JK build - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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JK build

I am looking at buy my first Jeep, a 2007-2010 JK unlimited. I plan on changing the axles to Currie Rockjock 60's or 70's, AEV 5.7 Hemi swap, running 40's and lift. Inside will change sets and take out the carpet. Does it matter what model I buy: Spot, Sahara or Rubicon? In the next four years the wife and I will be retiring and plan on trailing the JK to each state and do trails.
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post #2 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 06:12 AM
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No reason to spend extra money on a Rubicon if you're taking out most of the Rubicon features, like the axles. You will want to upgrade the transfer case though.

•|||||||• 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks
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post #3 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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So the Rubicon has a different transfer case then the other models? I did not know that. Thanks
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post #4 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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If I go with a Atlas transfer case, what gear option will I need for low. The axles will be 5.38 gear with ARB lockers.
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post #5 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 07:15 AM
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You are better off just buying one with all that. A bunch of JKs with that type of configuration are sprouting up as people move on to the JL. You wont be able to build one for what it will cost to buy one already built like that.


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post #6 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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I looked at what is out there for sale and I will say "People do love their Jeeps". With that being said, I think I could build one for around 30k for parts, plus another 10k-13k for a JK. I will be doing the work myself, that way if anything breaks on the trail, I will know how to fix it.
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post #7 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 12:56 PM
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I spent almost 30k just getting to 37s.

Axles and driveshafts: 8.5k
T case: 1.2k
Skids, armor, cage: 2.5k
Wheels/Tires: 3k
Lift: 4k
Snorkel, exhaust for performance: 1k
Steering: 2.5k
Brakes: 1k
Bumpers: 1k
Fenders: .5k
Tire carrier: .5k
Lots of other odds and ends readily totaling 1k.

Now that doesn't include D60s you'd def. want for 40s, nor the hemi swap.

I wish you luck...

•|||||||• 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks
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post #8 of 23 Old 05-17-2019, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Skids, armor, bumpers, tire carrier and cage I plan on making. The axles I am looking at comes with brakes and will check at auto recycling yards for Hemi and transmission. Also, maybe, for the transfer case. This will take a year or 2 to build, I plan on taking my time and get the right deal to build it right.

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post #9 of 23 Old 05-18-2019, 03:26 AM
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Given your build plan, there is zero reason to get a rubicon. Get a sport or sahara with the creature comforts you're looking for and start hacking. If power windows is something you're after, look into the TIPM issues that the earlier jk's have. Mine is an 07 and its finally acting twitchy with the window motors. Sometimes 1 will get stuck in the up position, sometimes stuck down. It's annoying sometimes. Roll downs would obviously always function. I wish they made more OEM half doors and drove the price down.

Good luck with the purchase and welcome to JKO.

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post #10 of 23 Old 05-18-2019, 07:02 AM
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I think you are dreaming on the cost of what you are looking to do. Even doing all the work yourself you are going to have way more than $30k in parts unless you are getting stuff for free I would estimate $45-50k + the jeep. I would look at the fusion 4x4 kingpin axles vs the Curries and I think you will find an LS will be a better fit then the Hemi.

Have you had a Jeep before?

As far as the Atlas ratio, what kind of trails are you expecting to run? With buggies? The the 5.0 if just tooling around on most trails you can 2.72 and there is nor reason you can't use the transfer case from a sport or Sahara. With the V8's out there most are running 2.72 factory cases.

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Last edited by thedirtman; 05-18-2019 at 07:09 AM.
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post #11 of 23 Old 05-18-2019, 08:29 AM
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5.38 gearing will be great for the stock Jeep motor but not so much for a v8.
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post #12 of 23 Old 05-20-2019, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Dirtman, this will be our 1st Jeep. My wife and I will be pulling the Jeep be hide a RV from state to state. It will be built for mostly for off road, there will be times when we will need to drive on road to get to a trail from a RV park. We want to hit all the hard trails in the US and do the ultimate adventure trail.

I looked at the fusion axles, thanks you for the heads up. So, a 2.72 factory case with 4.88 axles will be good? Do you know anything about the OX lockers? I like that you do not have to have 12volts or air to make them work.

From what I have been seeing, the LS will be more expensive the install then them Hemi.
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post #13 of 23 Old 05-20-2019, 05:33 PM
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Gearing is going to depend on the transmission you are going to run. No reason an LS should cost more then a Hemi, the LS has way more support and fits in the JK engine compartment better then the Hemi and dont have the over heating issues.
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post #14 of 23 Old 05-20-2019, 08:29 PM
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There are LS swaps with overheating issues. Might not be as many (don't know for sure), but they're out there. Engine compartment is just tight, especially behind the fan, LS or hemi. Anyone who says Mopar should have offered these things with a hemi from the factory needs to take a good look between the fan and crank pulley on any of these swaps. Now the JL/JT apparently has a longer engine compartment which was almost certainly (at least in part) to allow for more room behind the fan, possibly for the diesel and/or JT with extra towing capacity, or possibly the aftermarket lobbied for more room for their V8s...
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post #15 of 23 Old 05-20-2019, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
There are LS swaps with overheating issues. Might not be as many (don't know for sure), but they're out there. Engine compartment is just tight, especially behind the fan, LS or hemi. Anyone who says Mopar should have offered these things with a hemi from the factory needs to take a good look between the fan and crank pulley on any of these swaps. Now the JL/JT apparently has a longer engine compartment which was almost certainly (at least in part) to allow for more room behind the fan, possibly for the diesel and/or JT with extra towing capacity, or possibly the aftermarket lobbied for more room for their V8s...


I was able to push a 6.0 LS 3 inches further towards the rear than the 3.8 sat. With an electric fan there’s plenty of room in the engine compartment. Biggest thing for me was the AC pump, which was easily solved with a high mount bracket.
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post #16 of 23 Old 05-21-2019, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper View Post
I was able to push a 6.0 LS 3 inches further towards the rear than the 3.8 sat. With an electric fan there’s plenty of room in the engine compartment. Biggest thing for me was the AC pump, which was easily solved with a high mount bracket.
You have 3 more inches between fan and engine than the 3.8?

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post #17 of 23 Old 05-22-2019, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by KnightJK View Post
Given your build plan, there is zero reason to get a rubicon. Get a sport or sahara with the creature comforts you're looking for and start hacking. If power windows is something you're after, look into the TIPM issues that the earlier jk's have. Mine is an 07 and its finally acting twitchy with the window motors. Sometimes 1 will get stuck in the up position, sometimes stuck down. It's annoying sometimes. Roll downs would obviously always function. I wish they made more OEM half doors and drove the price down.

Good luck with the purchase and welcome to JKO.
Btw, the motors are clean-able. Had to do it on my 350z. Also, the switches can get so dirty, that you have to disassemble and clean the little ball bearings. 3rd, you can just have cracked solder joints like old cherokees used to have.
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post #18 of 23 Old 05-22-2019, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know anything about the OX locker? I like that they do not need air or power.
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post #19 of 23 Old 05-22-2019, 02:19 PM
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Does anyone know anything about the OX locker? I like that they do not need air or power.
Guy I know has one on his cj and loves it.

•|||||||• 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks
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post #20 of 23 Old 05-22-2019, 05:40 PM
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They have a cable or air option to operate. They are so good almost nobody runs them.

Where do you get your knowledge about off road vehicles?
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post #21 of 23 Old 05-23-2019, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Dirtman, what are you thoughts on lockers? OX, e-lockers or ARB?
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post #22 of 23 Old 05-23-2019, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan32 View Post
Does anyone know anything about the OX locker? I like that they do not need air or power.

I run an OX selectable in my rear diff. It's the tits.
USA made , high grade material & machining , shifting options ranging from manual cable into cab , air or electric switch PLUS the Drive-Away trick bit that is a spring-loaded shift-fork tool you carry and if you ever happen to have any shifter cable or hose or electricity issue, you can lock/unlock the OX with a box wrench in 3 min.

Plus, customer support from John, the owner , is outstanding.

I highly recommend the OX locker , in any variant. They are extremely strong.

FWIw, mine is electrically activated by switch on dash.


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post #23 of 23 Old 05-23-2019, 05:42 PM
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Dirtman, what are you thoughts on lockers? OX, e-lockers or ARB?
I use ARB but use whatever you want. An E-locker is the easiest way to go. Just had a go around with Eaton's customer service and was not impressed and they were not helpful at all on a dana 60 E-locker

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