Driveshaft upgrade what kind & should I do both or one at a time? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Driveshaft upgrade what kind & should I do both or one at a time?

So my front rzeppa joints failed on me so my front driveshaft is currently off. I’m not planning on lifting my Jeep. But I don’t wanna buy another stock shaft that’ll fail over time. Should I get the U-joint type or get aftermarket rzeppa drive shaft? I do a lot of highway driving. Won’t be taking off-road so 1310 should do. Are U-joint ones always better? Or should I look for terraflex rzeppa ones? I talked to Curt for Tatton & Price seems to be the same ($680 shipped for both) but I’m looking for one that’ll last with little to no maintenance.

Also should I do both or just do the front for now?
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 04:06 PM
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Assuming you got around 300,000 miles out of the stock driveshaft. You will absolutely never be able to do better than another OEM shaft. They're zero maintenance and tend to run with less driveline vibration - perfect for the street. You can find them cheap and new on ebay.

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post #3 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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So this is my rzeppa joint on my front shaft. Of course anything fails over time. But are U-joint style always better than rzeppa joints? Also is it a “MUST” to change the yoke every time you do a drive shaft swap? I don’t have a lift and the proper tool to get the yoke out so it’ll be a pain in the a$$ for me
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 04:57 PM
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No, U joints are not always better. They're best for off road or lifts, where you're running the axles at big angles when rock crawling, and/or running the shaft at a consistently bigger angle like a lift on the street. No lift + low maintenance + lots of street driving + light off road = OEM rzeppa shaft. Unless you just want a ujoint / dc shaft, then whatever floats your boat lol.

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post #5 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 04:59 PM
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My stock shaft looks exactly like that after 70,000 miles stock street driving followed by 40,000 miles of ~4.25" lift and occasional off road.

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post #6 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 05:01 PM
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You can either buy a 3-jaw puller for ~$50 or rent one from local auto parts store.

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post #7 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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I won’t be lifting my Jeep so OEM would do for now. At least that way I won’t have to pull out the yoke. Do Sport & Rubicon share same front drive shaft? Any difference in manual or auto?
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 05:31 PM
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Been super happy with Tom Wood's. Did a ton of research and talked to them on the phone. After 15+ years with Jeeps, I now find myself going with really boutique shops. Find a shop that does not make hundreds of different parts, but designs their entire business around a part or two. Know there is not a lot of logic to this... good companies can make many different parts... but that's been my go to strategy and so far, so good.
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimjim540 View Post
I won’t be lifting my Jeep so OEM would do for now. At least that way I won’t have to pull out the yoke. Do Sport & Rubicon share same front drive shaft? Any difference in manual or auto?
I think they're all the same; just make sure it's for the same transmission (different lengths). I have seen different part numbers for '12 and up; they might just be various improvements. Recommend checking with a local or online dealer for a good number for your jeep. Might be able to find a take-off on eBay or something. Might find a good one for your year on Car-part.com. My local yard had one with only ~40,000 miles just sitting next to the wreck. Wow that Jeep was just about picked clean by the time I checked it out haha.

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post #10 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 05:42 PM
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong here...

Isn't swapping out for a flange-style 1310 (so he does not need to fuss with the pinion nut) a trade down from the stock flange-style that has a single (I think?) 1330 joint? If you aren't worried about binding the stock driveshaft why not just replace it with a take-off?

I don't want to be accused of being an ARB, so I'm open to corrections

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post #11 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I found one one eBay from a 2016 Rubicon auto. Will it fit my 2012 manual?
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post #12 of 15 Old 07-21-2019, 08:52 PM
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Probably. Online dealer has a shaft that cross-references to both auto and manual, 2007-2018 JK.

https://www.factorychryslerparts.com...2853317AD.html

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post #13 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 04:39 PM
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i have a Adams front driveshaft that bolts to the stock axle yoke, but had to change the yoke at the T-case.
Sounds like you should stick with the OEM

09' White JKU Rubicon with some stuff
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post #14 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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I have the front one from 2016 Rubicon Auto coming in few days. Now if I ever need to swap my rear ones to OEM as well does it make difference between the Auto and Manual? It doesn’t look much different to me one seller says it should fit all 4 door JKs but why are there different numbers? What’s different?
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post #15 of 15 Old 07-24-2019, 07:09 PM
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in 2012 they changed the auto trans from the 4 speed to the 5 speed. I would guess the different numbers are probably for different transmission lengths maybe, but I cant seem to find a length on the 12+ trans model
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