Swaybar options?? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-13-2011, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Swaybar options??

I am in need of some help/advice? Let me give you the specs, if I leave something out, just say and I will try and answer it. I have a 08 JK unlimited rubi with a 6" LCG long arm suspension and 38X14.5X17 wheels. I am currently running the TeraFlex Dual Rate swaybar. The problem I am having is the front passenger tire is rubbing on the disconnect knob when turning driver/left. When this happens it causes the disconnect to disengage. I do not want to buy new tires and Teraflex has been kind enough to refund me the $$$. I have been looking around for a replacement of the Teraflex swaybar. I have looked at the Antirock and thats not an option because there is not an option of engage and disengaged. So, let me hear the options??
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-13-2011, 10:04 PM
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Get wheels with less backspace (3.25" maybe) or add some spacers (spidertrax) to push the wheels out farther. Unless you are rubbing heavily then that should address your problem.

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post #3 of 16 Old 06-13-2011, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Addiction View Post
I am in need of some help/advice? Let me give you the specs, if I leave something out, just say and I will try and answer it. I have a 08 JK unlimited rubi with a 6" LCG long arm suspension and 38X14.5X17 wheels. I am currently running the TeraFlex Dual Rate swaybar. The problem I am having is the front passenger tire is rubbing on the disconnect knob when turning driver/left. When this happens it causes the disconnect to disengage. I do not want to buy new tires and Teraflex has been kind enough to refund me the $$$. I have been looking around for a replacement of the Teraflex swaybar. I have looked at the Antirock and thats not an option because there is not an option of engage and disengaged. So, let me hear the options??
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-14-2011, 10:08 AM
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Just run no front sway bar
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-14-2011, 11:20 AM
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Quick disconnects.

On my JK I am currently running the Currie product, but originally ran the Rubi motor.

The Rubi motor was prone to user error (I forget to disconnect), and in a spot that I was never comfortable with... plus just one more electronic thing to fail.

The Currie product ROBS you of down travel. I disconnected the last time on the trail and easily saw four plus inches of down travel. That is a HUGE difference.

What I will be doing now is disconnecting. I have drilled out a hole in the bottom bolt for the anti-rocks and have ditched the nut for a cotter pin. This way on hardball, fire roads, and when I forget... I can keep the anti-rock working and when I play, I can disconnect. Seems like a good compromise to me.
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-14-2011, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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I see that Offroad Evolution just released an add on to the factory sway bar that essentially removes the electrical component of the swaybar, giving you the manual override. Any one want to pipe in on it??
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-19-2011, 10:29 AM
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Update. Here are a couple of pics to illustrate the difference between disconnected and a Currie AntiRock (the Mopar e-Disco had similar droop that I saw with the Currie). The pics aren't from the same spot, but I think both are showing max (or close to it) droop.

ANTI-ROCK:


DISCONNECTED:


Some things to note:
Lift: Currie 4" Short Arm.
AntiRocks: Using the links that came with the lift kit and parallel at even.
Sliders: PSC in connected pic, EVO in disconnected pic. EVOs sit ~3" lower.

So... what are we seeing here. Taking into consideration the new and old sliders as a reference, I believe I am seeing 4+ inches of additional usable droop in my front. That is HUGE on the trail.

Maybe I should try discoing the rear?
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-19-2011, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abendx View Post
(the Mopar e-Disco had similar droop that I saw with the Currie).
how could the rubi disco limit your droop?
when disco'd the 2 halves free spin from eachother

only possibility I could think of may be you had too short of links on the mopar and were running out of length with the shorter trailing arms of the mopar and the longer trailing arms on the currie are letting it droop more

if you are set up with a lot of droop, you need to run longer links than you think you do on the rubi bar because of the relatively short trailing arms - parallel to the ground doesn't cut it, need a few inches up up sweep on the bar when sitting flat


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post #9 of 16 Old 06-20-2011, 01:00 PM
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how could the rubi disco limit your droop?
when disco'd the 2 halves free spin from each other
It does, often significantly. Ive seen many examples of it Before vs after on the club RTI ramp days. With lifts sold by the beloved vendors on this site with their recommended link size.

Its more than just being physically connected to the axle, the links themselves bind, and longer links with flexy lifts and big fat tires seem to suffer badly. I have seen, in person several times, links bend over the draglink while turning at full flex, and lots of tire rubbing. If the links are making contact, limited droop is just what happens prior to bending or breaking the links. The first time you see e-disco links flip, youll say "WTF", as short links like to do that.

Drive up a makeshift RTI ramp till a tire comes off the ground using the factory set-up and mark your progress, then physically disco the links and do it again. Thats the only way to tell if your set-up is being limited by the e-disco.

Plus, the e disco is not a very robust unit and is very prone to breakage.

I have had similar experiences with the antirock, so don't drink that coolaid either. I put one on my TJ, felt no more stable on the trail than before and lost 4" of droop, and it was way less effective on the road than the factory sway bar was. Then I put one in the rear of my JK when I had to cut the factory off to make room for coilovers, It killed about 5" of flex and was no more stable than running no sway bar in the rear - so I removed it and have no rear SB.
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-20-2011, 01:07 PM
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links bend over the tie rod when theyre too short, they hyperextend and bend forward

usually happens in lifts that simply swap the rear links to the front

safe to say I've seen it

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2581



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post #11 of 16 Old 06-20-2011, 01:11 PM
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swayloc

dual rate.........
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-20-2011, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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If you are running front Currier Swaybar, do you notice additional sway with normal street driving. Thats been my only concern with the Currier swaybar, its always disconnected?
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-20-2011, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
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I second that. We run them and I swear by them. They are dual rate as well and are a solid, simple, setup.


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post #14 of 16 Old 06-20-2011, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Addiction View Post
If you are running front Currier Swaybar, do you notice additional sway with normal street driving. Thats been my only concern with the Currier swaybar, its always disconnected?
No real difference.... unless maybe, you drive your heep like a race car.

I was just reporting my findings, with photographic proof. Maybe I had my sway bar incorrectly adjusted? But if I did... it was to Currie's spec with their lift and sway.

I think my next trip, I'll have to try this with the rear and see if I get the same result DD is seeing.
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-21-2011, 11:22 AM
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It's all about controlled droop. That's the thing with the antirock. On some setups it really doesn't help you.

HOWEVER, if you're unseating your coils, you're really not getting any effective traction from that wheel at that point. YOu'll get some, don't get me wrong. But when you then transfer the weight of your rig back over to the unseated coil that coil has to then absorb not only the weight of the rig but the momentum that's built back up by the theight transfering unchecked.

I also haven't drankt he currie koolaid, but i do have one sitting here for my big jeep. I just haven't gotten around to fabbing it up yet.

My favorite setup is what jeepnick has on his rig. it's the oro swayloc. it's pretty neat. locked it's like a high performance sway bar, unlocked you get a soft rate sway bar.

At rock run it kept his rig a lot more level than disconnecting did. Does it limit his travel? probably. But it keeps the jeep front violently transfering weight back and forth. I thought it rode MUCH better with the new sway bar. It felt like a ship at sea with the old one just disconnected.



Take that for what it's worth. I run no sway bars on my TJ with full coilovers and it flexes over 1300 on the RTI ramp. but i also don't unseat coils with coilovers.

i run a rear sway bar and disconnected front on the trail in my JK. That's how i currently like it.

Good luck

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-22-2011, 08:53 AM
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I will third the ORO SwayLOC dual rate set up. I run it on my Jeep and love it. I like the options it has and clearance it offers.

Give me a call and I'll get you a price on one


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