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post #1 of 36 Old 06-16-2011, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing front track bar.

Poly front track bar is on it's way. Looks easy enough to do in the drive way.

http://www.polyperformance.com/instr...s/PPM-8061.pdf

Figured I would rip the old one out and measure from hole to hole and set the new one there.

Anything to watch out for.... any tips...

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post #2 of 36 Old 06-16-2011, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr.RonGilbert View Post
Poly front track bar is on it's way. Looks easy enough to do in the drive way.

http://www.polyperformance.com/instr...s/PPM-8061.pdf

Figured I would rip the old one out and measure from hole to hole and set the new one there.

Anything to watch out for.... any tips...

make sure you torque both nuts when all four wheels are on the ground.

also, if the trackbar doesn't line up with the hole on either side have a buddy turn the wheel to get the bolt thru the hole.

125 ft lbs on the nuts and make sure to tighten them on the ground.


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post #3 of 36 Old 06-16-2011, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
make sure you torque both nuts when all four wheels are on the ground.

also, if the trackbar doesn't line up with the hole on either side have a buddy turn the wheel to get the bolt thru the hole.

125 ft lbs on the nuts and make sure to tighten them on the ground.
Thanks

I am going to have to find a torque wrench that goes that high... might see if Vatozone will let me use one.

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post #4 of 36 Old 06-16-2011, 07:52 PM
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make sure you torque both nuts when all four wheels are on the ground.
X2 This is the biggest pointer anyone could give
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post #5 of 36 Old 06-16-2011, 08:42 PM
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I have been doing 135-140 on mine and no issues since '08. I have a torque wrench that will go that high if you can't find one.

A ratchet strap that runs parallel to the track bar attached to the axle at one end and the frame at the other IS your friend! I messed with mine for at least an hour (think OCD) as it had to be perfectly centered cause I'm nuts. But it shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes. Did you order the track bar braces? They made more of a difference than I thought they would, I was surprised.

When and if you need some help or a tourqe wrench let me know.

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post #6 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 04:52 PM
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I had my track bar loosen up on me after about 4 months on my lift. Check that torque often after wheeling so you don't get some wobble and ruin the holes. And having it "loose" until under proper ride height and load is most crucial like the others have said.
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post #7 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 04:59 PM
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i was thinking about adding/replacing the stock one on mine.... you think this is going to help on the road?

-Marc
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post #8 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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IMO It couldn't hurt. I am slowly replacing everything under there. I really like having the ability to adjust and grease everything. I would consider the poly track bar relocation bracket w/cam bolt setup - it raises the roll center 3" which will improve handling by reducing body roll.

I had a bout with DW after the last wheeling trip and found that the track bar bolt was loose at the axle. I decided to go ahead and upgrade and and will take a good look at the hole on the frame side when I do the swap. I have the Poly cam bolt setup and checked the washers and bolt before I tightened the track bar and they were good to go. The frame side was tight so I am hoping that it is ok. No DW after I made the adjustment.

The new track bar is for peace of mind mainly.

I located a 125f# torque wrench today.

Last edited by Mr.RonGilbert; 06-17-2011 at 05:11 PM.
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post #9 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.RonGilbert View Post

I had a bout with DW after the last wheeling trip and found that the track bar bolt was loose at the axle.
Exactly what happened to me except I was 2 miles from my house when my bar decided to tell me it was loose after 70 highway miles. (something didnt feel just right) I keep a full tool set up in my rig at all times and now I make sure that baby is tight every time as part of my air up and quick check over session after a day out since than. There easy bolts and nuts to get to and a good piece of mind when you pull out back on to the black top.
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post #10 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 07:21 PM
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use two plum bob on the frame, and adjust the track bar.

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post #11 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Splain'

I had planned on using a 4' carpenter's level vertically on the tires then measure from the level to a spot on the Jeep (Fender etc..) making sure that the bubbles are centered etc... I don't have two plum bobs but can hang a couple of nuts from the frame just as easily. Where are you measuring from/to?
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post #12 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 09:47 PM
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If your doing this in your drive:

use a rachet strap to take the preload off the track bar bolt to where to you can just pull the bolts by hand..

when you pop off the old, either the jeep will go right or left a bit, you can easily put the frame side, then with adjuster sleeve turn which way you need to align the hole on the axle end..

next with the plumb bobs say hanging in front of the coils, of course one side will be off, I used the inner C ends, measure and adjust till you get equal length from the inner C to the plumb bobs.

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post #13 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 09:54 PM
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I need to adjust mine some more. I'm obsessed with it. NO, SRSLY.

Have fun!


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post #14 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 10:15 PM
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Make your own plum bob, a string and a washer, nail, rock, whatever it doesn't matter as long as it is the same on both sides, the level on the round tires measuring off the inconsistent fenders will get you really close to the point no one will probably ever notice. But I was just hinting at challenges that I fought trying it that way, sidewals and the raised tread inconsistencies made that route difficult, plus the pain in the ass it was to try and hold the level just right and then try to read a measuring tape at the same time.

I cheated and found a spot on the frame that I could measure from to the inside lip of the rim, that made it a lot easier!

If you need help holler, I'm trying to figure out if I am going to try and tackle the front acos install this weekend or next. I also have front and rear brake pads to toss in, I'm not turning them as they do not feel warped but that may change one I replace them all. I just don't want to grind what little extra there is if I dont have to.

And getting to 125+ pounds is a ton easier with a 1/2 drive breaker bar and a cheater pipe. I'm all about an easier way now a days. Too many years on the wrong end of a spline drive impact doing boiler and exchanger work!

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Post count from the "other" place when i was following the "herd" was 692 on 4-2-09, not a noob...

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post #15 of 36 Old 06-17-2011, 10:50 PM
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post #16 of 36 Old 06-18-2011, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob4607 View Post
I have been doing 135-140 on mine and no issues since '08. I have a torque wrench that will go that high if you can't find one.

A ratchet strap that runs parallel to the track bar attached to the axle at one end and the frame at the other IS your friend! I messed with mine for at least an hour (think OCD) as it had to be perfectly centered cause I'm nuts. But it shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes. Did you order the track bar braces? They made more of a difference than I thought they would, I was surprised.

When and if you need some help or a tourqe wrench let me know.

x2 on the PP track bar braces....I ordered the Adj track bar and hi-steer kit to swap everything out up front. Vandegrift (on here), D-Toy3, bblustang90 and chopperdoug all helped me out with putting the kit on....was a good wrenching party! We also installed C-Gussets at the same time so the front end got everything replaced minus sleeving the axles and regearing.

Anyway, it's a great mount setup they designed and have been pretty happy with the ride/handling with no additional adjustments needed once we got it set in!

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post #17 of 36 Old 06-22-2011, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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As usual.... super fast shipping from Poly. Ordered it on Friday and it was here the following Tuesday.

I have managed to catch the flu so it will be a couple of days before I feel like messing with the install.



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post #18 of 36 Old 06-22-2011, 09:45 PM
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Hasn't rained in 6 months and the first day it does you get the damn flu? Wth!

Just kidding, that sucks man! Hope you get to feeling better and it is a easy 30 minute project. Like I said if you need some help holler! And get well soon!

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Hard top/Auto tranny
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Currie front lower control arms
JKS front and rear adj. track bars
Euroefx HID kit, high/low beam and fogs
Shrockworks rear full width, tire carrier

Post count from the "other" place when i was following the "herd" was 692 on 4-2-09, not a noob...

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post #19 of 36 Old 06-22-2011, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Hasn't rained in 6 months and the first day it does you get the damn flu? Wth!

Just kidding, that sucks man! Hope you get to feeling better and it is a easy 30 minute project. Like I said if you need some help holler! And get well soon!
No shit. The rest of the family has had it... been a barf fest around here over the past week so I knew it was just a matter of time before it was my turn. Hit like a ton of bricks last night.

It'll pass...

Hope to get it knocked out this weekend.

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post #20 of 36 Old 06-25-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Back from the flu and got it thrown on there this evening.

It was off by a little over .5" to the passengers side so I shortened it to what I thought was about .25 and put it in. Buttoned everything back up and took it for a spin figuring that I would measure it after a run around the block and then dial it in... seeing how it is adjustable and all. First thing I noticed was that the steering wheel was off to the drivers side about a quarter turn... no big deal - I can dial the steering in. It seemed "flighty" at speed (~40mph) and wanted to pull to the passengers side. I didn't take it any faster and went back home to do some measurements. It is still off by a little under .5" so I need to shorten it some more. What sucks is that the adjuster sleeve is hard to get to inside the Poly track bar bracket.... you can only turn it a fraction of a turn at a time and even with the pinch bolt completely loose it is a bitch to turn - am I missing something or is this typical?

I am running the Poly Track Bar bracket with cam bolt:


Here is the adjustable rod end (structs say to use a 1/4" punch for adjustment):


Worse case I will just pull the end back off and make the adjustment by spinning it back in but figured I would ask first before fawking with those bolts again.

What are they symptoms of a jeep that is not centered in the front? It is closer to center now than it was before and it felt bad enough to stop and take a look... doesn't add up.
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post #21 of 36 Old 06-25-2011, 08:59 PM
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your on the money, you should be able you adjust it down to 1/16 - 1/32", that's what I was able to do it when I had mine. with a rachet strap I was able to take off the poly and switch to RK with same increments, I'm telling you those plumb bobs are handy on centering the body at ride height without drive the vehicle around the block..

you need something with a point (nail or etc.) for reference to take place of plumb bobs if you don't have some.. pick some up Holmes Depot...

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post #22 of 36 Old 06-25-2011, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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I am going to attack it again in the morning. I ran out of light and the recent rain woke up the skeeters..... I took several measurements from different points on the frame to the wheels (same locations - both sides) and got the same numbers each time. I will hang some washers in the morning and dial it in.

I expected the adjuster to be easier to turn..... I am a little worried about fucking up one of the holes....
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post #23 of 36 Old 06-25-2011, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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I have also heard that unless you can get the same weight in the front seat that you should push it to the drivers side a bit.... is that true? And if so how much? I guess I can have the Mrs get in and then figure twice as much
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post #24 of 36 Old 06-25-2011, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.RonGilbert View Post
I am going to attack it again in the morning. I ran out of light and the recent rain woke up the skeeters..... I took several measurements from different points on the frame to the wheels (same locations - both sides) and got the same numbers each time. I will hang some washers in the morning and dial it in.

I expected the adjuster to be easier to turn..... I am a little worried about fucking up one of the holes....
NA those hose plenty strong, dumn questions did you use antiseize on the threads, just loosen the bolt clamp and go to town with it.. put som MOJO muscle behind it..

Don't be scerd its only pussay!

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post #25 of 36 Old 06-25-2011, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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NA those hose plenty strong, dumn questions did you use antiseize on the threads, just loosen the bolt clamp and go to town with it.. put som MOJO muscle behind it..

Don't be scerd its only pussay!
No anti-seize but I will take it back out and put some on there for sure. I will measure like crazy and try to get it dialed in while I have it out. The anti-seize needs to be there anyway and will help with the mojo.... weah!
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