Poly front trackbar brace and rock krawler trackbar - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Poly front trackbar brace and rock krawler trackbar

Just installed the poly performance front trackbar brace and rock krawler trackbar. After tightening the trackbar bolt down to 125ft lbs the trackbar is moving in and out of the mount/brace and I even tightened it to 140ft lbs in the video below.

You can kind of see it moving in and out and thats just moving the steering wheel slowly back and forth. Anyone have any problems with this? any suggestions to get it to stop moving?

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ementvideo.mp4

RK 3.5 LIFT/RRD SHOCKS/FRONT CONTROL ARMS/DRAG LINK/TRACK BAR/REAR BRAKE HOSES/COOPER 295-75-17 STT JEEPERMAN FRONT BUMPER SUPERWINCH EPI9 JKS LOWER TRACK BAR BRACES/DISCONNECTS CRAGAR WHEELS SOFT 8 SYNERGY UPPER TRACK BAR BRACES RR SKID PLATES BENCHMARK DESIGNS EVAP SKID
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post #2 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 08:17 PM
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i cant see shit from watching that video.

you may have hollowed out the holes for where the bolts go through?

you haven't had any issues with wobbles or death wobble in the past have you?


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post #3 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 08:41 PM
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I dont see the bolt moving, so my guess is its in the tb bushing. Is it new?
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
i cant see shit from watching that video.

you may have hollowed out the holes for where the bolts go through?

you haven't had any issues with wobbles or death wobble in the past have you?
The stock holes are ok and the poly brace and RK TB are new

just upgraded from a jks TB to the RK and the poly brace

I do have death wobble but nothing is worn that I can find

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post #5 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevej21 View Post
I dont see the bolt moving, so my guess is its in the tb bushing. Is it new?
Yes new

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post #6 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 09:13 PM
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I see the wiggle. Looks like the joint is wiggling as if the bolt diameter and inner sleeve diameter are a tad off. Are you sure the bolt is the correct size and matches all three components' holes diameter? (stock bracket, Poly bracket, and R.K. joint). Maybe that joint is supposed to move like that though...just tossing ideas.

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post #7 of 21 Old 06-03-2011, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JocKy View Post
I see the wiggle. Looks like the joint is wiggling as if the bolt diameter and inner sleeve diameter are a tad off. Are you sure the bolt is the correct size and matches all three components' holes diameter? (stock bracket, Poly bracket, and R.K. joint). Maybe that joint is supposed to move like that though...just tossing ideas.
I cant remember if I checked all three. The bolt came with the poly brace and seemed to have a better fit then the stock bolt in the brace. That I remember

I'm thinking it can only be about 4 things

1.bolt diameter and inner sleeve diameter are a tad off like you said

2.The bushing rubber is softer and is giving more

3.The brace is making it harder to clamp it down tight

4. All of the above. Just my luck lately when I try doing something on the jk

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post #8 of 21 Old 06-04-2011, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUDY850 View Post
I cant remember if I checked all three. The bolt came with the poly brace and seemed to have a better fit then the stock bolt in the brace. That I remember
Poly uses proper 9/16" bolts on all their stuff. A big issue is that Jeep has 9/16" holes in their brackets & rods/arms, but used 14mm standard rather than shouldered bolts. The latter are too small and tend to move, the standard bolts' threads then act like a rat-tail file & egg out the holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RUDY850 View Post
I'm thinking it can only be about 4 things

1.bolt diameter and inner sleeve diameter are a tad off like you said

2.The bushing rubber is softer and is giving more

3.The brace is making it harder to clamp it down tight
From looking at your video it appears the bushing is too soft, or loose within the joint. I'd have someone move the wheel and check it for sure. The brace shouldn't affect the torque on the joint at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RUDY850 View Post
4. All of the above. Just my luck lately when I try doing something on the jk
Lol, welcome to the JK Follies! You just have to stick with it. It's a complex suspension and very sensitive to changes.
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post #9 of 21 Old 06-04-2011, 10:27 AM
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What I see in the video is normal to a certain extent. There is supposed to be some flex in the bushing. You will especially notice it when it's standing still and you turn the wheel.
I spoke with JP at RK a few minutes ago and told him about your concern. He would be glad to help you out if you call him on Monday.

Last edited by Co4Lo; 06-04-2011 at 10:47 AM.
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post #10 of 21 Old 06-04-2011, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
What I see in the video is normal to a certain extent. There is supposed to be some flex in the bushing. You will especially notice it when it's standing still and you turn the wheel.
I spoke with JP at RK a few minutes ago and told him about your concern. He would be glad to help you out if you call him on Monday.
Will do thanks

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post #11 of 21 Old 06-06-2011, 08:21 AM
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Sir

We ran the exact same setup on our Victim with the Poly Brace for quite some time until we moved our axle forward and had to put a new mount on all together! We did not have any issues with it.

What you are showing is what we would concider normal for the bushing. In a static condition as you are showing your vehicle, turning the wheel like you are, we would expect there to be bushing deflection. This is also noticeable on an OEM track bar. The one thing that makes ours a bit different as with any track bar that switches over to a heim joint on one end and only one bushing end is that all the "deflection" is loaded up on one end instead of equally distributed over both ends. Using one heim and one bushing tends to make for a "tighter" over all assembly. Heim - heim would be the tightest, but right quality would suffer some.

If you want to reduce the amount of bushing in there we have different ones, but like we said, the ride quality or noise transmitted to the frame through the bar will increase.

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post #12 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoK66 View Post
Poly uses proper 9/16" bolts on all their stuff. A big issue is that Jeep has 9/16" holes in their brackets & rods/arms, but used 14mm standard rather than shouldered bolts. The latter are too small and tend to move, the standard bolts' threads then act like a rat-tail file & egg out the holes.



From looking at your video it appears the bushing is too soft, or loose within the joint. I'd have someone move the wheel and check it for sure. The brace shouldn't affect the torque on the joint at all.



Lol, welcome to the JK Follies! You just have to stick with it. It's a complex suspension and very sensitive to changes.
So its best to use a 14mm bolt? One that is just like stock but a tad longer?

Whats the difference in shoulder vs standard bolt?


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post #13 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djstorm100 View Post
So its best to use a 14mm bolt? One that is just like stock but a tad longer?

Whats the difference in shoulder vs standard bolt?
14mm is smaller than 9/16. Best to use 9/16
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post #14 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 12:04 PM
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14mm is .551"

9/16 is .5625"

Clamping Force is what should be doing the work in any application. The fitment of the bolt to the hole is not as critical as you think.

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post #15 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 12:56 PM
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Oh ok, so above SoK66 was saying jeep uses a 9/16 hole but has a 14mm bolt in that hole which will make it egg/oval out over time if not tq right?


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post #16 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 01:42 PM
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Absolutely! If the hardware's clamping force is not sufficient, any bolt size will wallow out a hole and make a mess!

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post #17 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
14mm is .551"

9/16 is .5625"

Clamping Force is what should be doing the work in any application. The fitment of the bolt to the hole is not as critical as you think.

RK
There are two issues with the stock 14mm bolts: 1) They're too small for the 9/16" component mounting holes, which permits lateral movement, 2) Jeep uses standard bolts rather than shouldered, clearly a cost savings decision. As the bolts rub the brackets they act like rat tail files and they eventually open up the holes, allowing even more movement. Obviously, you have to get sufficient torque on the bolts to hold them in place, but they'll still move under deflection if the clearances are too large. The constant rub of the bolt threads on the brackets & bushings just opens the holes and makes this worse & worse over time. On a stock suspension, the twisting forces and unsprung weight is far less than on a even mildly built rig. This makes the issue bubble up to the top.

We've seen quite a few where the owner swears the bolts are sufficiently tight. But put a torque wrench on them and they're way under spec. Don't trust the air wrench!

Last edited by SoK66; 09-26-2011 at 04:47 PM.
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post #18 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 05:09 PM
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Thanks for the clear up! Wonder the exact size of shoulder size is need. The length of the shoulder is what I'm referring to.






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post #19 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djstorm100 View Post
Thanks for the clear up! Wonder the exact size of shoulder size is need. The length of the shoulder is what I'm referring to.






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DJ, this may save you some time, not sure if you had already checked it out.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-28601.html
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post #20 of 21 Old 09-26-2011, 09:42 PM
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DJ, this may save you some time, not sure if you had already checked it out.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...t-p-28601.html
Thanks!

Wonder what the strength is of these vs grade 8's

As I know F911 are Grade 9's correct?

Eh its worth it for not having to shop around for bolts for sure!


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post #21 of 21 Old 09-27-2011, 09:07 AM
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wrong post.


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