37s - not the tires, everything else around them.... - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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37s - not the tires, everything else around them....

So I'm debating moving to 37s on my 2-dr. The obvious things are gears and a set of 37s. But what about the rest?? Where does it pay to invest?

Front D44 is ready for 37s - trussed, gusseted, RCV'd. No worries there.
Rear D44 is stock except for Superior evo shafts. Should be okay, I think.
Factory lockers in both.
1310 driveshafts. Wondering about these....rather not move to 1350s unless I have to.

That about covers it? Any other thoughts or areas of concern? The Heep in question is a 2-dr soft top with a couple hundred pounds of Poly under-armor, a winch, and not much else - back seat is out and no heavy bumpers.

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post #2 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 08:49 AM
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Looks good other than maybe balljoints

I can't see 1310s being a problem... mine on my tj are holding up with this kind of abuse with 40s and a stroker

YouTube - turkey trail

Jeepnicks are holding up well too with 37s and 60s (and he wheels the same stuff I do)

31 jeeps in... still have issues

Last edited by 2k2wranglerx; 05-06-2011 at 08:54 AM.
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post #3 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 09:05 AM
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Back spacing on the wheels.

You are looking for 2.5" springs so with 37s you would probably want the most back spacing you could get (I think)
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post #4 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Back spacing on the wheels.

You are looking for 2.5" springs so with 37s you would probably want the most back spacing you could get (I think)
Also true. 4.5 worked well for the wildpeaks...

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #5 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Defector View Post
So I'm debating moving to 37s on my 2-dr. The obvious things are gears and a set of 37s. But what about the rest?? Where does it pay to invest?

Front D44 is ready for 37s - trussed, gusseted, RCV'd. No worries there.
Rear D44 is stock except for Superior evo shafts. Should be okay, I think.
Factory lockers in both.
1310 driveshafts. Wondering about these....rather not move to 1350s unless I have to.

That about covers it? Any other thoughts or areas of concern? The Heep in question is a 2-dr soft top with a couple hundred pounds of Poly under-armor, a winch, and not much else - back seat is out and no heavy bumpers.
Driveline wise, you will be FAR more setup that I am when I go 37s. I don't think you have much to worry about. Bolt-on and have at it.

I'll be running stock D44s, just front gussets, and stock driveshafts.

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post #6 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 09:48 AM
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When I ran 37s with the factory 44 in the rear, I broke several Superior chromo shafts, but I didn't have a rubi so you have the bigger spline count. I went D60s and gave up on dumping money into 44s.

My 1310 JE REELS were fine with 37s, no issues. But when I went to 40s, I broke a couple of 1310s in Johnson Valley and have since sold those and went to 1350s.

The only thing I would watch is your Rubi lockers, which seem to fail more often as tires get bigger.

Rear pinch seems will need to be trimmed a little if you are running a real 37s (not a KM2). But this is a quick and easy job. I found that 2.5-3" of lift and tube fenders gave me a flexy little 2-door with low center of gravity with 37s.

Drivability: its funny that when you move to 35s, you really don't notice a difference. But that jump to 37s is where you start noticing the power loss, the benefits of hydro assist, the big MPG drop, and breakage if you don't take it easy in the rocks. At this point, your jeep has crossed the threshold of performing better off-road than on-road.
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post #7 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 09:51 AM
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Backspacing, fender hacking, throw a truss on the rear because you are bored gears and run it.
My 37"s on 5.13's feel about right with an auto


edit: ya, hydro assist..seriously..unless you have huge forearms
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post #8 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 09:54 AM
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Checkout my build thread.

Plannman has some valuable info in there as well.

But it sounds like you are pretty setup.

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post #9 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desert dog View Post
Drivability: its funny that when you move to 35s, you really don't notice a difference. But that jump to 37s is where you start noticing the power loss, the benefits of hydro assist, the big MPG drop, and breakage if you don't take it easy in the rocks. At this point, your jeep has crossed the threshold of performing better off-road than on-road.
That is a very good point. Seems like everytime I think about 35/37 next go-around I flip-flop. I just don't get out and wheel as much as I used to in Nevada. I hate the off-roading out here, it's hard for me to "cross that line", when I don't like the trails.

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post #10 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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Ball joints....yeah, those are on the list as well.

Thanks for the insight - sounds like I'll be pretty well set up as-is. Other than the overall swine of the drivetrain (which is already a pig with 35s) sounds like I'll be fine.

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post #11 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 11:13 AM
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Subscribed, I am on the fence with my 4 Dr whether to move to 37s as my 35s are almost done. But I don't have a nicely setup front end as you do, just a lowly d30 with gussets. You'd be fine.

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post #12 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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I'd be a little worried about turning 37s with a D30 in the rocks. My fear is that the R&P would become the weak link in the chain and that could make for a nasty break and some collateral damage as well, especially in a heavier rig like the 4-drs. I like that with a reinforced D44 the weak link stays the 1310s in the drive shaft....much easier and cheaper to replace. And, you can get it done on the trail lickety-split.

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post #13 of 19 Old 05-06-2011, 01:32 PM
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What about cryo-treating the gears? I've heard that helps out for those with a D-30. If you make the jump to 37's - it might be an option.
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post #14 of 19 Old 05-07-2011, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X-Defector View Post
I'd be a little worried about turning 37s with a D30 in the rocks. My fear is that the R&P would become the weak link in the chain and that could make for a nasty break and some collateral damage as well, especially in a heavier rig like the 4-drs. I like that with a reinforced D44 the weak link stays the 1310s in the drive shaft....much easier and cheaper to replace. And, you can get it done on the trail lickety-split.
how many r&p failures have you heard of??? not many, yea there are some but very few. I have 4 door ARB locked with 5.13 running 37's that weigh 90lbs per tire alone (no rim no air). I blew through 3 stock axles from breaks at the ujoint then busting the ears or lobes. Now I have upgraded to RCV, sleeved, and gussets. Didn't want to press it too much. Any beating on something for 3 years is bound to break something

don't get me wrong, yea the pinion is smaller , but hell, if you wheel hard enough on 60's with 40's you can still break it. I just don't think people should buy into the hype of the d30 being sooooo weak and fragile. I'm going on 3 years now on that d30. There will always be a weak link no matter what u wheel.

I completely understand your point of view, but this has been debated for several years now and still not many actually proved cases of busted r&p.

I finally ditched that "other" forum
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post #15 of 19 Old 05-07-2011, 01:34 AM
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Other than rim offset it sounds like you have it covered. I noticed a big change in 'feel' when I went from 32's to 35's. But from 35's to 37's, nothing seemed to change or feel different. My rig on 37's rides and drives great on the street and rockes offroad. Post pics after you upgrade!

08 2Door Red Rubicon. Rock Krawler 5.5 Longarm Coilover, Polly rear Coilovers. AEV hood & wheels, 37"KM2s, JE Reel 1350 shafts, 5.38 Yukon gears, Superior axles, Shrockworks stubby, Fab Fours rear, sPod, Rebel Offroad brakes, Warn winch and lots more.

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post #16 of 19 Old 05-07-2011, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goodysgotacuda View Post
That is a very good point. Seems like everytime I think about 35/37 next go-around I flip-flop. I just don't get out and wheel as much as I used to in Nevada. I hate the off-roading out here, it's hard for me to "cross that line", when I don't like the trails.
I hear ya. If I left Cali, wheeling wouldn't be as much fun.
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post #17 of 19 Old 05-08-2011, 10:53 AM
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Well after getting home 4am Monday from being broken on the trail for 12 hours, Im getting your setup for the front and rear end. I'm adding dynatrack ball joints for sure and Evo sleeves. I have 37s, 5.38, and blew up the LF axle shaft and ball joints.
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-08-2011, 11:36 AM
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If you rock crawl with a lot then a hydraulic assist steering would be good. We've broken all the stock steering gearboxes and sector shafts on our Rubi's. Same thing for drag link and tie rod. We beefed them up.

I love Wheeling, it frees the mind
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-08-2011, 12:29 PM
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I would address the steering. I did everything short of hydro assist. Poly - track bar, drag link, tie rod

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