99-04 sterling 10.5 axle swap - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 33 Old 01-15-2020, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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99-2004 Sterling 10.5 axle swap

Hello, I have been searching all day and have not found anything, maybe I just haven't found it yet... hopefully someone can help.

I have been reading how the 05+ sterling 10.5 will crash into the fuel tank but no one is talking about the pre-05.

I have a 2007 JKU Sahara with a 4" lift runnin on 35s.
Once I do this swap I will be running 40s with a 5.38 gear

So my question is 1) has anyone done this swap? 2) will it crash? 3) what did you do to fix this issue.



Thanks in advance.

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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 01-15-2020 at 08:40 PM. Reason: cleaned redundant triplicate sentences cluttering post(s) I also merged.
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post #2 of 33 Old 01-15-2020, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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99-04 sterling 10.5 axle swap

the above is the exact same post . I merged into this identical one.
This was left sice Larry had replied to it .
don't duplicate post same thinh into different thread sections @Matt1114 .

regulars here will pickup on new posts in only one section.

I appreciate the extra work

j3ff3ry ( mod)

Matt

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post #3 of 33 Old 01-15-2020, 06:19 PM
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Stretch the rear back to get the narrow part of the pinion by the rear corner of the tank, cut the rear of the wheel wells, weld on your mounts to align the springs and all. If you desperately need more, you can purposely offset both axles a bit towards the driver's side. You'll possibly need to trim the front adjustable track bar if it can't get short enough.

It's not going to fit with tons of comfort space... But you'll figure something out.

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post #4 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 10:29 AM
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14 bolts are cheap and if you set up the gears yourself its worth $.

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post #5 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mmilburn View Post
14 bolts are cheap and if you set up the gears yourself its worth $.
I really dont want to do a 14 bolt, I got both front and rear axles for free and would like to utilize what I have.

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post #6 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by larry0071 View Post
Stretch the rear back to get the narrow part of the pinion by the rear corner of the tank, cut the rear of the wheel wells, weld on your mounts to align the springs and all. If you desperately need more, you can purposely offset both axles a bit towards the driver's side. You'll possibly need to trim the front adjustable track bar if it can't get short enough.

It's not going to fit with tons of comfort space... But you'll figure something out.

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How do I go about stretching the rear? Are you saying stretch the frame? Or move the axle back?

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post #7 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:29 PM
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How do I go about stretching the rear? Are you saying stretch the frame? Or move the axle back?

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Stretch with control arms. We just did a 60 rear on a 2 door (smaller than your talking about) and with the stock arms it's so close to the fuel tank that you can't put a finger between while sitting flat. If you articulate it driver's wheel side down, the track bar pulls it into the fuel tank.

So we went with Synergy double adjustable arms and pushed it back 1.25", this made all the difference in the world. The pinion snout gets narrower as you look forwards, so pulling it back buys a lot of room and allows it to articulate.

Your taking about an even large axle. So you may need to get a bit more serious about moving it back. Have you considered a Carbon Offroad Currie RockJock 60 rear? I would think that the installation would be much easier and require a lot less thought while giving a very significant increase in reliability over the factory 44?

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post #8 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by larry0071 View Post
Stretch with control arms. We just did a 60 rear on a 2 door (smaller than your talking about) and with the stock arms it's so close to the fuel tank that you can't put a finger between while sitting flat. If you articulate it driver's wheel side down, the track bar pulls it into the fuel tank.

So we went with Synergy double adjustable arms and pushed it back 1.25", this made all the difference in the world. The pinion snout gets narrower as you look forwards, so pulling it back buys a lot of room and allows it to articulate.

Your taking about an even large axle. So you may need to get a bit more serious about moving it back. Have you considered a Carbon Offroad Currie RockJock 60 rear? I would think that the installation would be much easier and require a lot less thought while giving a very significant increase in reliability over the factory 44?

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I have looked into those Larry0071 but I already have these axles, and got them for free... I really dont want to pay their prices is the big thing, trying to do a true junkyard build.

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post #9 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt1114 View Post
How do I go about stretching the rear? Are you saying stretch the frame? Or move the axle back?

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You can do both. Stretching the frame is MUCH more involved and probably not what you want nor what he meant. He meant get a stretch kit like JK 3.5 X Factor Long Arm 6" Stretch - Rock Krawler Suspension


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post #10 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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I really am looking for people to comment on their 10.5 axle swap preferably 99-04

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post #11 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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You can do both. Stretching the frame is MUCH more involved and probably not what you want nor what he meant. He meant get a stretch kit like JK 3.5 X Factor Long Arm 6" Stretch - Rock Krawler Suspension
So this kit will stretch the rear 3" and front 3" or a 6" for both, if you know. If not, thanks for the link

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post #12 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:48 PM
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You can do both. Stretching the frame is MUCH more involved and probably not what you want nor what he meant. He meant get a stretch kit like JK 3.5 X Factor Long Arm 6" Stretch - Rock Krawler Suspension
I fear that this fellow is attempting to dive into the deep end without fully understanding what is involved.

OP,

You can do a full on long arm stretch, but realize that you'll need to move the body out of the way. To push the 37-40" tires back, you'll need to clear the path. Also, to shove the front forward you'll need a stubby bumper and the front body mount is going to be an issue. Then your coils are not going to work out, the frame pockets stay put, the axle side moves. Front shocks will not be able to work in that factory shock tower. Like.... Everything needs to be considered. Doing this kind of thing is not a simple bolt on from a boxed kit. Your going to do fabrication and body work.

You don't want to afford the cost of a bolt in 60.... You should really reconsider your fantasy of SD axles then. It's going to get really ugly before you dig out of that.

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I doubt he is wanting to buy corners, fenders, a driveshaft, and a POS RK lift if he does not want to spend $200 on a 14 bolt. Let alone doing a comp cut on the tub that will ruin the resale value.

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post #14 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 01:54 PM
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someone mentioned on facebook cutting the tubes and swapping them. take the driver's side to the passenger and passenger to driver. swap axle shafts and it clears. anyone here done that or seen it?

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post #15 of 33 Old 01-16-2020, 02:09 PM
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I doubt he is wanting to buy corners, fenders, a driveshaft, and a POS RK lift if he does not want to spend $200 on a 14 bolt. Let alone doing a comp cut on the tub that will ruin the resale value.
He's dreaming of a bolt in engineered kit that will get this done for less than spending $4500 on a nearly bolt in 60 solution. I think that you, me and Ash are in the same page... These are pipe dreams that will turn into nightmares in this poor fellow.

You can't fit a square peg into a round hole without destroying the round hole first.

Yoda says.... Fantasy land, this fellow be. Hard hit, reality will prove.

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post #16 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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Fyi I am a prototype fabricator as it is, I have no problem cutting the tub, frame or whatever it takes to make the sterling fit. And yes I know I have to buy a drive shaft and a long arm kit. I was looking to see if someone has done this swap before and to see their out come.

I do appreciate the criticism, but was looking for help, if it takes me dropping this off at the junkyard and bringing back a 14B then that may be where I go... but I haven't researched enough to just throw in the towel.

As stated I got these axles for free and wanted to see if it is possible to use what I have instead of buying something off the shelf to just bolt it in...

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post #17 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 05:22 AM
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I would still choose a new style 14 bolt w/ factory disc brakes over the sterling anyway. The actual cost of the axle is the cheap part. I paid $150 for mine.
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post #18 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 06:52 AM
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If you are a prototype fabricator, then why not just get to mocking and cutting??

The answer is there arent a lot (if any) people who have done the swap using your exact axles but it isnt exactly rocket surgery either. Stick the axle under the jeep where it doesnt contact your gas tank and fab from there.

You will end up having to do some significant body alternations, a long arm stretch, spring relocation or coilover towers, and researching on how to get tone rings pressed on to that axle. Sounds like a prototyper's dream
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post #19 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 08:26 AM
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Exactly if yo are a fabricator then jump into it and post up the results. Why not just build yourself a new fuel tank that has better clearance? Limit the travel of the axle sideways to keep it from hitting the tank.
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post #20 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Exactly if yo are a fabricator then jump into it and post up the results. Why not just build yourself a new fuel tank that has better clearance? Limit the travel of the axle sideways to keep it from hitting the tank.
I didn't even think about making a tank... thank you for the idea. Once I build one and get the axle built and installed I'll post up some pics.

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post #21 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 11:03 AM
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I didn't even think about making a tank... thank you for the idea. Once I build one and get the axle built and installed I'll post up some pics.

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If you make a tank or buy a racing fuel cell for above floor mounting and then push the evap out of the way a bit, you can almost place it into the factory location.

If your going with longer travel springs, you can cheat the parking brake cables by dropping them under that fuel fill tube and crossmember. It will allow them to have much more useable length for big axle drop. Just dropping under the filler tube makes a big difference, that is what we did on this one that I stretched photos of.

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Originally Posted by larry0071 View Post
If you make a tank or buy a racing fuel cell for above floor mounting and then push the evap out of the way a bit, you can almost place it into the factory location.

If your going with longer travel springs, you can cheat the parking brake cables by dropping them under that fuel fill tube and crossmember. It will allow them to have much more useable length for big axle drop. Just dropping under the filler tube makes a big difference, that is what we did on this one that I stretched photos of.

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Not sure if I will need to stretch if I move the fuel tank out of the way... but you tell me???

I like this design but I think I will add my own touch to it.

https://genright.com/products/jeep-j...kid-plate.html

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post #23 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Just so everyone knows I have a 07 JKU 4 door 3.8L auto trans. I plan on swapping the engine for a 5.7 hemi and a 545RFE trans.

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post #24 of 33 Old 01-17-2020, 11:51 AM
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Not sure if I will need to stretch if I move the fuel tank out of the way... but you tell me???

I like this design but I think I will add my own touch to it.

https://genright.com/products/jeep-j...kid-plate.html

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That's what we are getting about here. If you move the obstructions out of the way of the axle, then you should not need to move the axle backwards into the obstructions of the body and suspension.

So make the gas tank and what not fit around the axle, and keep the axle generally centered under the factory spring pods and shock mounts and you should not have to deal with that.

Also by not moving the axle back you're not going to have to comp cut the tub, it at least you'll limit it.... you may have to cut the rear shark fin out of the wheel well, that will depend on tire size and where you actually position the axle.

Typically when people go with larger tires and factory length control arms you end up cutting the front side of the wheel tub shark fin.

You're going to be doing some ciphering as you go no doubt, you'll have to test fit things considered articulation and the effects that have on the axle has you articulate. Don't forget that as the left side of the axle drops the track bar pulls the axle to the right. as the right side of the axle drops and the left side goes up it slides the axle across the frame to the driver side or left. as your control arms travel their radial Arc your tires do not move up and down in a vertical pattern, they take that same radio Arc that the control arms are on. you'll have to consider all of that as you're figuring out tire size, axle placement, and obstructions.

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post #25 of 33 Old 01-18-2020, 07:29 AM
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Okay, sounds like there's a bit of misinformation in the thread here. In all of my searches I've come across at least one forum member that has a 14 bolt that hits their fuel tank so the idea of running one of those may not be the solution. If you have a sterling 10.5, take a look at the pinion housing and see if there's webbing you can notch, I've come across another thread with a post from a member that did that as well and it helped. You don't necessarily have to replace your fuel tank with a cell and Artec says on their website if memory serves that a 2" stretch is plenty to clear one. I'm going to look into the possibility of the center chunks being different between the different years of sterlings when time allows.
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