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post #1 of 39 Old 02-28-2009, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Axle Questions & Answers here....

Ok I am sorry for starting a new thread but I have searched all over the forum and the info seems to be scattered about all over the place and to be perfectly honest I am getting confused. I figured I would attempt to start a new thread where all the information on axles could be found in one place.


What different axle upgrade options are out there?
I have found Dana44 fronts rears military grade non military grade mopar non mopar and so much more....


What is the best setup for the front?

What is the best setup for the rear?

Where is the best place to get front and rear axles?

What type of cost are we talking about for the different setups?

Is the cost really worth the expense?

I am sure I will have more questions and I am sure that other members will have other questions as well. Please don't worry about thread stealing let’s just learn from each other’s questions and answers..
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post #2 of 39 Old 02-28-2009, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Nobody has anything???????????
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post #3 of 39 Old 02-28-2009, 07:52 PM
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I think the reason ther has not been an answer is those are hard questions to answer. Each of those questions are too generic. Fpor example, you asked if it is worth the expense...well, for some people it is worth it weight in gold, for others it would be a waste to upgrade the axles. "best" is an opion considering there is differnt benifits to each axle. "Best" axel can be different for differnt people. If you asked which axle is strongest or which was cheapest then you would get more replies. Maybe even, what is the strongest axle for $xx.xx budget.

There are axles that will never break under your JK, does not make them the best because then you have clearence issues. There are axles that could be pulled from other vehicles like a 14 bolt that would rock socks, but are you willing to do all that fab work? There are after market axles that are so hot that girls around town would jump in your rig, do you have an unlimited budget? For most people upgrading the D44's from a rubicon will be more then they ever need, for others, upgrading the d44 would be a waste of money and they should move straight to a d60

My point is, axles are usually about balance. YOu may have to give up a little to find what works best for you. Only you can reallty answer the "best" question because it has to do with your own balance of money, ability, time, driving style, end goals, etc.


I think the starting point is detirmining what the end goal of your vehicle build will be, tire size, engine mods, etc.. also decide what your budget is and how hard you plan on driving it. I think once you know those things you will have a starting point to decide on which axles are in that price range or what modifications can be done. for example..."I am putting in a hemi, I plan on running 42's, I bash the hell out of my rig jumping it off sand dunes Poly style, I have a budget of $8,000...what is the best axle set up". Or, "I trail run on weekends, occasionally I hit a 10 rated trail, I will run 37's on the v6 and worry about the axles. I only have $3000 to spend, what is the best axle setup?"

There is a ton of differnt axles and there is a billion ways to mod them. So there is so many ways to choose or build an axle that nobody can answer whats "best" for you. If you give us something to go off of we may be able to offer some tips and advice

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post #4 of 39 Old 03-01-2009, 12:31 PM
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X2 You're asking for a lot of opinions.

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post #5 of 39 Old 03-01-2009, 01:09 PM
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X2 You're asking for a lot of opinions.
Yep, I agree.

That's the whole purpose of forums, to see what people have to say. Some people state facts, some state opinions. Both are valid. The real trick is to reliably tell the difference between the two. Then you have to see how someones opinion fits in with the facts as you know them. Also, it helps to know the reputation of the person making a judgment.

So ask away. That's how we learn.

But it's just my opinion that we can learn from listening to EVERYONE. I like hearing opinions that differ from mine because it makes me think.

Now, after reading all that, what kind of abuse do you want to put this rig through?

IMHO, FWIW, YMMV, Etc.

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post #6 of 39 Old 03-02-2009, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the imput guys. I will not be rolling my truck upside down and all that. I am your average off roader I am not destroying my truck. I am leaning towards a Dana 44 front I just don't know where to get it what I should pay and if one is better then the other.
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post #7 of 39 Old 03-02-2009, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDog218 View Post
Thanks for the imput guys. I will not be rolling my truck upside down and all that. I am your average off roader I am not destroying my truck. I am leaning towards a Dana 44 front I just don't know where to get it what I should pay and if one is better then the other.
Why do you need a D44 front if you aren't doing any wheeling that would let you roll it over. I would say a little over kill.

DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH SHAFFERS OFFROAD. YOU WILL BE SORRY YOU DID..
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post #8 of 39 Old 03-02-2009, 11:11 AM
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i think I agree with igo.

The 30 is a pretty good axle.

Let me ask you this..

What type of wheeling specifically...are you out in the rocks, mud or more trail riding?

What size tires do you plan to run?

What gearing would you like to run?

plans for lockers?
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post #9 of 39 Old 03-03-2009, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I am going to a 6inch long arm and 38's. I run a lot of the Jeep Jamboree's. I mainly off road mud and trails. Some rocks but more mud and trails then rocks. I have an auto and I am going to 5:13's and a rear locker detroit tru lock I don't know about a front locker yet. I have been told it is nice but not sure if it is really needed or at least needed enough to justify the cost.
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post #10 of 39 Old 03-03-2009, 03:51 PM
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38's can be some heavy tires. I think I would say a front exle could be in the works as the 30 might be a little light for that application. YOu could probably get away with a 30 but since the thread was about upgrading axles I would say if you can find a cheap d44 from a rubicon you could dump a little money into it and be good but considering the cost you may be about the same cost going with a new d60 and be much better off!
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post #11 of 39 Old 03-03-2009, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so with that said does anyone know where to get one of the following Axles at a good price?

D44 Rubi axle
D44 Military spec axle
D60 axle

I am looking for complete ready to go bolt on application

Does anyone know if the military spec axle is worth the added cost?
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post #12 of 39 Old 03-03-2009, 07:07 PM
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you can get the D44 new for around $3000 (without brakes)

I would say if you are spending all that money then this may not be the best route because by the time you buy the axle, buy shafts, gussets, etc you may be close to a new d60. If you are spending this moeney to upgrade your d30 then I would only do it if you found a good deal on a used one to save some money

You can get te military grade d44 for about $4500

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52446_104_T.htm

I am not sure of the true differences but I do not belive it is a lot. Something like little thicker tubes, etc. I belive it is the same pinion. I feel like it is a waste as a builder part and you might as well save a few bucks and upgrade the standard d44 or spend a few more bucks and get a d60


So, in other words, if you are considering spending the money to ugrade with a new axle, you could spend the $3000 to buy a new d44 and spend another $1500 or so upgrading it and still have a d44. I say if you are spending that much you should spend another $500 and roll something like the rock jock

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CES...t.aspx?id=2996




I do not belive others like dynatrac or teraflex have a front yet


I like the tera 60's
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post #13 of 39 Old 03-03-2009, 07:18 PM
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There are a crap load of threads on here about axels and matching them to both your driving style/terrain/vehicle capabilities.

That said, I have read of bunch and formed my own "opinion" based on information provided by others. So, FWIW...here goes.

I have a rubicon, which means I have the luxury of D44 Front and Rear with lockers and a 4.1 Transfer Case. My jeep has the stock engine. Always will. It's a drive to the trail, drive home situation. I like trail riding and exploring, but will also tackle hill climbs and more challenging trails. I'm building it do run trails out west, but not to handle rock gardens just for the fun of it. I want it to get me there, get me over and get me home
I immediately put 35" on but will go to 37" next and maybe a 38 someday.

I believe I can make the JK Front D44 work if I mod it. So I'm adding C gussets, a sleeve kit, a truss, LCA skids, hard core axel shafts and upgrading my diff to 5.13 with a reputable brand.

It's alot of extra work to know that in the end, I'm pushing the axel. But I already have it. I also think this is a cheaper route than an D60. You can buy the JKD44 new from multiple shops and build it this way for probably cheaper than a D60. I think some companies are also building D44 which are much stronger than stock.

If I had the cash, I would get a D60 and forget about it. I don't, so you've heard my story. Read around. Folks that are really off-roading are breaking stuff, but that's why there are upgrades.

so, fwiw...

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post #14 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Good info guys thanks. I work for a dealership in the sales dept. My parts manager will get me the Dana44 which I would upgrade to 5:13's Sleeve it and C gussets he will charge me 2500 for that axle and I will do the mods myself. OR He will get me the Military Dana44 which comes with the bigger brakes etc. I will still have to upgrade the gears to 5:13's and the military axle I do not believe is Locked where the regular one I think is for 3700. I guess the big question now is which is the better way to go? Is the military axle worth the added expense?
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post #15 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDog218 View Post
Good info guys thanks. I work for a dealership in the sales dept. My parts manager will get me the Dana44 which I would upgrade to 5:13's Sleeve it and C gussets he will charge me 2500 for that axle and I will do the mods myself. OR He will get me the Military Dana44 which comes with the bigger brakes etc. I will still have to upgrade the gears to 5:13's and the military axle I do not believe is Locked where the regular one I think is for 3700. I guess the big question now is which is the better way to go? Is the military axle worth the added expense?
My 2 cents.. For the kind of trails and tire you are going to do, I would at minimum do the factory D44 w/locker, do Chrome Moly axles, C-Gussets, and some spine bracing.

Or stick with a 35" tire..or at the very bleeding edge, a light 37" tire, and build the crap out of your D30, and wheel it!

See here for a built D30.. it is just sic!
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6776

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post #16 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well without question I am going to a 44 with locker just don't know if the military spec axle is worth the added cost?
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post #17 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDog218 View Post
Well without question I am going to a 44 with locker just don't know if the military spec axle is worth the added cost?
Only thing I see as a strong point in the military spec is the 25% thicker tube wall... other than that... nuttin makes me want it over the factory locker. Add a spine brace to the regular 44 and wheel it.

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post #18 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks that helps a lot. I just want to wheel this thing it has been awhile now so should hit the shop in a 2 to 3 weeks then game time.
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post #19 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TheDog218 View Post
Thanks that helps a lot. I just want to wheel this thing it has been awhile now so should hit the shop in a 2 to 3 weeks then game time.
Just for some perspective... I ran my Rubi D44 on heavy ass 37" Nitto Mud Grapplers and I wheeled it in basically the same kind of terrain you described..
By no means do I baby it.. at all.

Only carnage I had concerning the D44 was a broken outer axle caused by a failed u-joint which broke the ear off. I have since replaced with alloy axles and new joints.. no problems at all... I have since sold the D44 and went to a Currie D60 and will be running 40's.

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post #20 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
My 2 cents.. For the kind of trails and tire you are going to do, I would at minimum do the factory D44 w/locker, do Chrome Moly axles, C-Gussets, and some spine bracing.
I agree that building the d44 would be the best way to go...that is if you already had one.

The point of my ramble earlier is this though. If you get the axle for $2500 then you dump another $1500 into it for shafts, ujoints, gussets, sleeves, etc. Then that puts you at $4000.

If that is the limit of your budget then do it and that will be plenty of axle for your plans

I just say if you are coughing up $4k for an axle upgrade, I would do $5k and do it right.
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post #21 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WTF_LOL View Post
I agree that building the d44 would be the best way to go...that is if you already had one.

The point of my ramble earlier is this though. If you get the axle for $2500 then you dump another $1500 into it for shafts, ujoints, gussets, sleeves, etc. Then that puts you at $4000.

If that is the limit of your budget then do it and that will be plenty of axle for your plans

I just say if you are coughing up $4k for an axle upgrade, I would do $5k and do it right.
Ahhh I see your point and well put... but, when you get the 60 you are gonna spend crazy shat on C/M axles as well... why wouldn't you... LOL!

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post #22 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 05:55 PM
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I am pretty sure you just don't want him to get the 60 so you can be king poop with the badarse axle on here
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post #23 of 39 Old 03-04-2009, 10:04 PM
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I am pretty sure you just don't want him to get the 60 so you can be king poop with the badarse axle on here
Man you got me...


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post #24 of 39 Old 03-05-2009, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by WTF_LOL View Post
I agree that building the d44 would be the best way to go...that is if you already had one.

The point of my ramble earlier is this though. If you get the axle for $2500 then you dump another $1500 into it for shafts, ujoints, gussets, sleeves, etc. Then that puts you at $4000.

If that is the limit of your budget then do it and that will be plenty of axle for your plans

I just say if you are coughing up $4k for an axle upgrade, I would do $5k and do it right.
Let's sharpen the pencil a little. Do these numbers look about right(I rounded for simplicity)?
- $2,500 Axel
- $ 750 TenFactory (Axel Shaft Assembled)
- $ 150 Sleeve Kit (self installed)
- $1,300 5.13 Gears Installed
- $ 110 C-Gussets & LCA Skids (self installed)
_________
$4,860 Total



To compare, info pulled from the Currie Web Site:
JK ROCKJOCK® III FRONTEND UNIT - BOLT IN
Part #: JK-RJIIIF
Our Price:
$4,999.95
Additional parts needed to complete this unit are a high pinion Dana 60 ring and pinion gear set, Dana 60 35 spline carrier of your choice, and a bearing & set up kit. Assembly labor of this unit is included in the price!

I didn't see a price for R&P, Carrier or bearing&set up kit, but just add that to the top.


So, did I cover all the costs correctly? Now what does everyone think?

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post #25 of 39 Old 03-05-2009, 10:37 AM
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Oh, I must have miss read, I thought that unit there came with the gears and carrier. I just read it so yah, looks like you will need to add another between $1k and 1.5k to that price. Nice thing is you get a quite a bit of extras for that money

Wish there was some more options available for fronts.

Does anybody know what d60 options are available at this point?

Quote:
Mfg: JK-RJIIIF
Our Price: $4,999.95

Description: The RockJock® III high pinion frontend assembly for the 2007 and up Jeep JK includes the complete housing featuring the 65-45-12 ductile iron housing center (highest ground clearance 60 on the market), AR400 heat treated bottom skid plate allowing the axle to slide over rocks easily, 3" d.o.m. steel tubes, 1 ton inner knuckles, 5/16" thick heavy steel diff cover, yoke (1310/1330/1350 optional), and all new heavy duty Currie Jeep JK suspension brackets mounted with Johnny Joint® equipped upper control arm mounts for maximum articulation. Axles shafts are the Currie performance 4340 35 spline inner and outer with Spicer 1480 u-joints. Outer assemblies include 1 ton outer knuckles featuring Currie upper steering arm and ball joints installed, Currie exclusive 1 ton unit bearings with 5 on 5 1/2" wheel bolt pattern and JK tone rings allowing for ABS and ESP retention, 13" vented rotors (over 1" greater diameter than stock for increased braking), zinc plated caliper brackets that retain the stock JK front calipers, Currie drive flanges or Warn premium manual locking hubs, and our heavy duty 1 1/4" o.d. 4130 chrome moly tie rod with tie rod ends. Additional parts needed to complete this unit are a high pinion Dana 60 ring and pinion gear set, Dana 60 35 spline carrier of your choice, and a bearing & set up kit. Assembly labor of this unit is included in the price!
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