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Bent Rubicon 44 front axle, looking for advice

6K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  j3ff3ry_j33p 
#1 ·
Hello all,

I recently discovered that my front axle is slightly bent. The axle is a stock JKUR D44 with an Artec full armor kit (truss, gusset, etc.) and it is sleeved with (I think) Nitro sleeves. I'm still not 100% sure how I bent it but I believe it's been that way for quite some time now.

I also discovered that my drag link is bent (I think its a teraflex but could also be synergy), and that the upper link on my RK rear short arm 3 link is seized.

With all that said, I'm looking for some advice on what parts I should replace the broken one's with.

For axles my 2 options are:
Dynatrac PR44 with 1/2" wall tubes
The advantages to this axle are cost, and I would be able to reuse all of the internals from my axle which is in good shape aside from the smile
My issue with this axle is I'm concerned that it won't be much stronger than my trussed/sleeved stock axle was

Fusion 4x4 Hybrid 44/60
I like this option because it is definitely much stronger and I can reuse some of my current parts (knuckles and steering)
My issue with it is that it's about 2k more than the PR44 would be (I just ordered rcv D44 300m shafts but would return them if I went this route.)

My gut is telling me to go with the PR44 because the 44/60 is quite a bit more, and I live down the street from dynatrac so I wouldn't have to deal with shipping. However, if the difference in strength between the PR44 and my bent axle is minimal, then the 44/60 might be the way to go.
I'd really appreciate some insight on this.

For the drag link, the 2 options I've been looking at are:
Fusion 4x4 2.5T drag link
Yeti XD w/ attenuator

As far as the DLs go, I'm mainly interested in the strongest option. I've always liked the idea of the attenuator on the Yeti, but that 2.5t DL looks super beefy and I like the fact that it's 7075.
I'm not sure if this makes a difference, but I also have the PSC big bore XD2 steering box, synergy TR and Fox IFP steering dampener, and run stock wheels with 1.75" spacers.
Any recommendations or experience that y'all can share with me would be much appreciated.

For the RK 3rd link, if anyone has the specs on these, I'd like to build my own. I'm looking at 2x.25" wall DOM from ruffstuff, as well as heims, misalignment spacers and inserts. However, as i've never actually made a suspension link before, I'd like to hear from y'all if there's anything else that I'm missing.
 
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#3 ·
The PR44 is going to be way stronger than your factory axle with the so called truss, its not really a truss but these companies sell them to people and they buy them. They are a waste of money. I would use Fusion over Dynatrac as well and I currently have PR60/80 combos, but I understand the cost. I would suspect that your C's are bent and not the actual tubes? You can fix that with offset ball joints instead of buying a new housing. If you do buy a new housing I would buy one that is 68-68.5" if you are going to stay on 37's, it will give you better steering and eliminate the need for wheel adapters. If you ever decide to move to a 60 rear in the future you will like have the extra width in front.

Tube insert, jam nut, rod end, bushing end. I believe the RK upper link has a bend in it for clearance and a bushing at the frame bracket will keep it in place, use the heim or other end at the axle for the misalignment. Pretty easy to build, I do them all the time. Prefer using Barnes4x4 for the threaded inserts because they have a milled surface for a wrench and they are cheaper then Ruff Stuff but I do use Ruff Stuff all the time.
 
#4 ·
@Jadmt, I was told that it is bent by the shop that I had install my new PSC pump. They told me it is bent at the tube.
@thedirtman, going with a wider axle is definitely something I've been considering. Why would you choose the Fusion over the PR? Also, if its the C's that are bent, how would I tell that they are the issue and not the tubes as I've been told? Thanks for the info on the 3rd link, what kind of rod end do you recommend? I was thinking about using a heim but I've heard mixed reviews about using them on a DD. Mine is actually a short arm tough so there's no bend in the link but that just makes it easier for me.
 
#5 ·
Fusion has better lead times and is a well made axle. They also use off the shelf parts vs some of the custom only to dynatrac parts that cost 4x the money if you have to replace them. I just paid $430 for an outer 60 shaft that was 10.5" in length vs an 11" which you can get almost everywhere for $95. I broke an inner shaft a couple years ago and agin it was over $400 for that shaft. They do not warrantee shafts like Fusion does. Fusion also has a better warrantee. I do personally know Dan the owner as well.

Even if your tubes are bent they are not bad enough that you could not use an off set ball joint to put the wheels back into spec. Are you eating seals or something that makes you think you need a whole new housing?
 
#6 ·
If I went with the PR housing, it would be the PR44 which I think just uses the same specs for the internals as the standard NG D44 on the rubicon, so I don't think that proprietary parts would be too much of an issue unless I widened the axle like you suggested. In fact, I would probably use the RCV shafts I bought or have RCV change the inner shaft length if I went wider. Regardless, it's good to know that fusion has a good warranty.

Aside from what the shop told me, the only things that I noticed that could point to a bent housing are, 1. I get a weird harmonic/vibration in the front axle between like 75-88mph and 2. the camber looks off on the driver side. I did have to replace my seals a couple months after the hit that I suspect bent the axle but that could have been from carelessness when I replaced my shafts the first time.

As for the offset BJ, what more can you tell me about them? I've only heard that they exist, but know nothing of their durability or even where to find them.
 
#7 ·
You can get off set ball joints from most parts stores like NAPA. Your local alignment shop should know about them as they commonly use them to fix caster and camber. They should last just as long as any other ball joint should.
 
#11 ·
I learned the hard way that investing in the stock from 44 on a JK is money better spent on an angle corrected replacement housing. That said, there's no cheap way around what has to be done. Most 60 options are gross overkill for most people, but if it's going to see some abusive trails the extra beef is good insurance. Most folks will be fine with a PR44-ish replacement housing, upgraded shafts & stubs.
 
#16 ·
I appreciate all the input guys. For now, I’m gonna take it to an alignment shop and see what they say. If it’s just the Cs, I’ll probably just get offset BJs like @thedirtman said, but if it’s the housing, I’ll probably be looking at a PR44.

In the meantime, if anyone has any info on how the yeti xd drag link compares to the fusion 4x4 unit, I’d like to hear it.
 
#17 ·
I don't care for either one. The clamp bolt that stick out of the yeti suck and I don't like the rare parts ends on the fusion bars as they are heavy and flop around. Currie and a couple others use the rare parts ends as well.
 
#18 ·
What kind of DL do you recommend then?
 
#21 · (Edited)
I had your exact front axle setup in my 09 jku. Bent the tubes at the pumpkin. Mine is really heavy. LS running 40’s. I went with the pro rock 44 unlimited housing you mentioned. It has been great with no issues or problems. The corrected caster is awesome. It drives so much better than the stock housing. I have beat on it in the toughest trails in Colorado and Utah with no problems. I would recommend it to anyone I also am running rcv shafts
 
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