Bump Stop 101 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Bump Stop 101

Can we have a class?
Anyone want to teach this class?

I personally want/need to get mine set up to whatís best for what Iím dealing with.

Iíve Googled and hit up the YouTube and there isnít a whole lot out there, what there is seems to be varying in opinions.
Iím not necessarily talking about ďhardwareĒ as much as the process of determining how much ďbump stopĒ one needs, or should have.

Does it simply boil down to getting on a ramp, finding your max flex, and taking measurements?

Judging by what I see under a lot of rigs, I know Iím not the only one that needs to be taken to school.

Bump Stop 101
Anyone?
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 06:30 AM
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What I do:

1. Disconnect sway bar links
2.Put one end on jack stands
3. Remove wheels to get full down travel
4. Remove springs (may have to temporarily disconnect shocks, etc)
5. Remove factory jounces / bump stop
6. Put one wheel back on
7. Jack up that side with the wheel
8. Carefully monitor everything, stop jacking up when something hits. Turn wheels full lock to lock to check tire clearance
9. Put bumpstop so you hit that first and don't damage things
10. Repeat other side
11. Repeat with jacking up wheels on both sides to check for collisions at different angles
12. Repeat all in rear

ē|||||||ē 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks

Last edited by chitown35; 04-29-2019 at 06:47 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 06:41 AM
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Addendum - Things I've seen hit to bumpstop for

Tires on fenders
Shock fully compressed
Springs fully compressed
Tires on bumper
Front Track bar on frame
Front Track bar on diff
Tires on fender flare support bracket
Tires on fender support bracket
Tires on front turn signal housing
Track bar bolt on spring (driver side)
Rear track bar on exhaust
Rear driveshaft on gas tank skid
Rear driveshaft on evap skid
Sway bar arms on frame tube end
Sway bar links on tires (Rubicon)

ē|||||||ē 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks

Last edited by chitown35; 04-29-2019 at 06:48 AM.
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Good info, thanks for taking the time.

?
Couldnít the same thing be accomplished on a ramp, with tires on?
I have access to a ramp, and it seems it would be easier than jacking/pulling wheels.

Also, Iím not sure about determining that shocks are fully extended/compressed. Seems thatís a very important reason to have ďbumpĒ set up correctly.
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 10:28 AM
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Yeah you should do the same thing in a ramp. Not sure how easy it would be to get to full flex that way though, without the rig being unstable. Or how easy it'd be to turn the wheels. Or check with both wheels up.

The best way is Metalcloak' s cti trailer IMO.

ē|||||||ē 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 10:35 AM
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As I've always understood it, your initial bump is set up according to how much shock up travel you have.

For my Rubicon minivan I installed the lift including shocks, got it back on its tires at ride height, and measured shock shaft showing vs bumpstop pad to the OEM metal cup. I then added bumpstops according to those measurements. I didn't worry about the added height of the OEM foam bump stop because they squish almost flat, hence the metal to metal measurement. I'm still 1/4"- 1/2" under bumped which is about the thickness of the bumpstop on the shocks. Short of stacking fenderwashers on the bump pads , I haven't figured out a good solution to add the additional height needed as I dont want to add another inch puck to the bumpstops.

I then used my ultra high tech flex checking apparatus (aka a two foot concrete retaining wall and a big ass rock on the opposite rear corner) to check all of the other possible clearance issues mentioned in the post above. I run 285/70/17 ridgegrapplers on 4.5" bs wheels due to daily driver status, and had no additional clearance issues.

Tl;dr.... protect your shocks from bottoming out and then flex any way you can for additional needed bump for clearance.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 10:40 AM
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There's a post somewhere around here where @SoK66 has a good outline of what he does to determine bumpstop. I followed his process. After I set bump stop I used my backhoe to dig some holes and build mounds of dirt to test out my bump stops.
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-29-2019, 08:23 PM
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Flex it out and take measurements. Too many variables to have a generic bump stop set up.

Some build info here:
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-30-2019, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Flex it out and take measurements. Too many variables to have a generic bump stop set up.


Well I guess I should have provided a little more info but I somewhat assumed most of the regulars already knew my situation. Was trying to avoid the redundancy.

Iím on the 3.5 MC GC, and about 80% done with a set of 35s.
Iíve upgraded my axels well enough that Iím going to try some 37s. I DD this thing so Iím fairly certain that the 37s are kinda a waste of money but I canít resist the temptation.

Iím still running the stock upper Bumps with 2 of the MC pucks on the bottom. (All 4 corners) Iíve had no problems with that set up on 35s w/stock fenders.

Iíve got fenders coming out of the paint shop, and the bigger tires will be delivered late this week.
So far it seems my fenders have been my limit and the current set up also seems to have been doing its job.

Bigger tires, fenders that offer more room, and recent upgrades to steering, Iím pretty sure that I really need to get the Bump Stop dialed in.

Im actually at the point that Iím willing to spend a little money on something aftermarket but wanted to take this class before I pulled any triggers.

Itís seeming too me that my ďshock lengthĒ may be my new limits but IDK, still learning.
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-30-2019, 05:45 AM
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FYI Just to give you an idea what you're looking at. I'm running 2" bumpstop with KM3 37s, MC 3.5" game changer.

3.5" backspaced wheels. Upper control arms at their shortest lengths in front, 5.5 degrees caster. G2 axle but I think bumpstop pad is just about same place as stock.

Getting to 2" bumpstop required:
Flat fenders, cutting off fender flare support bracket, trimming stubby bumper, and trimming fender support and inner fender liner. And I still have to disconnect my turn signals when I go off road.

ē|||||||ē 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-30-2019, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chitown35 View Post
What I do:

1. Disconnect sway bar links
2.Put one end on jack stands
3. Remove wheels to get full down travel
4. Remove springs (may have to temporarily disconnect shocks, etc)
5. Remove factory jounces / bump stop
6. Put one wheel back on
7. Jack up that side with the wheel
8. Carefully monitor everything, stop jacking up when something hits. Turn wheels full lock to lock to check tire clearance
9. Put bumpstop so you hit that first and don't damage things
10. Repeat other side
11. Repeat with jacking up wheels on both sides to check for collisions at different angles
12. Repeat all in rear
Makes sense to me. Will try to get to this over the weekend. Previous owner put Teraflex stops in. Not sure what else yet. Maybe springs. It will be good to know where I'm starting from though.
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