Bumpstops on rear...3.5 lift, mc arms, pr60...help please - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-09-2019, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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Bumpstops on rear...3.5 lift, mc arms, pr60...help please

Hey guys...something is way off my install. I am trying to stuff the rear to match the jounce cups, but as you can see, i am not even CLOSE before hitting the trackbar bracket, then the bolt. What am i doing wrong here?
(Control arms were set to metalcloak instructions for first fitment)
((Have no clue how to rotate the pic))

Thanks for the input
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post #2 of 15 Old 11-09-2019, 10:03 PM
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If your pinion is pointing too far up, it could be a simple as shortening your upper control arms. If not, it looks like you need to shorten upper + lower rear control arms or move the frame-side TB bracket rearward.

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post #3 of 15 Old 11-10-2019, 08:47 AM
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Curious what MC had to say?
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-10-2019, 09:05 AM
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Metal Cloak uses a staggered bump stop pad that moves forward as you stack them to give you clearance on the track bar bracket. You have three solutions for what you are doing. Either shorten the arms a little so there is clearance, move the frame side track bar bracket back, or modify your bump pad extension. Personally I recommend moving the frame side track bar bracket.

It also looks like you need to move your bump stop pad forward so the from bump will actually hit it correctly.
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Last edited by thedirtman; 11-10-2019 at 09:07 AM.
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-10-2019, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks gents! So, yeah, will get the offset bumpstops as well as well as shorten the arms all around.
@thedirtman : I dont have a competent welding shop here to move the trackbar frame side. (Let alone any real complicated stuff) If you would like to fly overseas and visit here in winter to help dial this whole setup in i would love the help &#x1f642; hahaha

I was under the impression that the pr60 was basically a bolt in swap from the stock d44...hence my reason for setting up new control arms via metalcloak recommendations....was i way off on my thinking? Do the larger axle tubes throw everything off?
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post #6 of 15 Old 11-11-2019, 08:32 AM
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The tube diameter of the 60 is bigger which will in turn push the axle to woads the rear just a bit. If you tried to compensate with the control arm brackets you would not be able to get the joint in it.

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post #7 of 15 Old 11-12-2019, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
The tube diameter of the 60 is bigger which will in turn push the axle to woads the rear just a bit. If you tried to compensate with the control arm brackets you would not be able to get the joint in it.
Ah! That makes sense....
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-23-2019, 11:38 AM
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I run UD60s with cloak arms, this is as simple as clearancing the bump pad for the tb bracket.

Do not start messing with arm lengths lol.

I run the 3" bumps that come with the evo bolt-on coilovers and all I did was notch them

Last edited by GR1P; 11-23-2019 at 11:47 AM.
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-24-2019, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GR1P View Post
I run UD60s with cloak arms, this is as simple as clearancing the bump pad for the tb bracket.

Do not start messing with arm lengths lol.

I run the 3" bumps that come with the evo bolt-on coilovers and all I did was notch them
ah...nice.
yeah, i tackle this again this thanksgiving weekend. Had to go back to stock for a few weeks as i needed to measure and order the driveshaft. (and as with all things, shipping to ehre takes a while...didnt wanna be out a Jeep for that long).

So, will update as of sometime at the end of this week.
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-02-2019, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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so, here is the update:
i ended up lengthening the rear lowers back to what they started at. (turns out the 20 and 7/8 was pretty spot on)...
but the rear uppers are ALL the way in. with this setting i get a -2 degree pinion.

I got the MC staggered bumpstops, but as stated by a previous poster, i had to shave off a little of the lowest one to clear the trackbar bolt. nothing major at all.

all in all, I wish i had an easier time with this...and i have seen posts where people can supposedly do this in 3 hours....it took me all of 4 days...so, i am wondering how they can do it SO much easier than i can.

Northridge sent the wrong style bolts for the rear driveshaft, so i wont be able to see if there is anything wrong for a few more weeks (they sent u-bolts, but the yoke they installed takes the strap style).

Anyway, this weekend i will tackle the front. hopefully it goes smoother.
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-03-2019, 08:38 AM
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If you would have turned the bolt around so the head was on the inside, you should have clearance. You say -2 degrees of pinion angle? So the pinion is pointing down?

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post #12 of 15 Old 12-03-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
If you would have turned the bolt around so the head was on the inside, you should have clearance. You say -2 degrees of pinion angle? So the pinion is pointing down?
that is correct. was i wrong to do this?
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-03-2019, 08:00 PM
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The rear pinion should point up just short of being straight with the driveshaft.

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post #14 of 15 Old 12-03-2019, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
The rear pinion should point up just short of being straight with the driveshaft.
so, i think thats pretty much where i am at. i will take a picture tonight and post. PLEASE advise on what you think.
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post #15 of 15 Old 12-09-2019, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballistik_monkey View Post
so, i think thats pretty much where i am at. i will take a picture tonight and post. PLEASE advise on what you think.


Rear pinion should definitely be pointed towards the transfer case, not towards the ground. It will cause way less wear and binding on the driveshaft
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