Teraflex Rear Lower Track Bar Bracket - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-12-2011, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Teraflex Rear Lower Track Bar Bracket

How do I know which hole to use on the bracket out of the 3? I just used the middle one and it seems to handle so much better then before I installed this. Since I have a lot of weight up high, I was wondering if moving it up more would make it even better?

I have 4" Teraflex springs in back, but they sit at closer to 3" of lift. Lot's of weight.
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-12-2011, 09:05 PM
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1) is your axle centered?
2) is your rear trackbar at roughly the same angle as the front one?
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-12-2011, 09:16 PM
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I think it's bottom 3" lift, middle 4.5" and top 6" lift.


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post #4 of 10 Old 05-12-2011, 11:40 PM
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Ben is correct, use the one that most closely matches the angle of your front track bar and drag link. FWIW, I have the TF 4" system on mine with the TF "Monster" front & rear bars, a Poly high steer system in front. I use the middle hole on the TF rear bracket to match the front angle.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-12-2011, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't measure the angle of the rear and front, but the rear is visibly more horizontal the front. Should I move it to the bottom one even if it is steering nicely. I put it in the middle, because I have so much weight up high (because of tent and rack). I thought it would help with the understeer and sway from side to side when turning or switching lanes.

Axle is centered though
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-13-2011, 05:38 AM
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Try the lower one and see if the axle is centered and if the handling doesn't improve.
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-13-2011, 06:10 AM
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The angle is irrelevant (sort of..) the three holes are as stated previously for 3, 4.5 and 6 inch lifts. The holes are not 3, 4.5 and 6 in higher than stock, this is because they are also not perfectly in line with the stock hole. The 6 inch hole is bout 1/4 in across from the stock hole to correct the axle position without actually raising the track bar 6 inches. If it did raise 6 inches it would foul with the chassis.

What you are really looking for is the diff to be centered. So try the middle hole and measure the outer edge of the tyres to chassis both sides, then try the other holes. The one that has the closest measurements both sides is the one you want.

If you went for an adjustable trackbar as well then you can just go for the highest hole and then adjust the track bar for axle centred. Lifting the trackbar (making it closer to horizontal) improves the handling by reducing the bumpsteer, or the amount the axle moves sideways when going over a bump which makes the ride much more pleasant.

Had mine in the centre hole with just under 3 in lift but had to drop it to the lowest hole to get the axle closest to centre.

Last edited by SeaComms; 05-13-2011 at 06:14 AM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-13-2011, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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I do have a JKS adjustable trackbar, that I adjusted for the second hole to be centered on the axle. If I get some time today I will recenter it to the bottom hole and see how it feels.
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-13-2011, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaComms View Post
The angle is irrelevant (sort of..)
Not at all, the suspension wants the deflect at the same rates front & rear. You'll get a distinctive "jiggle" to the suspension travel if the angles aren't fairly close. All this assumes the axles are centered properly as well.
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-13-2011, 10:31 PM
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I will disagree with that one You will get the jiggle regardless as the front and rear axles deflect in the opposite directions under load. Besides, under normal driving it would be very rare to have both front and rear suspension compress at the same time.

Take a bump in the road for example - front hits and compresses pushing the chassis one way then back to normal, then the rear hits pushing the chassis the opposite way then back to normal. Moving the rear trackbar to its highest setting (then recentering by way of adjustable trackbar) will have the rear moving much lass then the front in this scenario therfore reducing the jiggle to mostly front only.

Only reason you cant simply lift the front trackbar is that it must remain as parallel as possible to the draglink to stop the steering position changing as the suspension compresses, creating bump steer. If you do lift the track bar to level it out you must also lift the drag link end (ie tie rod flip at the wheel end or an extended drop pitman arm which I dont recommended).
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