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post #1 of 19 Old 01-07-2012, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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RK control arms

I think I have seen a thread where it's OK to drill out the 14mm ends for 9/16 shouldered bolts. Is this still OK for the lifetime RK warrenty?

I have an RK 3.5" lift on the way from Marcus, and I'm a little conerneced about the factory 14mm non-shouldered bolts. Does RK ream their ends for 9/16 by request, or am I to do this myself?

I don't yet have a drill press. Could I do this successfully with a hand-held? I really don't want my control arms ends wallowing out, and I'm a bit concerned. Any advice would be much appreciated.
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post #2 of 19 Old 01-07-2012, 09:28 PM
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In all honesty, I'm sure you will get some answers on here and there is a ton of great info, knowledgeable, and reputable people. But if it's a warranty concern, I would definitely verify any info posted with RK directly just to be sure CYA.

I have called RK on several occasions for tech info when my lift was being installed. They have some great customer service and tech support.

Sorry can't help with your question

I finally ditched that "other" forum
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post #3 of 19 Old 01-07-2012, 11:05 PM
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Good advice above. Call RK on Monday or PM them to see what they think about that mod.

If I had the parts on the bench I would for sure mod them so that the 9/16 shoulder bolts would work. But when my install was done, allmost 3 years ago, we didn't know about the factory bolts issue. Anyway, last year we had one of my front arms off to inspect a bushing (it was fine) and the bolt had not caused any damage so for now I'm not concerned about it. Next fall I'll probably have all the arms removed so I can service the hard joints and replace rubber bushings. I'll address it them. Just my .02 worth

Oh, and let us know what RK has to say about providing ends for 9/16 upon request....

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Last edited by TEXASKEV; 01-07-2012 at 11:07 PM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-08-2012, 12:00 AM
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https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65739

95% sure RK said they would still warranty their arms if you drilled them out a little. Thought it was the above thread but didnt see it there. A quick call or PM to them should get you a definite answer.
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post #5 of 19 Old 01-08-2012, 01:09 AM
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I think you'll find Rock Krawlers stand on the 9/16 bolts interesting in comparison.

There is a ton of engineering in their system and I personally would just run it as expected by them.

Talk to Chris or Jeremy on Monday and let us know what they say!

Marcus


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post #6 of 19 Old 01-09-2012, 09:42 AM
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I did mine to 9/16 for uniformity and ease of replacement parts. I used one of these in a hand held drill while under the jeep.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...S_010=333-5092
make sure your drill has a clutch, set it medium so it will slip, set the speed to SLOW!!!!! and use lots of cutting oil (or motor oil). or you can do it by hand, your call.

Clamp the other side of the joint with something to keep it from spinning and go to town.


It took me like a saturday to do all of them and while at it rotate tires and grease everything.
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post #7 of 19 Old 01-13-2012, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the late reply. I was out of town on business.

I talked to Chris at RK, and he believes that it's probably not worth the effort for 9/16" shouldered bolts.

He says all of the RK builds are stock bolts or 14mm.

Just a head's-up for those considering their options.

Kevin
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post #8 of 19 Old 01-13-2012, 04:55 PM
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You can go ahead and drill out the Krawler Joint ball to 9/16. Just make sure to keep the ball cool so you do not cook the lubricant inside or the race ways. That would stink.

The biggest thing with the factory hardware is typically the failure of the locking feature of the OEM nut. It is a mechanical locking feature and when it is threaded on and off too many times, it failes. Thus, it will no longer work! Please keep that in mind.

RK
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-13-2012, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
You can go ahead and drill out the Krawler Joint ball to 9/16. Just make sure to keep the ball cool so you do not cook the lubricant inside or the race ways. That would stink.

The biggest thing with the factory hardware is typically the failure of the locking feature of the OEM nut. It is a mechanical locking feature and when it is threaded on and off too many times, it failes. Thus, it will no longer work! Please keep that in mind.

RK
Thanks RK!!

So what is our best option if we want to change out the stock hardware?

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post #10 of 19 Old 01-13-2012, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
Thanks RK!!

So what is our best option if we want to change out the stock hardware?
Been hearing great things about this:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-28601.html

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post #11 of 19 Old 01-13-2012, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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RK,

Just so I understand this correctly...

-I can drill out to 9/16, but it's not really an issue, and should be good with OEM/14mm non-shouldered bolts. As long as they remain tight, I shouldn't wallow anything out.

-The main issue is making sure I have a 'good' locking nut on the fastener, whether it be gently-used OEM with loctite, or a new locking nut.

Am I understanding this correctly?

Also, my lift hasn't shipped yet; do you do 9/16 ends per request, or is this a non-issue per my points above?

Thank you,

Kevin
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post #12 of 19 Old 01-14-2012, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axsys View Post
Been hearing great things about this:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-28601.html
Save yourself some money. I've received bags of hardware from Poly that still have the Fastenal logo on them. Go directly to your local Fastenal or other hardware supplier and buy them direct. Cost me $30 vs $65 plus shipping.

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post #13 of 19 Old 01-14-2012, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubCultureNM View Post
Save yourself some money. I've received bags of hardware from Poly that still have the Fastenal logo on them. Go directly to your local Fastenal or other hardware supplier and buy them direct. Cost me $30 vs $65 plus shipping.
Good Call!

You are correct, as long as they stay tight, wether you use 14mm or 9/16, you should be fine! The key is getting them tight and keeping them tight! We have had to replace the OEM lock nut with a washer and new lock nut on alot of vehicles we have built here! If the OEM nut spins back on really easy, trash it and get a new one with a locking feature! Make sure to add a washer as well since the aftermarket locking nuts will more than likely not have a flange on them... That is just our opinion and how we do it.;

RK
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-14-2012, 03:25 PM
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You can also get 14mm shouldered bolts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRDrill View Post
Sorry for the late reply. I was out of town on business.

I talked to Chris at RK, and he believes that it's probably not worth the effort for 9/16" shouldered bolts.

He says all of the RK builds are stock bolts or 14mm.

Just a head's-up for those considering their options.

Kevin
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post #15 of 19 Old 01-16-2012, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinner View Post
You can also get 14mm shouldered bolts?
I was referring to the stock, or stock-like non-shouldered bolts.
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post #16 of 19 Old 01-17-2012, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usmcdoc14 View Post
I did mine to 9/16 for uniformity and ease of replacement parts. I used one of these in a hand held drill while under the jeep.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...S_010=333-5092
make sure your drill has a clutch, set it medium so it will slip, set the speed to SLOW!!!!! and use lots of cutting oil (or motor oil). or you can do it by hand, your call.

Clamp the other side of the joint with something to keep it from spinning and go to town.


It took me like a saturday to do all of them and while at it rotate tires and grease everything.
How difficult is that to do by hand?

Or is it better and easier with a drill? Did you take the CA off the jeep to do it?

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post #17 of 19 Old 10-11-2012, 05:23 PM
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Just a heads up to those that may do this. I drilled mine to 9/16's and the centers gave in when I torqued them down to 125ft lbs. I ordered new centers from RK and will end up buying 14mm replacement bolts grade 12. Grade 8 14mm bolts have a max torque of 101. Grade 12 is 150 ish.



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post #18 of 19 Old 10-12-2012, 08:14 AM
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Just so you guys know, it is not a concern of wether or not the shoulder of the bolt is that snug to the bore of the joint! You are talking about 14mm or .551" as compared to 9/16" or .563". The factory hardware is fine as long as the locking mechanism of the OEM hardware is in tact. That is typically what fails on consumers. The mechanical locking mechanism wears out from the nut coming on and off too many times. A simple thing to do is replace the nut with a new mechanical lock nut of choice. We like Nyloks for simplicity.

We still warranty the balls if people drilled them out, but we try to educate people as to what is really going on so they can help educate others. Our balls are a tight fit to 14mm hardware and so 9/16 will not fit. We do offer 5/8 ball centers for people requesting them as well.

RK
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post #19 of 19 Old 10-12-2012, 10:28 AM
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What I had happen was that the stock bolts had enough clearance inside the joints that the latter could shiftfore & aft, eventually moving the bolts. The threads hogged out the several of the brackets on both sides, and took a toll on the mounting holes in the flex joint balls. The nuts never came loose. The 9/16"s upgrade on all of the lower 14mm joints and the track bars solved all that. Nothing ever shifts and there's been no further issues with the bracket wear.

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