In the front, running a DRW front 60 (or AAM or whatever) with stock centered H1 double beadlocks equals standard fullsize rig width, which is a few inches wider than a JK and OK in my book. The wheels have 7" backspacing which negates the extra axle width over SRW.
If you run the stock H1 wheels on a SRW front axle you will need to hack the tie rod end mounting location off the knuckle and get custom steering arms depending on your steering setup. I have an old d44 with custom Wagoner Machine steering arms intended for just this purpose.
Chances are, the DRW rear axle is narrower than the DRW front, thus needing a spacer to even out the WMS.
Here's some good tech for you if you haven't seen it already.
I'd be happy installing either of the kingpin SRW front 60s I have on the ground but one's from a Chevy CUCV and the other's out of a Dodge 3/4 ton. I'd also be happy installing the CUCV 14b with Detroit or either of the 60 or the 80 rears I have on the ground, but they have no electronic ability at all in stock form.
Now, back to the topic- is there any way to get a junk yard AAM or 60 to play nicely with the JK electronics without a bunch of custom parts? Balljoints are fine.
If you don't have something constructive to add to this topic specifically, please refrain from posting in this thread.
I read where Ian at Extreme posted that he heard some guys have swapped axles with either larger or smaller tone rings into their rigs with no mods other than bracketry (and DS, which should be done on a lifted JK anyway). Anyone have any more info here? I really want this to be my long term wheeler but I will never be able to afford 4-10k on aftermarket axles. Thanks for your patience.