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post #1 of 45 Old 10-17-2007, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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JK Skid Plates

As we JKers know Jeep left several areas uncovered & vunerable.

I am going through phase 1 of mods "Protection & Recovery".

I have found 2 must have skids:

Skid Row Oil & Trans Skid Plate
http://www.skidplates.com/Engine_07_JK.asp

Evaporator Box:
http://sandykorners.com/

What else is out there that is must have for protection?
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post #2 of 45 Old 10-17-2007, 07:24 PM
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I have the Skid Row plate and it has done it's job well.


I'm sure there are other companies that sell them but these ones were one of the first and I needed mine.

On the skid sure you can protect it, but I would opt for moving it first. Also note that mine is still in the stock position and I have yet to hit it. But I ran 35's for while and am now on 37's. Course now that I said something I'm gonna smack it.

Good choice on the protection first!
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post #3 of 45 Old 10-17-2007, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the info!

You mentioned moving the evap box...is there a kit out the? How do you do this? Where does go? & Could you use the Sandy Corners skid then?
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post #4 of 45 Old 10-17-2007, 07:35 PM
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If you move it like Doc did in this thread you won't need the skid.
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post #5 of 45 Old 10-17-2007, 11:38 PM
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Here are some sneak peaks our (Polypeformance) new skid plate. It is a complete replacement for the stock cross member. Made from 3/16 high strength steel. It is the same depth as the stock one, sorry cant make it any higher due to the exhaust. It covers the auto trans pan and bolts to the stock holes with two additional holes to drill. There will be an optional front section to cover the engine oil pan and cats. ETA is early December, sorry, don't know the price yet.

Last edited by GOAT1; 12-04-2011 at 09:44 PM.
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post #6 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 01:13 AM
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That looks really nice. I like that you used the flush style bolts and that the entire skid, with bolts, looks very smooth with no ridges or bolt heads to catch on rocks.

Will the front extension for the oil pan fit snugly to the pan or will it just be extended forward at the same height as the skid you've shown in your photographs? I'm hoping to find one that fits relatively closely to the pan.

Also, will the drain plugs for the engine and transmission oil pans be easily accessible without removing the skid plates (and hopefully without trapping large quantities of used oil when it's drained)?
post #7 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 03:59 AM
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Quick question on the topic of skids. Has anyone actually bent or damaged a stock gas skid?
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post #8 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post
Quick question on the topic of skids. Has anyone actually bent or damaged a stock gas skid?
Oh Ya!,,,,,,makes for a great Rock Slider. Straight shot, coming right off the SkidRow Eng/Tranny Skid right to Gas Tank Skid, I learned the "Art" of (How to High Center) & what that sounds like..
[IMG][/IMG]

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post #9 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nam6869usmc View Post
Oh Ya!,,,,,,makes for a great Rock Slider. Straight shot, coming right off the SkidRow Eng/Tranny Skid right to Gas Tank Skid, I learned the "Art" of (How to High Center) & what that sounds like..
[IMG][/IMG]
Sorry but I can't see any photobucket pics on this military server. I'm lucky just to be able to get into this forum! How severe is the damage?
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post #10 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcg View Post
That looks really nice. I like that you used the flush style bolts and that the entire skid, with bolts, looks very smooth with no ridges or bolt heads to catch on rocks.

Will the front extension for the oil pan fit snugly to the pan or will it just be extended forward at the same height as the skid you've shown in your photographs? I'm hoping to find one that fits relatively closely to the pan.

Also, will the drain plugs for the engine and transmission oil pans be easily accessible without removing the skid plates (and hopefully without trapping large quantities of used oil when it's drained)?
Can you see how the front kicks up close to the trans pan? The engine skid will lay on top of that so it will tuck up right under the oil pan and transmission. There will be a drain hole in the engine skid and baffles to direct the oil through the hole. To drain the T-case you can easily remove the rear section, the drain hole for the manual trans is right over the trans mount so you would have to pull the entire skid for that.

I am not sure what to do with the countersunk screws, we will have them on the bottom for sure but not sure about putting them in the frame. The problem is the factory threaded holes in the frame are a course pitch metric that you cannot get flat head screws for, I can get them made but they will cost me $6 each. What we did for the jeep in the picture is redrill and tap all the frame threads to 1/2 fine thread. I dont know if the average installer will be able to do that or even want to, you can use the factory bolts though.
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post #11 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 08:55 AM
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I say include the bolts or make them available but in the instructions for the install make sure people know that they can re-use their factory bolts if they don't want to re-tap the holes. I personally would rather re tap. But I know some others might not be willing to go that route. Looks good though. Keep up the good work on some really great products.
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post #12 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOAT1 View Post
Can you see how the front kicks up close to the trans pan? The engine skid will lay on top of that so it will tuck up right under the oil pan and transmission. There will be a drain hole in the engine skid and baffles to direct the oil through the hole. To drain the T-case you can easily remove the rear section, the drain hole for the manual trans is right over the trans mount so you would have to pull the entire skid for that.

I am not sure what to do with the countersunk screws, we will have them on the bottom for sure but not sure about putting them in the frame. The problem is the factory threaded holes in the frame are a course pitch metric that you cannot get flat head screws for, I can get them made but they will cost me $6 each. What we did for the jeep in the picture is redrill and tap all the frame threads to 1/2 fine thread. I dont know if the average installer will be able to do that or even want to, you can use the factory bolts though.
It all sounds like a nice solution. I hope to see it out soon! Maybe you could offer the $6 flat head scews as an extra cost option for those that want them - they are a nice touch.

Thanks!
post #13 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post
Sorry but I can't see any photobucket pics on this military server. I'm lucky just to be able to get into this forum! How severe is the damage?
Approximatey midway or middle got shoved up about 3" (concave)....it held up though, I just modded to look different now.

"Goat1" ...I like your Skids, definitely look like great protection & very slippery. I know a lot of people like the separate Skids & leave all the nooks & crannys exposed, but with the 4 Dr JK I personally want as flat complete suffice so I can slide over(when high centered) instead of having a rock stick in some opening.

Jim,
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post #14 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nam6869usmc View Post
Approximatey midway or middle got shoved up about 3" (concave)....it held up though, I just modded to look different now.

"Goat1" ...I like your Skids, definitely look like great protection & very slippery. I know a lot of people like the separate Skids & leave all the nooks & crannys exposed, but with the 4 Dr JK I personally want as flat complete suffice so I can slide over(when high centered) instead of having a rock stick in some opening.
I thought about making the bolt on skids but we have absolutely destroyed the stock crossmembers, plus you get hung up on the edges.
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post #15 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOAT1 View Post
I am not sure what to do with the countersunk screws, we will have them on the bottom for sure but not sure about putting them in the frame. The problem is the factory threaded holes in the frame are a course pitch metric that you cannot get flat head screws for, I can get them made but they will cost me $6 each. What we did for the jeep in the picture is redrill and tap all the frame threads to 1/2 fine thread. I dont know if the average installer will be able to do that or even want to, you can use the factory bolts though.
What about using the dome washers that you can get for some beadlock bolts? The raised dome things that protect the bolt head?
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post #16 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gib View Post
Quick question on the topic of skids. Has anyone actually bent or damaged a stock gas skid?
Yes, the gas tank skid is very thin. My tank capacity is greatly diminished. Most of my damage occured before the lift, but I am definately in the market for a thicker tank skid.

I'm sorry about using that other site to host the pictures but I was hoping the Gib would be able to see them.



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post #17 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorHead View Post
Yes, the gas tank skid is very thin. My tank capacity is greatly diminished. Most of my damage occured before the lift, but I am definately in the market for a thicker tank skid.

I'm sorry about using that other site to host the pictures but I was hoping the Gib would be able to see them.

Holy Sh$t Rotor,....you gotta bigger wound than me,...I see you took a hit further forward, I'll see if I can get that spot next time out. Yes, thicker would be the ticket, wait a slider that would be.

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post #18 of 45 Old 10-18-2007, 11:22 PM
 
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Wow Rotor I was gonna say "yeah I've hit mine and dinged and scratched it up" but now...... well...... I'm just not worthy.
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post #19 of 45 Old 10-19-2007, 09:04 AM
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Wow Rotor I was gonna say "yeah I've hit mine and dinged and scratched it up" but now...... well...... I'm just not worthy.
Well, it's nothing to be proud of. Most of the damage occured on this climb at Tellico. My spotter neglected to tell me that the ledge dropped off on the other side and I came down pretty hard on the belly. Then I had to winch the rest of the way up.

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post #20 of 45 Old 10-19-2007, 11:34 PM
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Wow, thanks Rotor, I can see those. And crap! I was hoping it would hold up a little better than that. That makes my old TJ tank skid look like it was made out of 3/8" hardox.
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post #21 of 45 Old 10-25-2007, 10:21 AM
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I saw the new Rock Hard skids at Pomona: look good, but seem a little pricey.

I'm waiting on Brad Kilby to "fix" his $9 bolt issue and release his skids (hopefully next week at SEMA). I like the flow of the Kilby skids and I've seen them in person take a severe beating.

Dirty Minion #6
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post #22 of 45 Old 11-08-2007, 09:50 AM
 
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Post Skid Plates

Quote:
Originally Posted by GOAT1 View Post
Here are some sneak peaks our (Polypeformance) new skid plate. It is a complete replacement for the stock cross member. Made from 3/16 high strength steel. It is the same depth as the stock one, sorry cant make it any higher due to the exhaust. It covers the auto trans pan and bolts to the stock holes with two additional holes to drill. There will be an optional front section to cover the engine oil pan and cats. ETA is early December, sorry, don't know the price yet.


Any more updates on the skid plates?
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post #23 of 45 Old 11-08-2007, 05:30 PM
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Any more updates on the skid plates?
Still working on them, I need to finish the engine skid before we make the rest of them.

Those of you that think you know everything really annoy those of us that do!
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post #24 of 45 Old 11-09-2007, 05:14 AM
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I will have to admit, at first I wasn't considering Polyperformance for parts on my JK, but now..... Guess I'm glad I waited on a few items.

Ron

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post #25 of 45 Old 11-09-2007, 07:42 AM
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does anyone know if the JK Rubicon need the same skids as mentioned in the thread above?
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