In the market for front Axles.. Which ones? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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In the market for front Axles.. Which ones?

So I snapped passenger axle joint on my D30 which hogged out the ears. I got a new joint in it and welded the caps in because the clips wouldnt seat. Now I have been researching front shafts and there is so many options. I like the thoughts of rcv's, but is anyone running them on a dd in the winter with salt on the roads, and they are alot of coin... I wheel about once a month in the summer and not as much in the winter but I hate to break down when I am so far from home. I think regular chromo shafts will prolly work. Whats everyones experiences with shafts in the 30. Are you guys still snapping aftermarket shafts and which brand is best?
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 05:24 PM
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Might want to check on these..

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showpo...0&postcount=52

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post #3 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HITMONEY View Post
I think this would be a good way to go. RCVs on a D30 turn your R&P into the fuse instead of the u-joint....I would rather have the u joint be the weak spot. I have alloy usa's fwiw.

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post #4 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 06:25 PM
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Yep.


I thought they had them for JKs but don't see them on the website, unless I missed it.

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post #5 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 06:29 PM
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I got superiors after killing a stocker. I haven't broken one yet.
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 06:46 PM
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I ran rcv's for a salty winter they were fine
Just greased them religiously
If anything they might be better
Off then a u joint cause of the boot

95 Hemi YJ on Treps with a ton of cool custom work

*gone*09rubi unlimited Rock Krawler 5.5 long arm w/rrd Coilovers 37 Falken wildpeak's Currie 60's
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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So I called on those shafts and they are 750.00. So should I just spend the extra coin and get rcv's? In response to the R&P now being the fuse I completely agree and now I am even worse of since I am running 5.13's
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jkoiiiiojk View Post
So I called on those shafts and they are 750.00. So should I just spend the extra coin and get rcv's? In response to the R&P now being the fuse I completely agree and now I am even worse of since I am running 5.13's
there's no reason they should be more than normal shafts. That's kind of annoying. normal alloys are only 600 bucks.

I'm still a fan of Ujoints over the RCV's. I don't know if it's the old school in me or what, but i just prefer the ujoints.

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 08:45 PM
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there's no reason they should be more than normal shafts. That's kind of annoying. normal alloys are only 600 bucks.

I'm still a fan of Ujoints over the RCV's. I don't know if it's the old school in me or what, but i just prefer the ujoints.
I am a fan of axles being just as strong in a turn as a strait line and having near stupid turning angle maybe that is just the new school in me

There is no reason? They should cost more than normal shafts, a CV bell and parts made of high end steel should cost more. Now if you throw a set of CTM's in normal allow shafts then you are in the same league.

I have been running my RCV's through a couple DC/MD salty as fawk winters with no issues.
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 08:51 PM
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There is no reason? They should cost more than normal shafts, a CV bell and parts made of high end steel should cost more. Now if you throw a set of CTM's in normal allow shafts then you are in the same league.
.
i'm talking about the 30 shafts with bigger ujoints. There's no reason they should be 150 more than 30 shafts with regular sized ujoints... unless you're getting a CTM or something.

I understand why the RCV's are as much as they are. I just don't really like them. it is what it is.

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 08:52 PM
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I got superiors after killing a stocker. I haven't broken one yet.
X2 Our customers have had great luck with these. Superiors make great products...

-Jason


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post #12 of 16 Old 06-15-2011, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
i'm talking about the 30 shafts with bigger ujoints. There's no reason they should be 150 more than 30 shafts with regular sized ujoints... unless you're getting a CTM or something.

I understand why the RCV's are as much as they are. I just don't really like them. it is what it is.
ahhh.
thought you were talking RCVs
so someone is just re-hobbing 44 shafts or something?
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-16-2011, 06:52 AM
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I've put over 60k miles on my RCV shafts (nearly all of that with 40's), many wheeling trips, on the coast and drive on the beach often (salt), and they run as smooth as they day I put them in.

The RCV's are very smooth even at full lock with no bind like you get with a UJ. They come with RCV's "You break it, we replace it" warranty.
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-16-2011, 07:15 AM
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ahhh.
thought you were talking RCVs
so someone is just re-hobbing 44 shafts or something?
Technically it's just a rubi outer and a 30 inner bored for 44 ujoints...

297 d30 shafts aren't more expensive than 260 shafts d30 ya know. There's no reason the Jk world should be Ny different. Plus once you hit that 750 dollar pricepoint you might as well go rcv

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-16-2011, 07:31 AM
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Something to ponder. Most of the aftermarket D44 shafts do not use the larger factory D44 U-joint, but the more common and smaller 5-760X, same size as used in a stock 30.
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-16-2011, 07:57 AM
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I converted my Rubi UL to Spyntec manual hubs last year, which requires new shafts. I got Superiors & CTM u-joints. The axle is sleeved and the first set of shafts I got from Superior were so off center (.090 pass, .050 driver) the shafts were rubbing the inside of the sleeves. Took a few weeks, but Superior came up with a centered pair. They've worked great so far, including a few trips to Moab. Just something to bear in mind.
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