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post #1 of 16 Old 01-03-2012, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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The truth about sway bars

I just installed a 2.5" BB and it was suggested that I get longer sway bars in the back and discos in the front to make it ride better. I have no complaint about the current ride, but I am always looking for ways to improve it. My question is why would longer sway bars make it ride better? My plan is to eventually get longer shocks, to get rid of the shock extentions I am running, adjustable track bar and rear track relocation bracket, steering stabilizer, and maybe spacers. I do realize that all of this is not necessary, I just like to tinker with it. BTW, I have a 2010 unlimited, manual, if that makes a difference. Thanks for any comments or advice.

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post #2 of 16 Old 01-03-2012, 04:54 PM
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Its as simple as this… the sway bar is designed to run basically parallel to the ground. Longer drop links will accomplish this. But if it its just a little off I wouldn’t worry about it. And I doubt that a drop link that is a little too short would impact the ride enough to feel while driving.

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Last edited by TEXASKEV; 01-03-2012 at 04:56 PM.
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-03-2012, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXASKEV View Post
Its as simple as this… the sway bar is designed to run basically parallel to the ground.
This is what I thought when I made mine for the rear. I have a 4" lift and making it parallel was a no go! It'll rub on the rim/tire (If you have 17" rims with the stock offset). I had to shorten the links about 2". No biggie but, the rework pissed me off. I took the lazy way (assuming) which got me an extra hour of frozen finger tips. (Lesson learned)

Last edited by Jeepmods; 01-03-2012 at 05:04 PM.
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post #4 of 16 Old 01-03-2012, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deep Water Terp View Post
I just installed a 2.5" BB and it was suggested that I get longer sway bars in the back and discos in the front to make it ride better. I have no complaint about the current ride, but I am always looking for ways to improve it. My question is why would longer sway bars make it ride better? My plan is to eventually get longer shocks, to get rid of the shock extentions I am running, adjustable track bar and rear track relocation bracket, steering stabilizer, and maybe spacers. I do realize that all of this is not necessary, I just like to tinker with it. BTW, I have a 2010 unlimited, manual, if that makes a difference. Thanks for any comments or advice.
It is designed to function at near parallel to the ground. Think of it's range of motion, when it's drooped down (too short of links) there will be more energy transferred into the bushings than transferring motion (like it's supposed to).

Also aesthetically, too short of links just look "cheap" as well.

Too short of links on the front of a Rubicon will lead to bent end links.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepmods View Post
This is what I thought when I made mine for the rear. I have a 4" lift and making it parallel was a no go! It'll rub on the rim/tire (If you have 17" rims with the stock offset). I had to shorten the links about 2". No biggie but, the rework pissed me off. I took the lazy way (assuming) which got me an extra hour of frozen finger tips. (Lesson learned)
That's because most people run larger tires with 4" of lift (say minimum of 35s). Larger tires should certainly be accompanied by more backspacing. Either by different wheels or wheel spacers.

If you were running 35s or even larger with factory backspacing wheels, clearance problems should have definitely been expected.

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post #5 of 16 Old 01-03-2012, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
That's because most people run larger tires with 4" of lift (say minimum of 35s). Larger tires should certainly be accompanied by more backspacing. Either by different wheels or wheel spacers.

If you were running 35s or even larger with factory backspacing wheels, clearance problems should have definitely been expected.
With the 35's it rubbed on the outter lip portion of the rim... Not by much. It was one side or the other. If the sway bar was narrower by 1/2" there would be plenty of clearance...
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-03-2012, 10:24 PM
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The longer rear links can be mounted inboard so they don't rub on the tires even with stock rims.
The optimum position is parallel as already mentioned but only really affects lateral stability.

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post #7 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 05:59 AM
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This should explain how a sway bar works;

http://www.trailduty.com/temp/SwayBarGeometry.pdf


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post #8 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepmods View Post
With the 35's it rubbed on the outter lip portion of the rim... Not by much. It was one side or the other. If the sway bar was narrower by 1/2" there would be plenty of clearance...

Sounds like your axle was not centered.

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post #9 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
Sounds like your axle was not centered.
and if the links were hitting the rim they may have been on the wrong side of the bar.

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post #10 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
It is designed to function at near parallel to the ground. Think of it's range of motion, when it's drooped down (too short of links) there will be more energy transferred into the bushings than transferring motion (like it's supposed to).

Also aesthetically, too short of links just look "cheap" as well.

Too short of links on the front of a Rubicon will lead to bent end links.
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TCdawg View Post
Sounds like your axle was not centered.
Axle was centered. I want to say when I turned right it would barely rub on the right side and vice-versa. (It's been awhile)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
and if the links were hitting the rim they may have been on the wrong side of the bar.
They were on the side that they were supposed to be.
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
This should explain how a sway bar works;

http://www.trailduty.com/temp/SwayBarGeometry.pdf
That was very helpful!

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post #13 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 10:33 AM
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Remove the rear sway bar, problem solved, never look back! You will never notice the difference.

Here is a tip; unbolt your sway bar links. Zip tire the sway bar up so it doesn't flop around. Drive around for a few days and decide whether or not you want it based on the results.

Last edited by desert dog; 01-04-2012 at 10:36 AM.
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post #14 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 10:51 AM
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Im assuming youre talking about longer endlinks, not swaybars. Other then the already pointed out proper placement of the swaybar for best performance, longer endlinks are a necessity if youre planning on flexing off-road w/out removing the endlinks. A few trips ago on Dishpan w/someone running too short of endlinks resulted in the endlink & swaybar trapped at the tierod & no steering. Time spent unbolting & forcing it out, got us back on the trail.
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post #15 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
It is designed to function at near parallel to the ground. Think of it's range of motion.
A factory Currie Anti-Rock kit (and I have had many) usually requires modifying to allow it to capture it's full range of motion as articulated in the attached quote. Tires, rim offset, massive articulation, all change the equation and a users just need to modify the installation (arms setting relative to plane), link length, and sometimes: cutting, bending, adding length, and changing the axle side (sometimes the frame side) attachment points.

If you are limiting travel with an Anti-Rock, you are just simply not done installing/modifying it yet.

Here is a picture of my rear anti-rock install. The attachment point on the link arm was require to achieve full bump to bow string limit strap without binding:
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post #16 of 16 Old 01-04-2012, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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That is a bad-ass looking kit.

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