Weak Link: drive train. - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 04-22-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Weak Link: drive train.

Again, please pardon my ignorance, Iím attempting to learn as I go.

So, Iím pretty much in the middle of my ďphase 2Ē upgrades.

I installed an Adams front DS during phase 1. A rear DS is in my plan but I got to thinking about my ďweak linkĒ, Iím thinking that itís currently my rear DS.

Iíve got good aftermarket shafts in my rear tube.
Iíve sleeved and gusseted my front axle and installed RCV shafts.
Iím just spit balling but it seems that a rear DS is a pretty simple and relatively cheap trail fix.

My plan is to order a 1350 Adams for the rear. Whatís your opinion of what becomes my weakest link?

Do you guys purposely leave an easy/cheap ďweakest linkĒ, is there any validity to the thought?

This is my DD but I want it to be as capable off road as my wife/wallet will allow. I do not (yet) trailer to the trails I frequent.

Edit:
BTW, Iím aware that the plan is to build so you donít break, hence planning on the rear DS.

I just figured that sooner or later something is going to give.
Iím curious if anyone plans on it, and leaves something easy to fix.

Last edited by Pmedic920; 04-22-2019 at 07:03 PM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-22-2019, 07:08 PM
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With stock axle, chromoly rear axle shafts and a 1350 DS, your ring and pinion will likely become your weakest link. This may be a good excuse to justify going to ton axles

I'm probably going to get a 1310 or 1330 rear driveshaft for the stock D44 / 4.10 axle. The trick is to have a driveshaft that is close to the axle strength without going over...
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-22-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
With stock axle, chromoly rear axle shafts and a 1350 DS, your ring and pinion will likely become your weakest link. This may be a good excuse to justify going to ton axles

I'm probably going to get a 1310 or 1330 rear driveshaft for the stock D44 / 4.10 axle. The trick is to have a driveshaft that is close to the axle strength without going over...


Ok.
Iím running a 1310 front DS
Iíve re-geared to 4:56 (Yukon)

Are you suggesting that I stay with a 1310 rear DS?

Bottom line here, Iíd much rather break a DS than grenade a differential.
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-22-2019, 07:34 PM
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I would agree with sticking to a 1310 DS and making that your “week link”. And that’s exactly what I’m doing myself. It’s much cheeper and quicker to replace a U joint over a R&P.

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post #5 of 10 Old 04-22-2019, 08:01 PM
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I'd still recommend not going with 1350 unless you go tons and maybe upgrade the transfer case. The axle shafts and 4.56 gears certainly help improve your overall drivetrain strength (the gearing helps because for a given wheel torque, your driveshaft torque is lower). However, the pinion gets smaller / weaker with lower gearing. Also, there are still other components like your transfer case that may be at risk.

The question for me comes down to 1310 or 1330 as a match for the D44. Not sure but I think there are torque rating numbers out there for the JK transfer cases, axles etc. to compare to the U-joint torque specs. It's been a while since I looked at all that. Regardless, aside from the strength issues there's the question of how common the joints are. I think it's easier to find 1310s than 1330 or 1350, but carrying spares solves that problem.
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 05:12 AM
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I've been thru and over this on my Jeeps - particularly the Unlimited JK - countless times.

I have been in @Pmedic920 s exact situation.

I am off to work but can try to fill in details a bit later .

I think my lug studs are my weak link , lol.

I kept strengthening until I got to transfer case & even braced that. I'm pretty sure the ujoints within either tom woods 1310 D's would be what gave. The Yukon 5:13 R&P I had cryo'ed and shotpeened might be next since axleshafts are all 4140 .

It'll get out of hand trying to move that weak link. You're likely never gonna meet it but it seems from experience that it's preferable to have the axleshafts ( non-CSV) be cheapest/ easiest trailfix .

Hopefully you don't need to find out. 1310 rear on D44 Unlimited is more than ample.




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post #7 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 05:26 AM
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FWIW, I've run Tom Woods 1310 double cardans on my '09 JKUR for ten years. Other than some brinelling on the rear u-joint of the rear shaft I've had great luck with them, no breakage. I suspect the brinelling is due to the milling of the off shore mfd'd yoke, which I'll replace with a Spicer soon.

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post #8 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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Well, it seems that at least we have a consensus, in that a 1310 DS will be sufficient. That will probably keep my current ďweak linkĒ the DS.

1310 over 1350 will save me a few bucks as well.

Unless someone has a valid counter point, guess Iíll place my order, Iíll also get a couple of spare U-joints to carry.

Also makes sense to me, to have both DSs using same U-joints.

Thanks fo the input.

Feel free to carry on with the conversation, itís a good topic and Iíd love to hear how others have dealt with Drive Train ďweakest linkĒ issues.
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 06:41 AM
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I agree with everyone saying get a 1310.

As a side note, I recommend paying a bit extra and asking your shaft manufacturer to use a high quality sealed joint. The Spicer 5-1310X is a very good joint. The ones Tom Wood ships with (not sure about other companies) are not that great quality, and when you grease them it makes a huge mess and flings grease all over the bottom of the Jeep next time they spin. To be clear Tom Wood's company is exceptional, I only question the u-joint quality based on what I've read about what he uses (I didn't try to identify the brand/model of mine, but the joints didn't last very long).
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-23-2019, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christensent View Post
I agree with everyone saying get a 1310.

As a side note, I recommend paying a bit extra and asking your shaft manufacturer to use a high quality sealed joint. The Spicer 5-1310X is a very good joint. The ones Tom Wood ships with (not sure about other companies) are not that great quality, and when you grease them it makes a huge mess and flings grease all over the bottom of the Jeep next time they spin. To be clear Tom Wood's company is exceptional, I only question the u-joint quality based on what I've read about what he uses (I didn't try to identify the brand/model of mine, but the joints didn't last very long).



I love the smell of freshly-spun-n-flung Red-n-Tacky grease as it burns off of my catalytic convertors in the morning, tho' ....



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