Talked with a guy at True Hi9 for a while and he has me convinced that this is the stoutest setup to run. I was thinking about getting the Currie F9 housing and filling it with the True Hi9 center section. Mines a 4 dr so driveshaft angle isn't a big concern, just another perk. The claim that this is stronger than a hi pinion 60 is what got me. A RJIII or G2 can be had for a deal, but I'd rather save another $1200 if this is better. The funds are burning a hole so I'd like to get some more info on this. I'm needing something since I removed the locker from this 44. A 44 used to be pretty good, but this overweight new Jeep has broken 2 shafts and a gear set in the year that I've been running it. Is the Currie RJIII good enough? Is there anyone on here that is running the True Hi9?

I am currently gathering the info for my 9 build and I honestly see no point in a Hi-9 in a JK rear unless you are already having driveline issues. A regular 9 with the same money thrown at it will make it its bitch.

As for the housing, for my money I would rather run a spidertrax , ruffstuff or a Diamond if you want to throw cash
Right now I am figuring the full float 35 spline with 5 on 5 bolt pattern. 5 on 5.5 or anything else is easy with 14b outers but I like my rims

Ask THECHAD, RUFFSTUFF rear and ford front.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51070

Currie would be a perfect bolt in with the truhi9

Or you can spidertrax, poly Performance bracketry and figure our the outers.

Dayum, how much money is actually burning a hole in your pocket? The hi-9 is certainly one of the best choices for a high pinion rear. I know it might be burning a hole in your pocket but I think you should keep searching all possibilities. Are you looking to stick with something that bolts in? What are you doing with you JK? Rocks, mud, towing with it?

I have set aside funds for the rear axle and have $3000 saved. The Currie isn't far from that. I'm just reading on the failure of HP60s and saw a local with a PR60 shell a ring and pinion. I know other people may be hard on stuff, but it needs to last and be strong. I like the 14 bolt idea as well, but I'd have to rely on some custom stuff to be figured out like the tone rings. To buy those parts adds up and the 14 bolt needs 2-3" cut off of it to be worth it in my opinion. Ballistic's 14 bolt shave kit looks good. I guess I'll run some more numbers.

CO4Lo just put a 14 bolt rear in his 2 dr, he has a thread on here about it.

I read that thread. Looks good, I just need everything to work like ESP and ABS.

If that's the case, Dynatrac can help you on that, they will quote on what need, not the axle it self, the do FF rear and JK friendly...

Be ready - MADE IN USA = $$$$$

reluctor/tone rings are not that hard to figure out or press on. You can retrofit the JK ones easily and has been done by River Raider and a few companies.
Then you just make a little tab for the sensor to go on and you are done.

That's how the chads are being done

tone ring has to be 55-57 teeth, right? Doc

I'm going to try the spidertrax full float end cups with the currie unit bearings in the rear to make a full float 35spline rear and keep the abs happy. I'm sticking with a low pinion though if I can fit it in the 2dr.

I believe it is 52.

no idea, I was just going to order a pair when the time came and modify them from there

I will add parking brake to this list. Anyone have some pics of theirs close up? Specifically a 9" running flaoting hubs with tone rings and factory parking brake cables/connections.

i have hi 9 front and rear on my 2 doors,60 outhers and 8 bolts on the wheels ,the tone ring is on it ,the hand brake soon,the truck ,iwill post pics later if you want that,sorry not very good in english haha

Might want to give Solid a call too. Seems like I remember hearing they were working on a tone ring solution. That on one of the drop out 14 bolts they are working on would be awesome.

I heard the Hi9 has had some pinion bearing failures. I did talk with Solid, and I have decided to wait a little later this summer for the new something that they said would be worth the wait.

don't bother with a factory parking brake setup. just order a pair of willwood parking calipers. simple mounting and you can get them in whatever wide your rotor is. They are also cable actuated so modifying your factory shit to work with them would be easy.
that and they are cheap.

Stopped by Currie last week to check out the F9 and was suprised to see that this one was full float 5 on 5.5. Nice setup.

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Tone ring has to be the same at all four corners - stock is 52 tooth, but there are lots of companies making 55 tooth rings.

I just put a 14 bolt in the rear of my JK using 52 tooth rings and posted some pictures of how to put it all together. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showth...293#post733293

look at the ruffstuff housing, waaayyy stronger than the currie f9..I will be getting a hi9 in January for the front when they go to the lower gears (6:20) depending on your tire size this may help you the 9" flange and the JK 44 are the same, just have to change the bearing on the 9" shafts, and take them down a touch for the tone ring, this makes everything easy, because you can use all the JK outers. and I am 5 on 5 bp and still have e brake

Not sure whats involved on the JK but on my last TJ I used a transfer case output yoke parking brake setup. It puts a rotor and caliper at the back of the transfer case. I was able to maintain the factory TJ parking brake lever. However the JK's parking brake system has no adjustments so it would be more involved making it work. Tom Woods and High Angle Driveline are a few companies I know that make this style setup. I know there was a Cadillac in 1970's which used rear calipers that had parking brake levers on them that works with the GM based rear disc brake kits
which in the Dana and 14 bolt world seems to be the norm.