Most efficient way to change springs in my driveway? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Most efficient way to change springs in my driveway?

I bought some 19/60 coils for my 2 door and am gonna change them in my driveway. I have two jacks, 4 jack stands, a high lift and my stock bottle jack.

Any tips to get this done the most efficiently? Most of the time I do my stuff at my buddy's shop with a lift but he is tied up.

Thanks,
Josh


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post #2 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:12 PM
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jack up remove tire put jack stand under axle at lowest setting then put jack under frame and jack. when enough room is created pull the old spring out and replace. worked when i did a spacer lift last year.

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post #3 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:13 PM
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Should be no problem using what you have. Get it up on stands with the wheels removed. Put a jack under the pumpkin. Remove the bolts for the driver's side sway bar links and shocks. SLOWLY drop the axle until the spring drops out of the upper set, and enough so you can get it over the bump stop in the lower bucket. Pull out the spring, slide in the new one. You may have to drop the axle a bit more to get it in if it's a lift spring. Slide in the new spring, rase the axle so you can get the sway bar & shock bolts in. Repeat on the other side. You may have to remove the track bar bolt on the passenger's side to get it to drop enough. You may also find it helpful to use a spring compressor.

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post #4 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:14 PM
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I have a set of spring compressors, and they make the job unbelievably easy.

I just jack up the front or back from under the axle, disco the sway bar links, place on jack stands, remove wheels, slowly lower jack to let the axle drop, use spring compressors, and springs fall out.
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post #5 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:16 PM
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Jack the Jeep up on one end, put the jack stands under. Remove tires, drop jack down. That should give you enough axle droop and room to get the old springs out and the new ones in. Reinstall tires and repeat for the other end.

I'm sure there's a better, more in-depth write-up around here somewhere, but that's the general idea.
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post #6 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knyland View Post
jack up remove tire put jack stand under axle at lowest setting then put jack under frame and jack. when enough room is created pull the old spring out and replace. worked when i did a spacer lift last year.
This works best if you do one side at a time I'm pretty sure. I just disconnected my drag link and it drooped enough for me to pop the coils right out as well. I jacked the jeep up, but the frame jacks on, wheels off, then lowered the front axle till they popped out. no need to fool with coil compressors

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post #7 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:22 PM
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Spring compressors can be borrowed from some parts stores with a deposit that you get back when you return them. The make this process very easy. I also pull the sensor cable lose from the rubber mount to give them more room to stretch.
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 03:25 PM
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I've done it both ways, and coil compressors are a PITA as well as not being the most safe tool around. there's a lot of potential energy stored in those things when you get the coil tightened up

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post #9 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 06:53 PM
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Did mine today! Make sure you undo the brakeline and antilock brackets. One on frame and the other is behind bottom of shock.
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post #10 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 08:39 PM
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Forget the spring compressors...waste of time if you jack it up enough.

Jack up the jeep and set 2 jack stands as high as they can go on each side. Take the tires off, remove your swaybar links or quick discos, unbolt your brake line from the frame. Drop one side of the axle to the floor and this should be enough to squeeze out the coil spring and add your new springs. If the brake line is the limiting factor to droop the axle further down take off the caliper to gain more droop.
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post #11 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 09:06 PM
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Couple of additional thoughts...

Fronts:
(1) As SoK66 said, make sure you unbolt the stock shocks in addition to the stock front sway bar links. This is key and will allow the axel to drop as needed (no need for spring compressor).

(2) SaharaBlack also makes a great point about the brake line and anti-lock brackets.

Rear:
(1) Disconnect the track bar at the axel
(2) Disconnect sway bar links
(3) Remove shocks
(4) Unscrew the emergency brake retainer bolt (found under the rear of the tub). Make sure you do this step.
(5) Disconnect the rear bake line cable brackets.

Again...doing all this will allow you to lower the rear axle enough to slide the stock springs out and longer springs in without breaking anything.
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post #12 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevyJKU08 View Post
Forget the spring compressors...waste of time if you jack it up enough.

Jack up the jeep and set 2 jack stands as high as they can go on each side. Take the tires off, remove your swaybar links or quick discos, unbolt your brake line from the frame. Drop one side of the axle to the floor and this should be enough to squeeze out the coil spring and add your new springs. If the brake line is the limiting factor to droop the axle further down take off the caliper to gain more droop.
If the brake line is the limiting factor, you should consider either longer lines or relo brackets depending on what you're installing.

Just my .02



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post #13 of 26 Old 05-31-2011, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dancin Dan View Post
If the brake line is the limiting factor, you should consider either longer lines or relo brackets depending on what you're installing.

Just my .02
With the couple basic spring swaps I've done the shocks were the limiting droop factor before the brake lines were. Which when you drop the lower shock bolts it's wise to get the calipers out of the way. Not a concern for normal driving. Certainly longer shocks will change that factor.

I think that is all he was referring to when disassembling.

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post #14 of 26 Old 06-01-2011, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dancin Dan View Post
If the brake line is the limiting factor, you should consider either longer lines or relo brackets depending on what you're installing.

Just my .02
I was talking about just disassembling & installation of the new coils if he can't get enough droop out of the axle in the driveway
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post #15 of 26 Old 06-01-2011, 07:47 AM
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All the above, but importantly loosen ALL control arm bolts and track bar bolts (removing one track bar bolt completely makes life easier).

I jack up by the diff, place the stands just behind the lower control arm chassis mounts, remove wheels, remove lower shock bolts, remove brake line chassis bracket, remove lower track bar bolt and loosen all control arms and other end of track bar, disconnect sway bar links. Drop axle keeping an eye on the ABS wiring (may need bracket disconnected), spring will just about fall out.

Once fully reassembled, jump up and down a few times before tightening all control arms and track bar bolts at the new height to correct torque setting (125f/lb). Otherwise the bushes will be twisted at the new 'normal' ride height promoting premature bush failure.

Repeat for the other end.

Done it this way several times on the driveway now!

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post #16 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 01:15 AM
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08 4 door JK, Terra flex leveling kit, MORE 1" body lift, 33" MT TOYO's on painted stock rims, 1.5" spidertrax spacers, Body armor high clearence front and rear bumpers with tire swing. Airaid CAI and an upside down rear view mirror
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post #17 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevyJKU08 View Post
Forget the spring compressors...waste of time if you jack it up enough.
Use em before you make a statement like that. I change out 4 springs in less than a half hour with spring compressors; don't have to mess with brake lines, track bars, or control arms. Less than 10 minutes per spring, hardly "a waste of time" if you know what you are doing.
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post #18 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desert dog View Post
Use em before you make a statement like that. I change out 4 springs in less than a half hour with spring compressors; don't have to mess with brake lines, track bars, or control arms. Less than 10 minutes per spring, hardly "a waste of time" if you know what you are doing.
Do you have a link to the ones you have?


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post #19 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 12:23 PM
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I also have the 19/60 swap to do. How important is it to loosen the track bar and control arm bolts? I would rather do it right once than have to replace parts later.
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post #20 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMann2380 View Post
Do you have a link to the ones you have?
I use these and an air wrench:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_203.htm

If its only something you are going to do once, than you may be wasting money, but if you attend a lot of "wrenching parties" they come in very handy.

Don't use the single "strut type compressor" on these coil springs, those are very dangerous. The double ones in the link lock onto the spring. after you do a couple of springs, you will get very fast.
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post #21 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mallow View Post
I also have the 19/60 swap to do. How important is it to loosen the track bar and control arm bolts? I would rather do it right once than have to replace parts later.
.x2


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post #22 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desert dog View Post
Use em before you make a statement like that. I change out 4 springs in less than a half hour with spring compressors; don't have to mess with brake lines, track bars, or control arms. Less than 10 minutes per spring, hardly "a waste of time" if you know what you are doing.
Congratulations that you did 4 springs in a 1/2 hour did you win a medal or were you applying for NASCAR pitcrew???

Well, kind of funny as most cases when you are swapping springs you are going bigger and need to mess with the TB and CA's. Most cases you are changing out the Track bar(s) for an adj or adding a bracket to center you axles. Also, with a bigger lift you would be extending your brake lines so it's not a limiting factor for flexing and sometimes most guys are changing either the upper or lower control arms to adj CA(s) to get the caster back to reduce the floaty feeling but I forgot you wouldn't mess with the Brakelines, CA or TB(s) when adding new coil springs.
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post #23 of 26 Old 06-02-2011, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desert dog View Post
I use these and an air wrench:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_203.htm

If its only something you are going to do once, than you may be wasting money, but if you attend a lot of "wrenching parties" they come in very handy.

Don't use the single "strut type compressor" on these coil springs, those are very dangerous. The double ones in the link lock onto the spring. after you do a couple of springs, you will get very fast.
I agree. With the caveat that spring compressors are great as long as you have the air tools, otherwise they suck azz.
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post #24 of 26 Old 06-03-2011, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mallow View Post
I also have the 19/60 swap to do. How important is it to loosen the track bar and control arm bolts? I would rather do it right once than have to replace parts later.
If you are altering the vehicle height then its quite important to loosen all control arm and track bar bolts as they must be tightened when the vehicle is sitting with its full weight on the suspension at the now normal ride height.

This is to ensure the bushes are in a 'neutral' position and not already twisted and loaded up at rest. If not done they will fail quicker and effect ride/handling.
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post #25 of 26 Old 06-03-2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevyJKU08 View Post
Congratulations that you did 4 springs in a 1/2 hour did you win a medal or were you applying for NASCAR pitcrew???

Well, kind of funny as most cases when you are swapping springs you are going bigger and need to mess with the TB and CA's. Most cases you are changing out the Track bar(s) for an adj or adding a bracket to center you axles. Also, with a bigger lift you would be extending your brake lines so it's not a limiting factor for flexing and sometimes most guys are changing either the upper or lower control arms to adj CA(s) to get the caster back to reduce the floaty feeling but I forgot you wouldn't mess with the Brakelines, CA or TB(s) when adding new coil springs.
Why would someone change brake lines and control arms with 2-2.5" of lift (most common for the JK)?
People buy cheap ass kits that sag all the time and swap springs, no?
Did the OP give you personal info that he is going with a big lift? He said 19/60 coils, which should give him 1-1.5" of lift.

I guess in Canadia, thats how you roll, doin shit the hard way so you can play in the mud. Ohh, and ham is not bacon m'focker
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