Steering arm brace problem WTF - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 25 Old 01-09-2012, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews
Steering arm brace problem WTF

May have to replace my steering box because of this dam thing! All I was doing was installing a new track bar and the slick steering arm brace. The brace sounded like a good idea because of all the Steering box problems I have seen on-line. Now I have a major problem.

This is what I was trying to install:


The nut/bearing surface in the left of the picture is what I am having problems with.

While trying to install the Rock Solid steering arm brace I start installing the new nut/bearing surface, it screws on about half way and gets a little tight, I think no big deal and try and get past the tight spot with the wrench, it will not turn so I try and back it off and inspect it and it will not back off either. The nut is stuck half on, broke a 1/2in extension trying to get it to unscrew and nothing, like its welded on! Next, I go get a 1 3/8” impact socket thinking it should be able to take it off, of course this does not work either. I think the impact will not work because the whole assembly can move so the impact really is not having the ability to do its job. At this point I think the only option is to pull the steering box and put the pitman arm in a big ass vice to see if the impact can take it off while the steering shaft is not able to move. Really worried at this point that the threads on the shaft will be messed up when/if I ever get this dam nut off causing me to purchase a whole new steering box for $720.

I called Rock Solid and they did say they had one other problem with the nut not being tapped properly before but not to the extent I am seeing, they are sending me a new one. I would be happy just to be able to get the stock nut back on so I could drive the Jeep. I just can’t understand how this thing is so stuck on there, never seen anything like it, I used little to no force putting it on to the point it is and then BAM, stuck like its welded on. It is not cross threaded either, that would have been evident right after starting it on such a large nut I would not have gotten 1 thread engaged. Anybody seen something like this before?

Does anybody have any tips for taking the steering box out? It looks like I need to remove the coil spring to get at one of the bolts? Other than that it just looks like I just have to remove the drag link, the coolant overflow tank, power steering lines, and disconnect the steering linkage. Is this correct? Any gotchas I need to know about?

This whole thing is about to drive me insane, should have been a simple upgrade and turning out to be a nightmare.

Thank You in advance for any advice you can give me.
moparmad74 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 25 Old 01-09-2012, 07:19 PM
Rock God
 
20JK10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Posts: 546
Feedback: 0 reviews

I can't help you with the removal. But it is known that some trackbars don't clear that brace.

Wrangler Mountain Edition

Rock KrawlerSynergyJKSLoDGoodyear
20JK10 is offline  
post #3 of 25 Old 01-09-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by 20JK10 View Post
I can't help you with the removal. But it is known that some trackbars don't clear that brace.
I Got RockSolid trackbar with it so I expect it will clear fine. But with the way my luck is going so far I should expect it to mess something completely unrelated up though.
moparmad74 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 25 Old 01-09-2012, 08:18 PM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 20
Feedback: 0 reviews

Get a bigger/stronger impact
Turn the steering all the way so the impact can work better
If they in fact sent you a bad nut
They should replace the steering box
If the nut caused any damage

Remove the nut do not try and tighten it up any more
The threads still may be good further
Up where it needs to tighten up on



Sent from my iPhone
OutlawJK is offline  
post #5 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:08 AM
JKO Addict!
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Leon, Texas
Posts: 2,722
Feedback: 7 reviews
Send a message via Yahoo to rob4607

They should,at the least send you a die to chase the threads with.

2008 JK 4Dr Rubicon
Stone white
Mygig W/Uconnect working.
Hard top/Auto tranny
First mod, dog slobber.
Painted hard top
Spidertraxx 1.5 spacers
Teraflex 3" lift
Currie front lower control arms
JKS front and rear adj. track bars
Euroefx HID kit, high/low beam and fogs
Shrockworks rear full width, tire carrier

Post count from the "other" place when i was following the "herd" was 692 on 4-2-09, not a noob...

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rob4607 is offline  
post #6 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawJK View Post
Get a bigger/stronger impact
Turn the steering all the way so the impact can work better
If they in fact sent you a bad nut
They should replace the steering box
If the nut caused any damage

Remove the nut do not try and tighten it up any more
The threads still may be good further
Up where it needs to tighten up on

Thanks for the ideas but I already tried turning the wheel all the way and there is still to much play I think. Already used the largest impact I have that should either take the nut off or destroy things in the process. I think my only move now is to take the box out and get the pitman arm in a strong vice so it can't move at all. Then something is going to give.

This is the impact I was using and it just fits up there, can't go any bigger with the box still in the jeep.

moparmad74 is offline  
post #7 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:24 AM
Rock God
 
UGET IT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Folsom Ca.
Posts: 752
Garage
Feedback: 1 reviews

Jeez........seems like it cross threaded...and badly.

Method Motorsports


Email:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
UGET IT is offline  
post #8 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by UGET IT View Post
Jeez........seems like it cross threaded...and badly.
Its not cross threaded, it went on halfway without an issue then just locked up. Very strange, I have never seen anything like this happen before. Tonight I am pulling the box and will bring it in to work with me. The nut will come off, even if I have to pull out the Jack Hammer sized impact, something will give way.

I may slit one side of the nut with a grinder almost down to the threads, that should let it have a little give.
moparmad74 is offline  
post #9 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:52 AM
JKO Addict!
 
fourplyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Littleton, Colorado
Age: 46
Posts: 3,349
Feedback: 1 reviews

If you do take the steering box off. After putting it in a vice, how bout heating the nut up with a small torch..and trying to break it free. Maybe it will expand the nut enough.

Just a thought. Sounds like a bugger of a nut you got there.

Current project jeep 08' wrangler 2dr
Past jeep:
- 07' Rubicon 4 dr, RAMICON- 3.5" ROCK KRAWLER Coil-Over lift
- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fourplyn is offline  
post #10 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:54 AM
JKO Addict!
 
SoK66's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Four Corners
Posts: 4,128
Feedback: 2 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by moparmad74 View Post
I may slit one side of the nut with a grinder almost down to the threads, that should let it have a little give.
If you can get an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel in there you may be able to do this on the rig. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel might work of space won't permit use of an angle grinder.
SoK66 is offline  
post #11 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by SoK66 View Post
If you can get an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel in there you may be able to do this on the rig. A Dremel with a cut-off wheel might work of space won't permit use of an angle grinder.
Good point, I don't think I can get the angle grinder in there but a dremel would fit. It may take a very long time with a dremel though. I'll give it a shot and see if I can make any progress with the dremel before pulling the box.

Thanks!
moparmad74 is offline  
post #12 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by fourplyn View Post
If you do take the steering box off. After putting it in a vice, how bout heating the nut up with a small torch..and trying to break it free. Maybe it will expand the nut enough.

Just a thought. Sounds like a bugger of a nut you got there.
That is one of the first things I will try if I pull the Box.

Thanks,
moparmad74 is offline  
post #13 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 08:58 AM
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews

I'm not sure removing the steering box is going to help you much, as you should be able to apply plenty of torque where it is. Definitely sounds like it is galled. I'd step up to a 3/4" drive socket and a 36" or 40" breaker bar. You can also try getting some penetrating oil in there also, sometimes you can tighten it very slightly to help the oil get in, then switch between loosen/tighten often, this works well with a high torque impact.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
PhilD is offline  
post #14 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 09:27 AM
Granite Guru
 
Redjk07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pinckneyville, IL
Posts: 185
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

It looks like you have an adaptor on the impact gun, sometimes that can take away some power to the socket from the impact gun. I know I have used an extension on the socket and gun and then took the extension off and got some more power to the socket. But I would agree if you can get some heat on it and heat the nut up, but becarefull not to get it too hot to damage the seal on your box. Good luck but I have been looking at that brace too but talk my self out of it.
Redjk07 is offline  
post #15 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
I'm not sure removing the steering box is going to help you much, as you should be able to apply plenty of torque where it is. Definitely sounds like it is galled. I'd step up to a 3/4" drive socket and a 36" or 40" breaker bar. You can also try getting some penetrating oil in there also, sometimes you can tighten it very slightly to help the oil get in, then switch between loosen/tighten often, this works well with a high torque impact.

When I tried with a 1/2" drive the extension snapped like a twig using a 36" breaker bar. Problem is, I have to have such a long extension on it to get down to a point that a breaker bar can be used. It takes about 14" to get in good place to use one. Finding 3/4" extensions locally may be tricky as well, and costly if they snap on me.

Certainly putting that in the bag to tricks though. I really hate that I may have to pull the box and don't want to do it.

Thanks,
moparmad74 is offline  
post #16 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redjk07 View Post
It looks like you have an adaptor on the impact gun, sometimes that can take away some power to the socket from the impact gun. I know I have used an extension on the socket and gun and then took the extension off and got some more power to the socket. But I would agree if you can get some heat on it and heat the nut up, but becarefull not to get it too hot to damage the seal on your box. Good luck but I have been looking at that brace too but talk my self out of it.
If I could find a 3/4" drive socket 1 3/8" true deep well I would use it but all the ones I find don't have the 6 point going deep into the well. They have the nut stop on them not letting them go over the bearing surface. All I could find was a axle hub socket that worked and they seem to only be in 1/2" drive so I had to use the adapter.

That impact puts out 1700 ft/lbs, I think it has to be all the joints before there is a solid stop letting it move ever so slightly and not breaking loose using the impact?

Thanks for the info.
moparmad74 is offline  
post #17 of 25 Old 01-10-2012, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
I'm not sure removing the steering box is going to help you much, as you should be able to apply plenty of torque where it is. Definitely sounds like it is galled. I'd step up to a 3/4" drive socket and a 36" or 40" breaker bar. You can also try getting some penetrating oil in there also, sometimes you can tighten it very slightly to help the oil get in, then switch between loosen/tighten often, this works well with a high torque impact.

PhilD, You Win the prize!!!! I'd buy you a beer or 12 if you lived near by! I got the dam thing off using the following tools. Kind of back to basics like PhilD suggested.

3/4" Drive breaker bar, 3/4" x 16" extension with a long piece of pipe and was able to find a 3/4" drive 1 3/8" true deep well socket thanks to Farmers Market. Using the a torch and a grinder it finally came loose.

If this ever happens to you this is all you need:


It really messed up the threads on the shaft for about 1/4" and I ended up having to grind the end of the shaft off to get to good threads. The nut still fully engages so I think I'm safe there. Put everything back together (without the steering shaft brace) and took it for a drive...

Glad this is fixed, next weekend I start the ProRock44 install, re-gear, lockers front and back, track bars and control arms. Going to be a fun couple weeks!

Thanks to everyone who made suggestions on how to get this resolved. What a great place, and not one person gave me the duel your number one smiley I see so often around here. May have just set myself up for one huh.
moparmad74 is offline  
post #18 of 25 Old 02-06-2012, 03:02 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Age: 38
Posts: 314
Feedback: 3 reviews

Ug! I am in the same exact situation as you were. And I dont have access to the tools you used to remove it. FML.
remborsky is offline  
post #19 of 25 Old 02-06-2012, 03:45 PM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Age: 35
Posts: 1
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by remborsky View Post
Ug! I am in the same exact situation as you were. And I dont have access to the tools you used to remove it. FML.
Is it the same company?
Jtwilliams is offline  
post #20 of 25 Old 02-06-2012, 05:35 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Age: 38
Posts: 314
Feedback: 3 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jtwilliams View Post
Is it the same company?
Yep. Just got it off but the replacement bearing nut is toast. Also have to try to file threads or cut messed up ones off.
remborsky is offline  
post #21 of 25 Old 02-06-2012, 05:43 PM
JKO Addict!
 
venom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: East of Abilene, TX
Posts: 6,381
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews
Send a message via Skype™ to venom

mine went right on with my fingers and tightened it with a 3/4" drive ratchet/breaker bar
leave the lock washer off to try to thread the nut on by hand, if it doesn't go, figure out if its gunked threads or tapped wrong.
If it goes, then put the washer back on and have at it with the torque monster tool of your choice!

seriously guys - try to thread them by hand BEFORE just going apeshit with an impact or a breaker bar!


now the little impossible to install inside bolt was a different story.....

I started to drill out the threads and put a nut on the back since theres clearance for a nut and it would make life a LOT easier, but I had an allen head replacement bolt and ball tipped allen wrenches to get it started.

If you don't have a wobble socket, its pretty much impossible to install the provided bolt.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by My Wife
I might just go crazy and kill you in your sleep, instead of just planning it.
venom is offline  
post #22 of 25 Old 02-08-2012, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by remborsky View Post
Yep. Just got it off but the replacement bearing nut is toast. Also have to try to file threads or cut messed up ones off.
I used the angle grinder to "Carefully" grind down the treads and get to good ones, it was a pain in the ass but slow and steady it did the job. When I put mine on it when on fine with my fingers and about 2-3 turns in just got stuck and would not go on or off.

I am finding out now that all this trouble was for nothing as I just installed a prorock44 in the front and the Rocksolid track bar will not clear it so I had to put my stock one back on only to find out the stock one will not clear the steering arm brace during flex so I have to remove that until I find a adjustable track bar that will work with the RS brace or remove the brace forever.

Anybody want to buy a trackbar?
moparmad74 is offline  
post #23 of 25 Old 02-08-2012, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 40
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by venom View Post
seriously guys - try to thread them by hand BEFORE just going apeshit with an impact or a breaker bar!


If you don't have a wobble socket, its pretty much impossible to install the provided bolt.
The treads in the middle of the nut were messed up, not the end so it started to screw on fine then locked up. This is the third one I know of as of now, Rocksolid told me they saw the problem before on another nut.

FYI, The little inside bolt was no problem with a wobble extension.
moparmad74 is offline  
post #24 of 25 Old 02-10-2012, 12:14 AM
JKO Addict!
 
venom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: East of Abilene, TX
Posts: 6,381
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews
Send a message via Skype™ to venom

Thats why you take the lock washer off and run it all the way on with your fingers first to test the threads.
if it runs all the way on without the lock washer, you have threaded it on farther than it will go with the washer, so you know its good.

Take it back off, put the washer on and torque it down.

its not that hard to check it beforehand is all I'm sayin.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by My Wife
I might just go crazy and kill you in your sleep, instead of just planning it.
venom is offline  
post #25 of 25 Old 05-09-2012, 09:49 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 131
Feedback: 0 reviews

My Rock Solid Steering Box Brace Nut will just start and locks up...tried one round with a wrench...no go!...backed it off...put on stock nut no problems!...screw the Rock Solid Nut...emailed them...will have another overnighted to me tomorrow...

Also tried Rock Solid Nut upside down to see if the threads were better/correct size...no go!...

And these guys are building LS1 Jeeps for folks?...wheres the QAQC?...Why wouldn't they check the fit on the nuts/bearings prior to shipping? Also just after having the problems with two other folks?

Somebody is cutting these threads with a lathe and not getting it set up right...

Last edited by LTZ470; 05-09-2012 at 09:55 PM.
LTZ470 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome