Dana 30 / 44 with 37's Question - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-07-2011, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Dana 30 / 44 with 37's Question

So here it is:

I would like to hear some of your opinions on me snapping my axles or breaking something under the below circumstances?

My Jeep is 90% Street 5% Highway and 5% Off Road.

Dana 30 Front & Dana 44 Rear, 5:13's, Arb Front & Rear, Sleeves and Gussets

I am not in anyway hardcore but I do like to feel good when or if I am accomplishing an obstacle.


Since this question is subjective to climate, geographics, birth control, and being under the influence, please review the following video of "My kind of Off Roading":

YouTube - ‪John Bull Trail, "Gate Keeper" CA Big Bear‬‏

Thank you in advance,

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post #2 of 12 Old 06-07-2011, 05:00 PM
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I am in the same scenario and have the same setup as you. I added a truss and chromie shafts all the way around.

I don't shy away from trails but am easy as I can be on the skinny pedal.

I know that it is a weak point and understand that if/when it breaks I will address it - you gotta be prepared to pay if you play. Simple as that.

I think you will be fine..... I would upgrade to chromies and use the stockers as trail spares for a little peace of mind. A truss is an easy addition too.
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post #3 of 12 Old 06-07-2011, 07:53 PM
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Chromoly shafts. Don't bounce/hump rocks. Don't drive with much wheel spin. You should be fine.

Having a 2 dr helps.

However, the more time passes, the more I come to the conclusion that building a rear 44 doesn't make much sense when you can get a new Currie or Teraflex 60 for close to $3500 shipped. I think a Dynatrac Trail Series 60 is about $300-$500 more, but worth a look.

Vs. upgrading a rear 44 runs:

$1500 Super 44 rear (ARB and axle shaft upgrade)
$300 rear gears and bearings
$300 labor for gear install
$400 value of a rear 44
$100+ reinforcing rear axle brackets (more if you do EVO RockStar skids)
$100+ rotating rear lower coil perches to handle steeper lifts on a 2 dr.

$2700 to upgrade a rear 44 vs. $3500 for a 60 leads me to just want to do the 60.

I'd sell the 44 for $400 and buy the 60 for $3500, for a $3100 net upgrade vs a $2300 outlay to upgrade the 44.

I think a rear 60 is worth $800 more if you will ever wheel hard with 37s or larger.

And, on upgrading a 30:

$800 ARB
$1000 RCV axle shafts
$300 gears and overhaul kits
$250 Poly ball joints
$350 labor for gear install
$300 parts and labor to install sleeves and gussets
$400 value of front 30

$3400 for an upgraded 30.

Vs. you can find a used upgraded 44 with 5.13 gears, sleeves, etc. for around $2500.

So, you could sell your 30 for $400 and buy a 44 for $2500 for a $2100 net upgrade cost vs. a $3000 outlay towards upgrading the 30.

If I were paying the labor for gear and sleeve/gusset/ball joint installs, I'd sell the 44 and 30, buy a rear 60 with dual drilled shafts so I could run 5x5 wheels, and buy a built front 44 from someone who is upgrading to a $6500+ 60.

In fact, combine the the two and the net cost of the upgrade with a 60/44 is $5200 net instead of upgraded 44/30 for $5700 net. Even if you have to add sleeves or Poly ball joints to the used front 44, it still makes more sense to do the 60/44.

Food for thought.


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Last edited by planman; 06-08-2011 at 06:25 PM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-07-2011, 08:00 PM
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I agree with Ron & planman 100%. There still not 60s what ever you do. Just be easy on the skinny. You wheel your jeep so you know what it is capable of. And where the limits are at. But there is always a case of bending or snapping something even on d60s.

I'm running the same besides open front d30. I have installed C's and a homemade outer truss. And rcv shafts. The rear has stock axle shafts. Most the time I don't even worry about the front after installing the rcv's. It's pointed up half the time. All weight is on the rear. And the jku's are heavy. If anything breaks on me I bet its going to be the rear. Due to the terrain in my area. Low gears seem to help out a lot with less wheel spin. And if it does spin its not near as fast as having stock gears.

Off topic but was on the trail with a guy few weeks ago who was running a rubi jku 4.10 gears with 35s. I'm 37s 5.13s he struggled through areas where I was at ease. At one point I thought he was going to break something. Low gears diffently help.

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post #5 of 12 Old 06-07-2011, 08:22 PM
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See my sig for my specs. I have wheeled some decently tough trails and finally broke a stock front axle shaft (yes, I ran on the stock front axle shafts with 37s and locked for quite some time) because I was getting on it too much in the snow. RCVs in the front now and learned my lesson.

07 X - Flame Red - 6 Speed - 5.13s - 37x12.50 MTR/Ks - ProComp 7069s 17x9
RK 3.5" X-Factor LA - WTOR Hydro Assist - Rubicon Axles F&R - Trussed & HD Brackets
PSC Flares, OR-Fab Front Bumper, Genright Rear Bumper, Poly Sliders w/ PSC Armor
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-07-2011, 08:58 PM
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Running 35s on a D30/sleeved/4.88/Detroit and I grenaded the Detroit after 1 stock axle shaft breakage. Wheel hard, black/red trails, large uphill climbs, wheelspin, lots of bumping. Need a 60.

2008 JK X 2DR NSG370

Time to build the TONS!

Long Island Off Road Club
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester116th View Post
Confucius say "If you no want break axle, Drive with BIG head not LITTLE head"
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 12:29 AM
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I think if I had 5000 up front I would def go that route.
But the nice thing about building what you have is you can do it in stages, and if you do the labor your self you can save some coin.
I think this is what I'm going to do, just slowly build my 44 and 30 as funds come available.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the above information. Planman Especially.


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post #9 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.RonGilbert View Post
easy as I can be on the skinny pedal.
^^^ This...

Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
Don't bounce/hump rocks. Don't drive with much wheel spin.
^^^ and this...

...and airing down as low as you can, will help reduce the breakage most probably more than anything else.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 02:38 PM
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So I have been wondering about this too and had a few questions:
Is the bending strength on the front d30 and front d44 the same? I know that the internals are different but what about the actual tubes and outer housing? Same?
Also, since there are a variety of diameters and weights of tires? I was wondering if weight or tire diameter has a greater effect? Basically, if you went with a light wheel and light 37" tire that weighed as much as a moderate/heavy wheel and heavy 35" tire, would they have the same effect or would the diameter of the 37s pose a bigger threat?
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post #11 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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^^ those are good questions. I don't know how Diameter would make a difference but the weight difference between 35's and 37's km2's is a couple lbs so that's not very much...


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post #12 of 12 Old 06-08-2011, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejk09 View Post
Is the bending strength on the front d30 and front d44 the same?
Close enough so it doesn't matter I'd guess.

Quote:
I know that the internals are different but what about the actual tubes and outer housing? Same?
The housing is obviously different, I believe the tubes and c's are the same.

Quote:
Also, since there are a variety of diameters and weights of tires? I was wondering if weight or tire diameter has a greater effect? Basically, if you went with a light wheel and light 37" tire that weighed as much as a moderate/heavy wheel and heavy 35" tire, would they have the same effect or would the diameter of the 37s pose a bigger threat?
As you point out, it is not just weight that matters, but also other factors like the lever arm (torque) which are directly related to diameter. Generally speaking, weight is going to be the dominant factor when the wheel is spinning, and lever arm is going to be the the dominant factor when crawling. Driving style (ie: easy on the skinny pedal) will go a long way to reducing breakages.
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