Question: What problem are you trying to solve by flipping your drag link? Do you currently have bump steer? I'm of the opinion that if your rig is handling well then don't change the geometry.
I was running fine with the stock tie rod and drag link until, even after bending/adjusting them a few times. I decided to go heavy duty and got beefed-up drag link and tie rod (doesn't matter what brand). Even though I was having no ride issues I decided to flip the drag link because it seemed that would make it more parallel to the track bar, and also gain some clearance.
First ride out I had death wobble. Being the stubborn bastard I am, instead of returning to the stock geometry I kept upgrading other components until I finally fixed the death wobble. First I went through all the threads. Then I replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, new trackbar, replaced the springs and shocks (which were sagging and needed replacing anyway), adjustable control arms to set my castor. Ultimately put long-arm radius setup on the front and a second steering stabilizer and it finally went away, about $1,500 later in parts and alignments.
I'm all for beefing-up weak parts of your rig. But don't make needless changes to the geometry. My understanding is that bump steer is an indication that you might benefit from a flip drag link. If this isn't a problem, I'd stick to the stock geometry for now. You can always change your mind and flip it later.
Just my two cents.
I'm a JKO Reject
Last edited by BumpInTheRoad; 06-26-2011 at 08:04 PM.