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post #1 of 16 Old 05-21-2011, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Help spending budget.

I have had my JK for a year and have still yet to truly wheel it. I have already dumped a bit into it. I want to spend right at $2000, and then likely trying to stop the addiction and enjoy the JK as is till the Summer of 2012.

Right now its a 2 door on a TF 2.5 coil lift. 6 speed with 3.73 gears. I have jks discos and a front TF adjustable trackbar. I currently have zero shakes, shimmies, or wobbles.

The jeep nets 8-10,000 miles per year. It is not a daily driver and I have no real concerns for gas mileage. Its used to drive on Carolina Beach and to a few hiking areas. I want to get it to Uwharrie in the next month or so.

My current thoughts:
33" duratracs
front LCAs
Rear trackbar

Or:
33"duratracs
front and rear driveshafts

Or:
35" duratracs w/ gussets and sleeves
Explain to wife the need to spend more on broken parts as needed.


I guess the real question is: if you had $500-800 to beef up the drivetrain/suspension, where would you invest it?

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post #2 of 16 Old 05-21-2011, 08:58 PM
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Can I ask a few more questions...

You have the D30 front right? Why 33's? You will regreat not going 35's, I promise. Why in option 2 are you looking at Drive Shafts?

I think your on the right track here.

-Jason


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post #3 of 16 Old 05-21-2011, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I have the D30 up front. I honestly don't want to invest a ton into it as I would like to see myself replacing it with a PR44 or Rubi takeoff in the next couple of years. I would'nt mind gusseting and sleeving, but I don't think I want to spend the dough on gears just to replace it after another 10-20k miles.

I do agree I will want 35's, but I know that 33's will get me through most of what I throw at it in URE and I am concerned about the strain it would put on the current drivetrain.

The jeep drives great as is and could'nt be happier with its on road manners. However from the threads that I read front LCAs, rear uppers, a read trackbar, and drive shafts should all be on the upcomming list; just not entirely sure in what order...

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post #4 of 16 Old 05-21-2011, 09:23 PM
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Spend your money once.

Easier said than done, I know this...

2 grand to the good is one hell of a start and $800 would go a long way to beef up the front - don't forget about the cost of install unless you have the ability to do it yourself.

your current setup is nice - I would go 35s w/chromie shafts and upgrade the C-gussets which would eat the $800 and then a little for install.
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post #5 of 16 Old 05-21-2011, 09:25 PM
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I second the 35"s had 33"s then got 35"s now I'm thinking 37"s of 40"s its a cycle.. I would scratch arms you don't really have enough lift at 2.5 to warrant them..I'm about to go to 4 and I will need them.. as for drive shaft(s) I'd for sure do the front! Sleeve n gusset if 35"s then shafts or just pick up some spares..also armor is a good idea as well if you see any rocks! at the very least protect/move your evap canister


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post #6 of 16 Old 05-22-2011, 12:50 AM
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For sure go 35's. If you go 33's you will just replace them later with 35's.

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post #7 of 16 Old 05-22-2011, 06:44 PM
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x whatever on going with 35's...you'll regret it if you don't. There isn't too much at Uwharrie that's going to hurt that D30 if you beef it up. There's no need to address drive shafts at 2.5" of lift.

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post #8 of 16 Old 05-22-2011, 06:49 PM
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Looks like you're only obstacle to running 35's is your budget. You could very easily spend $1500 of that $2000 on tires if you go 35's. I'm not saying you shouldn't, but you need to decide whether you want to dive in a little deeper than $2000 right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nootherride View Post
... as for drive shaft(s) I'd for sure do the front!
Isn't the rear the one that needs attention first in the 2dr?


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post #9 of 16 Old 05-23-2011, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Looks like you're only obstacle to running 35's is your budget. You could very easily spend $1500 of that $2000 on tires if you go 35's. I'm not saying you shouldn't, but you need to decide whether you want to dive in a little deeper than $2000 right now.
Very True. I can go over the limit where needed, but I do want to keep from getting carried away. I would prefer to get it paid off before I go much over the current budget.

After reading around a bit my thoughts are to do this:

35" Duratracs - 1400
Guessets and sleeves installed - 300-450
LCAs = 300 (although not a problem, I want to ensure my tires wear as best as possible)

Regear next spring - 1000


Then replace driveshafts, axle shafts as they fail. Other than poor gas mileage and loosing the rocketship like accleration; do I run this risk of damaging anything driving 35s on 3.73 6speed for 10k miles?

2010 JK X 6-speed
Teraflex 2.5" coil lift, XRC8 winch, lod stubby front, or-fab tire carrier, rubi rocksliders
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post #10 of 16 Old 05-23-2011, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jeeperjkj View Post
Looks like you're only obstacle to running 35's is your budget. You could very easily spend $1500 of that $2000 on tires if you go 35's. I'm not saying you shouldn't, but you need to decide whether you want to dive in a little deeper than $2000 right now.



Isn't the rear the one that needs attention first in the 2dr?
Pretty sure it's the front that hits with an auto tranny.. My rear looks fine..front keeps me up at night tho lol


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Black 2008 x ,Dana30 Aussie locker,Teraflex C gusset's 2.5 Pro comp coils,Adj Rancho Rs9000's JKS quick disconnects,Jks Adj trackbar, 35.13.50.15 Toyo MT's on 15x8 MB Razors, K&N intake,Superchips, Magnaflow muffler,Optima Red top, Poison spyder ricochet rock rails,Solid diff covers, front Mopar rock bumper chopped, HD D-rings,Xrc 8000 winch, HOGG cut fenders!Bedlined interior, 130 watt kc slimlites
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post #11 of 16 Old 05-23-2011, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nootherride View Post
Pretty sure it's the front that hits with an auto tranny.. My rear looks fine..front keeps me up at night tho lol
Yeah I think with my manual I should be fine with the front for a good while. The rear is okay, but the TF lift is for a 4door, so the angle of the driveshaft is a bit iffy with close to 3" of lift.

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post #12 of 16 Old 06-04-2011, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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After comming close several times to ordering a set of 35 duratracs, I have decided to take it a little slower and do it right.

I found a set of Rubi tires/rim with a good bit of life left on CL for $500.
The rest will go to a set of LCA and then paying someone to weld on gussets, sleeves, and LCA skids.


I have put 9000 miles on the jeep over 14 months, so a set of half-used KM2s will last me a year or so and alow me to play around at URE without being afraid of destroying the front axle. Then I can re-gear at the same time I do 35s and actually enjoy driving it.
Maybe I am being an over-protective jeep owner, but I think slapping on a set of 35s and hoping for the best would likely be a bad idea in the end.

Thoguhts?

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post #13 of 16 Old 06-04-2011, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwain View Post
After comming close several times to ordering a set of 35 duratracs, I have decided to take it a little slower and do it right.

I found a set of Rubi tires/rim with a good bit of life left on CL for $500.
The rest will go to a set of LCA and then paying someone to weld on gussets, sleeves, and LCA skids.


I have put 9000 miles on the jeep over 14 months, so a set of half-used KM2s will last me a year or so and alow me to play around at URE without being afraid of destroying the front axle. Then I can re-gear at the same time I do 35s and actually enjoy driving it.
Maybe I am being an over-protective jeep owner, but I think slapping on a set of 35s and hoping for the best would likely be a bad idea in the end.

Thoguhts?
I think you're being over protective. It's a manual so would be usable. Not ideal, but usable.

Also, the Rubi tires aren't KM2s. However, what you have planned will work fine.

For what it's worth, a bone stock jeep can out wheel most vehicles out there and provide lots of fun, so don't fall into the hype of needing to do lots of things to it. Buy what you can and wheel it and don't worry so much.

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post #14 of 16 Old 06-05-2011, 10:39 AM
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on the driveshaft, it's an auto you'll need to worry about.

don't replace driveshafts until they give signs of blowing. it will help you save a few bucks initially.







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post #15 of 16 Old 06-08-2011, 12:14 PM
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I've heard that the front driveshaft will only hit the tranny skid if your lift is over 3in. I have a 3.5in lift and mine tore to boot the first time out. My dad has a 2.5in teraflex lift and he hasn't had any problems.
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-08-2011, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by the1904jk View Post
I've heard that the front driveshaft will only hit the tranny skid if your lift is over 3in. I have a 3.5in lift and mine tore to boot the first time out. My dad has a 2.5in teraflex lift and he hasn't had any problems.
lol someone lied to you.

its not the amount of lift you have. its how you off road, disconnected, long travel shocks and so on.


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