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post #1 of 22 Old 05-21-2011, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Hot Rotor Nightmare!

I recently replaced all four rotors on my 07 4door due to pulsing pedal and vibration. New rotors fixed the problem, but only for two days. The right rear rotor warped again in 2 days! After some investigating I realized that my rotors were hot on all four wheels. After taking apart all four calipers and cleaning them the problem remained. Finally decided to take the fuses out of the abs system (J6 & J7) to bypass it. This solved the problem on the front brakes but the rear rotors were still hot. I replaced the hydraulic control unit and the module for the abs/esp/bas headache system. now the problem is back with all four rotors over heating. The abs/esp/bas lights are on and will not go off. Something is causing all four calipers to not fully release, keeping just enough drag on the rotors to heat them up. Furthermore my jk has 71k miles on it and is on it's third set of rear pads, the front pads are still factory and have 3/4 of the pad left.....shouldn't it be the exact opposite? Anyone experience anything like this/know a solution? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
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post #2 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastKy Wrangler View Post
I recently replaced all four rotors on my 07 4door due to pulsing pedal and vibration. New rotors fixed the problem, but only for two days. The right rear rotor warped again in 2 days! After some investigating I realized that my rotors were hot on all four wheels. After taking apart all four calipers and cleaning them the problem remained. Finally decided to take the fuses out of the abs system (J6 & J7) to bypass it. This solved the problem on the front brakes but the rear rotors were still hot. I replaced the hydraulic control unit and the module for the abs/esp/bas headache system. now the problem is back with all four rotors over heating. The abs/esp/bas lights are on and will not go off. Something is causing all four calipers to not fully release, keeping just enough drag on the rotors to heat them up. Furthermore my jk has 71k miles on it and is on it's third set of rear pads, the front pads are still factory and have 3/4 of the pad left.....shouldn't it be the exact opposite? Anyone experience anything like this/know a solution? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
when you cleaned the calipers, how were guide pins? when I changed out my rotors, I had 1 lower guide pin siezed up on each rear side due to ripped guide pin boots.. and I was @ 41k. this caused me to not seat my new pads right..

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post #3 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 09:36 AM
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Rotors do get hot from braking, so what to you mean by hot are they turning blue or is there smoke coming from them.

As to the abs light and stuff you need to have the dealer recalibate and initialize the system with the scan tool to get ride of those lights.
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post #4 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 09:59 AM
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Have you modded the suspension in a way that would make the ESP think you are sliding/entering a skid? That's a fairly common problem, and not too hard to fix.
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post #5 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 10:09 AM
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new ABS computer has to be initialized by dealer with starscan or the lights will stay on

as far as fixing the other problems, like they said - make sure the calipers float on the pins freely - esp since you say it does it with the J7 fuse pulled

another thought - with ABS problems, check your unit bearings, with 71K miles on it they're probably not in too good of shape
when the bearings start to go - they cover the wheel speed sensors with crud - burnt grease, powdered bearing, etc
also they melt when the bearings are shot and the hub heats up from friction
try jacking it up and see if your wheels wobble
the sensors are easy to check/clean - 1x 5mm allen bolt then pull it out, wipe it off and reinstall.

3 sets of rears in 71K miles isnt too horrible on a JK, these things eat rears.

when one of my bearings was shot and it killed the WSS, my ABS started fighting me with the brakes and all kinds of crazy stuff.

its awesome driving a lifted jeep at 50-60 MPH and when you touch the gas, it pegs JUST the right front brake....


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post #6 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 01:36 PM
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what's about maybe emergency brake adjustment? I have minor issue with my rear right rotor not sitting flush on the axle which was causing it to rub on the E brake pads and not spin freely... i narrowed down the issue to one of the rotor wheel holes was rubbing on the stud and not letting I sit flush..

this situation was when I was putting rebel brake kit on my rear 60..

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post #7 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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The pins on the calipers slide great. Anytime I change brakes I use plenty of CAT anti sieze. I have not checked the sensors at all, I'll try that in the morning. The suspension is stock, however I did go to a 265 all-terrain from the stock 225 wranglers. I believe the 265's are about a 31-32" tire. Thanks so much for the help, I'll post back as soon as I get done checking the sensors, thanks again.
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post #8 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 03:02 PM
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like andre said, might as well check for e-brake draggin while you're at it


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post #9 of 22 Old 05-22-2011, 03:10 PM
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like andre said, might as well check for e-brake draggin while you're at it
Thanks Venon, doesn't hurt to look over everything while the wheels off..

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post #10 of 22 Old 05-24-2011, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Both rear wheel sensors are scratched all to heel. I'm guessing the system isn't even reading them. I can find the wheel sensors online, but I also need the connecting harness for the rear. The clips were completely frozen up so I tore them up pretty bad unplugging the sensor. Anyone know where I can find these?
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post #11 of 22 Old 05-24-2011, 12:55 PM
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Both rear wheel sensors are scratched all to heel. I'm guessing the system isn't even reading them. I can find the wheel sensors online, but I also need the connecting harness for the rear. The clips were completely frozen up so I tore them up pretty bad unplugging the sensor. Anyone know where I can find these?
They are a dealer only item and are relativley inexpensive (less than $20 each). They will come with the wire running all the way to the harness connection on the frame. On the front it is behind the shock tower, can't remember on the rear, but it is an easy fix.

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post #12 of 22 Old 05-24-2011, 10:43 PM
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My old truck had a dragging caliber that would burn through a set of pads in 6 months changed it and the pads lasted till I sold the truck and as far as I know they haven't been changed three years later

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post #13 of 22 Old 05-25-2011, 06:54 AM
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I'm have the same problem on the driver's rear side everything slides fine but the caliber just won't release all the way when I take my foot off the brake. I can reach though my rim and give it a little pull and it will move. so I'm thinking some dirt made its way past the rubber and is causing the piston to hang up.
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post #14 of 22 Old 05-27-2011, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to update. Had the new abs computer flashed at the dealer yesterday. They had to do the crazy circles and everything else. Just a note, they did this with the computer hooked to it. Anyway my front brakes are fixed but the back remains the same, pads drag just enough to heat the rotors up. I seem to have narrowed it down to the rubber lines on the back. Have ordered all four lines just waiting for their arrival. If this doesn't work I'm going to set it on fire and roll it down a hill!
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post #15 of 22 Old 05-27-2011, 03:44 PM
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the only time i ever had a dragging rotor, it was caused by a bad brake line on a '76 chevy 2wd. it was the standard reinforced rubber hose. a crack developed inside the line and acted as a "valve" on sorts... would allow pressure to the caliper, but would retain pressure on the line.

i confirmed it buy turning the bleed screw after stopping... (being careful not to get burned). there was so much pressure, it shot clean to the opposite side of the truck.


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post #16 of 22 Old 05-27-2011, 04:18 PM
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Had dragging rotors on my JK due to 2 problems.

1) While backing up in the rocks on a few occasions, I hit my calipers and put a bend in the slider pins. The slider pins bend surprisingly easy. Brake pad contacts the rotor while driving causing a grind/squeak that goes away when the brakes are applied. Checking these pins is as easy as pulling them out and inspecting them.

2) Bent axle flange or bent axle. Ive bent 2 D44 flanges and 1 D60 flange on my JK. Will heat up a rotor during high-speed driving in no time. You will also hear a rotational squeak that may or may not go away with brake pressure. In bad cases, you can see the tire wobble as it rolls, but usually you need to jack the rear up, pull the wheel/caliper/rotor and inspect the flange from the side while turning.

Good luck on your quest to solve this problem.
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post #17 of 22 Old 05-28-2011, 06:03 AM
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jack up the rear wheels and put on jack stands. spin them by hand and notice the amount of resistance
unhook your parking brake cables which I do not think have any adjustment in them
I have never seen a JK with adjustable rear parking brake cables, unhook them at the calipers, feel resistance again then Lower the Jeep then go for a drive and get the brakes hot.
jack the rear back up and put on stands and feel resistance again see if it has increased.
if it has crack the bleeders loose one at a time on the rear wheels and see if the rolling resistance has changed. This is where I would start. this will tell you if it's in the parking brake system or hydraulic system and pinpoint which rear wheel may be causing the issue.
you will need to bleed the brakes after this may as well put your rear hoses on at the same time. I have seen hoses collapse inside not allowing fluid to properly return but pushing the brake pedal will get the fluid past the restriction.
make sure there are no kinks or dents that may restrict flow in the metal lines I have seen this as well.
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post #18 of 22 Old 05-31-2011, 02:53 PM
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I just drop the jeep off at dealer. the caliber was on back order a friend of mine works in parts and said they been issues with them and their was national 45 on order and 8 on back order .
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post #19 of 22 Old 05-31-2011, 06:24 PM
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What did the dealer say when you discussed the problem?

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post #20 of 22 Old 05-31-2011, 07:44 PM
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I didn't have time to ask? I told them I change the pads and put new clips in and put the brake grease on the clips. I could reach thought the rim and give a tough and it would release He said Ok we been seeing some issues with them. Its still under warranty and they are putting a new caliber on. Ill ask tomorrow when I pick up the jeep
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post #21 of 22 Old 05-31-2011, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AOR View Post
jack up the rear wheels and put on jack stands. spin them by hand and notice the amount of resistance
unhook your parking brake cables which I do not think have any adjustment in them
I have never seen a JK with adjustable rear parking brake cables, unhook them at the calipers, feel resistance again then Lower the Jeep then go for a drive and get the brakes hot.
jack the rear back up and put on stands and feel resistance again see if it has increased.
if it has crack the bleeders loose one at a time on the rear wheels and see if the rolling resistance has changed. This is where I would start. this will tell you if it's in the parking brake system or hydraulic system and pinpoint which rear wheel may be causing the issue.
you will need to bleed the brakes after this may as well put your rear hoses on at the same time. I have seen hoses collapse inside not allowing fluid to properly return but pushing the brake pedal will get the fluid past the restriction.
make sure there are no kinks or dents that may restrict flow in the metal lines I have seen this as well.
You may want to read a thread buy ronjenx in writeups before you tie into the parking brake assembly. It could save you $60 and not having to take the center consol out.
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post #22 of 22 Old 06-17-2011, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Just wanted to post back. New brake lines were not the problem, I did however put a new master cylinder on it and rebuild both rear calipers. I am almpst convinced that something contaminated my brake system as the o ring on the back of the old master cylinder was almost gone and the fluid that came out of it was almost black! The pistons in the calipers weren't in the best of shape either. So after almost rebuilding my entire brake system the problem has been solved. What a headache! Anyway just wanted to followup with the results, thanks for all your help, lovin' the forum.
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