Reverse triangulated 4 link - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 47 Old 01-04-2012, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Reverse triangulated 4 link

Has anyone tried this on a 4dr? Other than Rancho


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post #2 of 47 Old 01-04-2012, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THECHAD View Post
Has anyone tried this on a 4dr? Other than Rancho


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post #3 of 47 Old 01-04-2012, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Lol that's what I'm thinking


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post #4 of 47 Old 01-04-2012, 05:01 PM
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We tried a real Reverse Triangulated 4 Link Setup On our Victim if you want to check out the build thread on here!

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post #5 of 47 Old 01-04-2012, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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I see you sell one for the 2 door, but not the 4 door, why is that?


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post #6 of 47 Old 01-05-2012, 08:12 PM
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Because the 4DR sucks.

Runs and hides.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester116th View Post
Confucius say "If you no want break axle, Drive with BIG head not LITTLE head"
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post #7 of 47 Old 01-05-2012, 09:50 PM
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I have built 2 JK's with the rear triangulated 4-link. The first one was a silver 4 Door used by BFGoodrich in the 2008 Ultimate Adventure and the second was built for a customer. The rear has tons of anti squat so we changed how the links mounted on the 2nd one and it works perfectly. Rancho uses their flex bushing that really limits the amount of vertical travel of the center section in the rear suspension. I just barely modified a Rancho 3-link and put a heim joint in place of the Rancho bushing. I was able to get about 4" more down travel than I did with the stock rancho set up. I put limiter straps on the center section so the heim joint wouldn't bind. I had an additional 1.5" of down travel available at the wheel end when the axle was drooped all of the way out with the limiter straps tight.
you can see a picture of the modified rancho 3-Link here:
http://blogs.4wdandsportutility.com/...-jk/index.html
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post #8 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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cool thanks for the pic

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post #9 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 08:39 AM
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Hey, I like that shit!
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post #10 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 08:40 AM
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thats nutty...i Like it!


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post #11 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 08:48 AM
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What is the advantages of this over a regular triangulated 4 link?

-Scott S.-

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post #12 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScaleJK4x4 View Post
What is the advantages of this over a regular triangulated 4 link?
You dont have to relocate the gas tank.
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post #13 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 09:00 AM
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^ That just convinced me to put this down for a future mod.
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post #14 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
You dont have to relocate the gas tank.
That is DEFINETLY a plus, but which one is better (gemoetry wise)?

-Scott S.-

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post #15 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScaleJK4x4 View Post
That is DEFINETLY a plus, but which one is better (gemoetry wise)?
Im not expert and since you didnt specify "Experts Only" I will add my thought on it.

In my head, I cant figure out how this geometry is better because as the axles drops, the lower arms want to pull the axle forward while the reverse triangulated uppers want to pull the axle back so in my mind this design has to provide less droop than a normal triangulated four link design.
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post #16 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
You dont have to relocate the gas tank.
The gas tank would still have to be relocated.

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post #17 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Im not expert and since you didnt specify "Experts Only" I will add my thought on it.

In my head, I cant figure out how this geometry is better because as the axles drops, the lower arms want to pull the axle forward while the reverse triangulated uppers want to pull the axle back so in my mind this design has to provide less droop than a normal triangulated four link design.
If you are talking about the whole axle drooping then you are most probably right, but if you just look at flex, ie: one side drooping as the other is compressed then no. The reverse link is just a pivot point and what really restricts one side drooping now is the lower control arms and shock length. You should be able to get quite a lot of flex out of a system setup this way.

I've been going back and fourth between this and a triangulated four link, but as already mentioned you need to move that gas tank to do the four link, so this may be an easier way of achieving a similar result and getting rid of the track bar too.


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post #18 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redx08 View Post
The gas tank would still have to be relocated.
Not with reverse link like pictured above, no need to move the gas tank.


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post #19 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 10:35 AM
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If any of you plan to do the rear 4-link pm me and I will tell you what I learned so that you dont have to learn it for yourself and get it perfect the first time.
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post #20 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impulse Off Road View Post
I have built 2 JK's with the rear triangulated 4-link. The first one was a silver 4 Door used by BFGoodrich in the 2008 Ultimate Adventure and the second was built for a customer. The rear has tons of anti squat so we changed how the links mounted on the 2nd one and it works perfectly. Rancho uses their flex bushing that really limits the amount of vertical travel of the center section in the rear suspension. I just barely modified a Rancho 3-link and put a heim joint in place of the Rancho bushing. I was able to get about 4" more down travel than I did with the stock rancho set up. I put limiter straps on the center section so the heim joint wouldn't bind. I had an additional 1.5" of down travel available at the wheel end when the axle was drooped all of the way out with the limiter straps tight.
you can see a picture of the modified rancho 3-Link here:
http://blogs.4wdandsportutility.com/...-jk/index.html



John - Do you have any pics of the upper shock mounts on this rig?
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post #21 of 47 Old 01-06-2012, 01:06 PM
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Are those two suspension setups (triangulated and reverse tri...) any more stable in off camber situations than the regular 5 link? Or is that something completely different (dependent more on sway bars ect.)?



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-Scott S.-

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post #22 of 47 Old 02-21-2012, 07:00 AM
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With this set up could you move the front arm mount to the top of the axle to get some extra ground clearance?
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post #23 of 47 Old 02-21-2012, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
With this set up could you move the front arm mount to the top of the axle to get some extra ground clearance?
Not unless you have a mounting bracket outside the frame (like RockKrawler) as opposed to right under it.

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post #24 of 47 Old 02-21-2012, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrahawk View Post
Not unless you have a mounting bracket outside the frame (like RockKrawler) as opposed to right under it.
Maybe someone can educate me further on this thinking.

Because the rotational force exerted by the axle normally transfers through the lower control arm to the frame (like a traction bar), wouldn't mounting the lower control arm joint (bolt center) above the center of the axle cause that rotational force to instead pull on the lower control arm?

I have seen this mount on several JKs of late - I would think it is a mistake, but I am no suspension engineer either.
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post #25 of 47 Old 02-21-2012, 09:30 AM
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Craig brought up another good point, my comment on how that would effect the geometry was concentrated on frame clearance (at the frame LCA mounting bracket).

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