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post #1 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Gear oil question

So I changed my gear oil at 31k and now at 38500 I changed it again and it was BLACK.... Is that supposed to happen? I thought it was good for 30k.... But the dlr told me it was black when they changed my oil....


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-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

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post #2 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 02:33 PM
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You changed it yourself and it was black? It should be good for 60k of fleet/taxi/ offroad unless you get water in it.

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post #3 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah changed it myself both times! Should I be taking the housing off and cleaning the gears? Well now I have $50 worth of royal purple in there so in 20k when I change the front should I clean the gears? Or should I be checking the color of the fluid periodically. And if I need to check the color what do I use? A q-tip?


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-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

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post #4 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Keep in mind I have 5.13's and 37's and I do a little mud off roading!


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-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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post #5 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 04:19 PM
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What brand of gears are in there?
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post #6 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SoK66 View Post
What brand of gears are in there?
Superior 5.13.... Been installed since 19500 miles


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-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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post #7 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 06:00 PM
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I have Superiors as well. Seems some of them tend to shed more material than some of the other brands. Assuming you've got the right oil in there just change it out a couple more times & see what they do. May be trouble brewing if they weren't set up right.
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post #8 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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So what you think maybe run for another 1000 miles and then recheck?


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-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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post #9 of 50 Old 01-07-2012, 09:54 PM
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I'd go maybe 5k, unless you've got some thought that the back lash is excessive already. As I recall mine was rather nasty at the first change, but has been fairly clear since.
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post #10 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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The first time they were bad... Not the initial 500 mile change but when I changed them at 30k which would've been about 10k on the gears... So I guess 7k this time isn't too far off... I just don't want to open the diff and see my gears chewed up... Don't know why they would be but it was pretty damn black...


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-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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14 Bolt rear ARB w/ 5.38
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post #11 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 09:03 AM
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Couple of the guys in my group, as well as myself have noticed that royal purple doesn't seem to last to long in the Jeep. Every time I looked at mine it was black and since I seem to keep breaking carries Ive just started running the house brand from Oreilly's.
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post #12 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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hmmm well what is a good brand then that i would find a auto zone or advanced that is worth it! i always heard purple was the BEST.... but i want something to last longer then 7-10k miles...... especially at $21 a quart

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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14 Bolt rear ARB w/ 5.38
EVO Long Arm
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post #13 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
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Yeah changed it myself both times! Should I be taking the housing off and cleaning the gears? Well now I have $50 worth of royal purple in there so in 20k when I change the front should I clean the gears? Or should I be checking the color of the fluid periodically. And if I need to check the color what do I use? A q-tip?


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Taking the cover off and cleaning/inspecting should be done every time you change the gear oil. There is a good website about oil..... bobistheoilguy.com. Great explanations on differences between synthetic and dino oil......quite interesting website and alot of good info on all types of oils

Fwiw...royal purple is overrated and marketed very well
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post #14 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Fwiw...royal purple is overrated and marketed very well
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If thats the case then what are others using?

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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post #15 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 01:11 PM
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FWIW, I've noticed both my JKs have pretty dark oil. Even stock, the oil was very dark and it seemed to get this way with few miles. Then again, on all my vehicles I've ever changed the diff fluids, it's been pretty dark. I think it's the nature of the beast with diff oil.

I change mine fairly often though as there is lots of water here so I just use the dino oil from the local auto store. I always use name brand stuff, but never buy the fancy, ie expensive, stuff as it just gets changed out way too often. It's normally only 10 to 15k tops before mine gets changed.

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post #16 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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I found 75w-140 at walmart for 11.27 a quart.... worth it?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech...Quart/16795247

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

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post #17 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 07:49 PM
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I just bought some Valvoline at my local CarQuest for like 8 bucks a quart.

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post #18 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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I just bought some Valvoline at my local CarQuest for like 8 bucks a quart.
yeah but is it synthetic and is it 75w-90 or 75w-140? i use the 140 because it is recommended for offroad and heavy use.

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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post #19 of 50 Old 01-08-2012, 08:22 PM
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yeah but is it synthetic and is it 75w-90 or 75w-140? i use the 140 because it is recommended for offroad and heavy use.
It wasn't synthetic, but why run it? It won't provide any real benifit in a jeep. It's also been shown that dino oil will keep the gears running cooler than syn. Both were the same cost, but I actually put 75-90 in both my axles as it's winter here and will be changed out in the spring anyway because of all the water it'll see then.

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post #20 of 50 Old 01-09-2012, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm maybe I was ill informed then because when i initially looked to put gear oil in I was told nothing but synthetic 75-140.... Now after spending $60 more on three new bottles I want to spend less if it is going to be so frequent...


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-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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post #21 of 50 Old 01-09-2012, 02:36 PM
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The manual does specify synthetic. Syn generally does also have a longer service life and can improve mpg. However, tests have shown gears run cooler in dino, but this isn't likely much of a concern in our jeeps anyway as we aren't exactly pulling super heavy loads and such.

Basically, for me, I haven't seen much of a difference in mpg to justify the cost difference, especially considering it gets changed so often. It's getting changed due to possible contamination instead of the oil beyond its service life. I run syn in my engine and t-case and trans whenever it gets changed, but dino in the diffs because it gets changed far too often.

For what it's worth, I've spent my share of time in deep water and never did I have a noticable issue of water intrusion afterwards, but it's too costly to just hope for the best when I could spend 25 bucks and changed both axles fluids in the parking lot before heading home in about 20 minutes.

If I recall, the 75-140 is for the rear axle and the front is 75-90- or 80-90 or something like that. In the summer I will put the 75-140 in the rear, but I've never had an issue running the 75-90 or 80-90 in both in the winters either. Honestly, unless you're pulling trailers a bunch, you could likely run 80-90 year round, but I do my share of trailer pulling so I put the heavier oil in in the summer.

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post #22 of 50 Old 01-09-2012, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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hmm ill have to see.... i am big on pay more... get more.... so when i see purple power i think excellence....

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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post #23 of 50 Old 01-09-2012, 08:04 PM
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hmm ill have to see.... i am big on pay more... get more.... so when i see purple power i think excellence....
By that logic you should pay for race fuel then too. You'll see no real benifit, but it'll make you feel better.

Money does not always mean better, especially when you take it's intended use into play. Now if spending $60 2 or 3 time a year on diff changes instead of paying $20 gives you peace of mind, then go for it. But don't expect somehow things will automatically be better and your rig will be able to climb walls because of it either.

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post #24 of 50 Old 01-10-2012, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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ok so to sum up what we have accomplished.... but store brand non synthetic and itll be fine for the 7-10k i will be driving... offroad and towing.....? does non synthetic store brand come in 75w-140? i atleast want the weight to it

-Marc
2010 JKU -- 3.5" RE Lift -- EVO LCAs -- ARTEC Truss and TB mount -- 17" Procomp 7069 -- 37" Maxxis Treps -- Heated Trucklite Headlights -- Synergy Drag flip -- Synergy TR -- Synergy bj's-- EVO 1/4 Pounder -- EVO Tire Carrier -- 4 gal rotopax -- TF Third Row -- China AEV Snorkel

Coming up:
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14 Bolt rear ARB w/ 5.38
EVO Long Arm
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post #25 of 50 Old 01-10-2012, 10:25 AM
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I've found that dino gear oil tends to go black much quicker than syn. I run syn oil and it's still pretty clear after 30k miles or so.

However, just because the oil is black does not mean it is necessarily "bad". The only real way to know is to have an oil analysis done.

I'd take more notice of what is on the magnetic drain plug than the color of oil. I wipe the plug clean with a paper towel, put the towel to one side for a while so the oil soaks in to it. Then it is a lot easier to see what you are left with. Black dust is normal, shavings are not.

FWIW I have 125k on my Superior gears and the rears do whine a little on coast, but it's not getting noticeably worse so I don't worry about it. The only time I actually notice is with the hard top on.

I went off RP fluids for the diffs as they seemed to be noisier than other diff fluids. I've used M1, Amsoil, and Valvoline syn fluids and have been happy with all of them.

If you plan to change the fluid often then use dino, no point wasting money on syn. If you want to run it for longer then use syn. I used to be a proponent of running 75W140, but found that it doesn't really make much difference and the 75W90 seems to run a little cooler. If you tow or otherwise work the rear end hard then 75W140, otherwise 75W90.


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