New here, JKU DTC issues...??? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-05-2019, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Question New here, JKU DTC issues...???

Hey guys and gals,

After reading half the JK forums on the internet, I decided to join one and see what I might could find out for my jeep issues. So here goes (with lots of detail to hopefully help).

2011 JKU, having some electrical issues. I'll post the current DTCs first then describe mods..maybe that'll help point out something I can't figure out.

Today, 6/5/19.. 8 DTCs:

P0456--evap system small leak (not what this post is about, but something I'll work on)
B1630--rt low beam control circuit high (what does that mean? high voltage detected in circuit?)
B162C--lft low beam control circuit high
U0184--lost comm w radio
B1638--rt high beam control circuit high
B1634--lft high beam control circuit high
B1640--front rt turn lamp control circuit high
B163C--front lft turn lamp control circuit high
(not a DTC, but also a symptom--horn inop but fuse OK)

Ok, mods by area:

Body/suspension/handling:
-- TOPFIRE FURY fiberglass hood (possible grounding problem... i'll come back to this)
--Iron Cross front and rear bumpers and side steps (not an issue, i don't think)
--20x12.5 Toxic Shok wheels
--35" Falken Wildpeak AT tires
--3.5" Rough Country suspension lift
--RC front and rear track bars
--RC dual steering stabilizer shock
--new steering box and pump
--a few other no-factor things like grab handle bars, Rampage metal door handles, etc

Elec/lighting:
--all audio components replaced and some stuff added (not really a factor here)
--LED halo headlights
--LED halo fog lights
--LED tail lights
--LED tag light
--LED front fender flare side markers
--LED front turn signals
--NO additional lighting like bars or KC spots
--all LED mods include load resistors built into each individual component (important factor)
--Optima yellow-top battery, for audio load
--MEAN GREEN 220A high output alternator
--tuned to 93 octane performance w mods by Flashpaq F4

OK, now... I don't recall when all the things started messing up, but in effect here's what's going on:

My horn won't work at all. Intermittent error messages saying my right front turn signal is out, or left front turn signal is out, or sometimes it'll switch back and forth to both according to which direction i'm using on the signal switch. Front turn signal lights are dim. I get a good bit of high-pitched buzzing/feedback when radio is on (SOURCE on, SOURCE off, either way.. stops only when POWER OFF is selected), and that buzzing changes pitch according to RPMs. Check Engine Light (CEL, for other newbies like me who didn't know what that abbrev meant at first) came on today and that was the last straw for my patience. I hooked up my tuner (SUPERCHIPS Flashpaq F4.. specifically for gas-burner jeeps) and read the DTCs (listed above, obviously).

Possible solutions? From all the things on forums and whatnot I've read today, it seems to point to a bad ground (the dim/false inop DTCs for headlights and turn lights, as well as dash error messages about turn lights out when they actually do work). I mentioned the fiberglass hood first in the body mods because I'm wondering if since it's fiberglass the ground to the hood (or lack thereof) could be causing some of the electrical issues? I also mentioned the yellow-top battery and high amp alternator because I read somewhere in a forum that with increased amperage there should be increased grounding... can anyone confirm that? I will very soon be securing some wiring under the steering column, as I often get a much louder buzzing sometimes and if I mess with the wiring under that area (in-line Powerpak amp is wired in under there) it stops, which might also point to a grounding problem?

I've been away from home for almost 2 years and just now coming back to the mods I've had done since I was away, and also the issues possibly caused by those mods. Sooo.. any smart Jeepers out there feel like pitching me some ideas on where to start? I'd be really appreciative. Jeep runs fine.. just trying to fix error code issues.

For anyone who wants to know what I've learned about the body mods I've done: adding the 35s onto 12.5" wide wheels caused some steering issues, so look out for that. The wheels are almost full outward offset (I dont know the actual number values) so it's WAY wider than before, which of course made it want to find the grooves in the road. I added the dual steering stabilizer shock hoping it would be better than the single stabilizer shock that was on it previously with the previous 2" lift. Didn't help. I added the front and rear track bars. Nope. It took replacing the steering box AND the steering pump to fix the unresponsive steering issue. So, that was a costly lesson, if anyone is looking for answers on that. Since my jeep is what I call a mall-crawler, or some folks call parking lot princess (I don't mud or climb), I didn't go for the $2000+ steering parts. The weight of the big wheels, big tires, metal front/rear bumpers and metal side steps (which replaced the plastic stock ones), in addition to changing the geometry of the suspension by going from a 2" susp lift to a 3.5" susp lift---all these things added up to some pretty dangerous steering issues. Also, by putting my jeep on 35s, I've caused axle gear ratio problems, and to have the axles re-geared is around $2k-2500. Mine is factory geared at 323 on an auto transmission...Keep those in mind when looking to add new stuff to your JK! The day I paid my jeep off was the day I started ordering stuff to add to it... take your time, make good decisions, and most importantly, ASK JEEP OWNERS! You'll save thousands of dollars in parts by spending some time in studying.

So, I asked for some help on some issues and I offered some "what not to do" help too. I hope that helps someone one day!
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-05-2019, 06:10 PM
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Problems like this can be really hard to find. I'll start out by saying it has nothing to do with a fiberglass hood, nothing grounds to the hood.

It's probably a bad connector, wiring harness, ground connection, or broken TIPM (they have been known to fail randomly and it's not all that uncommon).

You say you've not been driving it for two years, is there a chance rodents got in and ate through wiring harnesses causing shorts?

I'd probably first visually inspect all wiring harnesses. This can be quite a task since they're often hard to visually see, but spend the time to get visual access to as much as possible. Focus on the harnesses that feed the things you're having problems with. Look for cut up cables, cables that look like they could get squashed by suspension components, or connectors that are cracked, visibly damaged, or not completely seated.
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-05-2019, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! It's been driven while I've been gone (deployment) but not nearly as often, so maybe something got in it and snacked on my wiring? That's a good idea to check. Thanks for the advice.. I'll update once I get a chance to crawl in and under everything to inspect.

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post #4 of 8 Old 06-06-2019, 05:02 AM
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  • battery
  • ground

it's one of those



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post #5 of 8 Old 06-06-2019, 07:07 AM
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Easiest thing is test and fully charge your battery, tighten clamps. After that, follow your harnesses and look for frays, unseated connections. Pay very close attention to your tipm connections.

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post #6 of 8 Old 06-06-2019, 07:48 AM
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Look especially at the large electrical connector on passenger side by the radiator. If memory serves, your horn and front lights run through it (along with most other body lights, fuel pump, evap wiring etc...). Disconnect it, wipe down, shoot some canned air at it, make sure it's firmly reconnected. Disconnect battery ground before messing with it.

After that, id second the other guys and check tipm connections.

Good luck. Let us know what worked.

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post #7 of 8 Unread 06-09-2019, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
Look especially at the large electrical connector on passenger side by the radiator. If memory serves, your horn and front lights run through it (along with most other body lights, fuel pump, evap wiring etc...). Disconnect it, wipe down, shoot some canned air at it, make sure it's firmly reconnected. Disconnect battery ground before messing with it.

After that, id second the other guys and check tipm connections.

Good luck. Let us know what worked.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk


Update: So the whining/buzzing over my speakers has stopped... I took off the panels under the steering column and did some major cord management with zip ties and velcro ties. It needed to be done anyway because the audio install was kinda rushed (3 years ago). So no more RPM-dependent buzz/whine over radio when driving.

I decided to take a look at some of the grounds one day right before dusk. I disconnected, sanded/brushed, and re-attached the ones on the body between air filter box and body, on back side of passenger headlight, and the two on each side of body box under dash. Not sure what all those things are grounds for, but in the end, none of that helped my main issue. There WAS, however, a solid black insulated ground wire that was not attached to anything... it came out of the firewall just behind the A/C system and I have no clue what it was for or where it was supposed to go. I mentioned before I now have a fiberglass hood, so I'm not sure if it used to be a hood ground wire (but going into firewall?) or what, so I attached it to the neg battery post cluster just to see if that helped anything. Didn't help anything. So now I gotta figure out 1) what the thing goes to, 2) why it was disconnected and not secured, and 3) what it's supposed to be grounded to. I also bought an add-on braided grounding strap from O'Reilly's thinking maybe I have an old braided ground cable somewhere I could replace, but there's not one that I could see, but then again I didn't start this whole thing with much daylight. And it's been raining a lot in south MS so maybe I can get back under it this week. Need to reconnect fogs and halos anyway from when new bumper was installed.

Thanks to you all for your advice... I'll try those things and let yall know how it goes if yall wanna know! Cya

GuardDog255

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post #8 of 8 Unread 06-11-2019, 03:52 PM
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i would try by going back to the original lights. two friends of mind replaced their head lights with led and they had all sorts of strange problems i would say just try unplug them and see what happens.

Ruben

07 JK Rubicon - Banks Cold air intake and Monster exhaust - ARB front and rear bumpers - Warn 9.5Ti - OME 4inch JK Lift - 33inch MTZ

01 Grand Cherokee - inline 6 - Jeep Hitch Receiver - Jeep Fog-Light kit - Jeep Bug Deflector - Jeep Wind Deflector - Jeep Tow Hooks - Jeep Sub-woofer - OME 1 1/2 coils - Dynomax 2 1/2 Cat back - Running 265 75 16 - K&N air Filter and a modified air box



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Last edited by Valfam; 06-11-2019 at 03:54 PM.
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