How is this suspension setup? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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How is this suspension setup?

I'm still in the process of finalizing everything with getting my car sold/traded to order a 2012 JKUR manual and am looking at buying a lift for it to install the 1st week I've got it. This will be a 98% DD with mostly mud off-roading here in the south and I hope to hit up some rocks later on once I armor up and move. I'm looking for a great ride along with great off-road handling/flex/capabilities. Here are the plans, what do you guys/gals think, and is there anything I should omit/add?

-Rock Krawler X-Factor Mid Arm Lift w/ 2.5" springs
-Rock Krawler Bump Stop Relocation Brackets
-Synergy Rear Shock Relocation Brackets
-Nemesis Industries Front Shock Relocation Brackets
-Bilstein 5100 Shocks (ones for the 2.5" kit that RK recommends)

This will be to run 35x12.5s on a 17x9" wheel with 3.75" of BS at first until I upgrade to PSC tube fenders and I'll run 37x12.5s then.

What do y'all think?
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post #2 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 09:28 AM
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I think you'll love it!

I run the 3.5 X and its fantastic.

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post #3 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
I think you'll love it!

I run the 3.5 X and its fantastic.
How much welding was involved? I saw that there is a bracket that can be bolted on, but it's recommended to be welded. What did you do and how much is involved? I'd like to do the install myself, but I can't weld
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 10:01 AM
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If your talking about the rear track bar bracket it should be welded on IMO. It's not very hard to do if you know someone with a welder and about 10 min it can be done easily.
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 10:06 AM
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Are you talking about the Synergy upper or lower relocation brackets, or both, or in unison with the RK lower relocation brackets?

Regardless, especially since you plan on using the Nemesis front relocation brackets, you may want to do a little more research on which shock length to choose since all of these brackets change some geometry. I think you will need longer shocks than what RK normally recommends but I am just speculating.
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JH08JK View Post
If your talking about the rear track bar bracket it should be welded on IMO. It's not very hard to do if you know someone with a welder and about 10 min it can be done easily.
yep! thanks man
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post #7 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JH08JK View Post
If your talking about the rear track bar bracket it should be welded on IMO. It's not very hard to do if you know someone with a welder and about 10 min it can be done easily.
Correct, but it does bolt on. So you can bolt it on when you are doing your suspension and then have it welded on later.

I have actually not welded my rear track bar bracket yet. I have some slight contact with it and my rear driver shock that I need to work out first.

I did bolt and weld the front tract bar bracket that came with the RK steering kit. Solid as a rock.

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post #8 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Are you talking about the Synergy upper or lower relocation brackets, or both, or in unison with the RK lower relocation brackets?

Regardless, especially since you plan on using the Nemesis front relocation brackets, you may want to do a little more research on which shock length to choose since all of these brackets change some geometry. I think you will need longer shocks than what RK normally recommends but I am just speculating.
I'm looking at the fact that it pushes the shock mount 2" outboard and looking at the angle, it seems that the shock would have to be longer. Would you say the shocks for the 3.5" kit would be the way to go? I forgot the whole cos, sin, tan formula or I could figure out the difference in a longer shock to know what size haha
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanralston07 View Post
I'm looking at the fact that it pushes the shock mount 2" outboard and looking at the angle, it seems that the shock would have to be longer. Would you say the shocks for the 3.5" kit would be the way to go? I forgot the whole cos, sin, tan formula or I could figure out the difference in a longer shock to know what size haha
Which mounts move the shock 2" outboard and is this the rear? This may be something that could solve my shock/rear trackbar contact point.

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post #10 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanralston07 View Post
I'm looking at the fact that it pushes the shock mount 2" outboard
I'm assuming you mean outward not outboard.

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post #11 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 12:02 PM
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I'm assuming you mean outward not outboard.
No, I'm asking the OP about the mount that he says moves it "outboard" as in his post above mine.

But, I believe he means outward, in which case I mean outward...which is why I was asking

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post #12 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 12:31 PM
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post #13 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrahawk View Post
I'm assuming you mean outward not outboard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
No, I'm asking the OP about the mount that he says moves it "outboard" as in his post above mine.

But, I believe he means outward, in which case I mean outward...which is why I was asking
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Yes! Sorry, but I was looking and thinking about boats at the same time haha, please forgive me for my error.

So do y'all think I would be ok going with the shocks in the size that RK recommends for their 2.5" kit or the 3.5" kit? I'm thinking that I'd probably need straps for my springs to stay seated and limit droop if I went with shocks longer than what is necessary, or would it all be ok since the shock is moved outward?
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post #14 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 01:05 PM
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Ok lets see if I am as smart as a 5th grader (most likely not).

The Nemesis kit moves the shock out 2" and up .5".
You want 2.5" springs.

So A squared + B squared = C squared

A is my base which is now 2"

B is my hieght which is now 2" as well since we moved the mount up .5"

4 + 4 = C squared
C = 2.82....

So you new resting shock length is .32" longer than a shock in the stock location assuming the stock location is perfectly parallel to the spring.


After doing all that math, you should probably disregard everything and just do what Nemesis recommends:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis Industries View Post

The main features are that you can run longer and larger shocks...2" longer than manufacturer recommendations, and larger diameter (such as the King 2.5's)...so you can run shocks from the 4" kit with the 2" springs...or the 6" shocks with the 4" springs...etc.

This adds up to more downward travel, all while focusing the shocks stroke path in a way that avoids binding issues...preserving your shock investment and maximizing their effectiveness.



Also as for limiting straps, the RK kit has retaining clips for the front I believe.
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post #15 of 15 Old 02-23-2012, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Ok lets see if I am as smart as a 5th grader (most likely not).

The Nemesis kit moves the shock out 2" and up .5".
You want 2.5" springs.

So A squared + B squared = C squared

A is my base which is now 2"

B is my hieght which is now 2" as well since we moved the mount up .5"

4 + 4 = C squared
C = 2.82....

So you new resting shock length is .32" longer than a shock in the stock location assuming the stock location is perfectly parallel to the spring.


After doing all that math, you should probably disregard everything and just do what Nemesis recommends:




Also as for limiting straps, the RK kit has retaining clips for the front I believe.
Thanks! I can't believe that I missed that...
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