Dynatrac Ball Joints and Needle Zerk Fittings - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-01-2019, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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Dynatrac Ball Joints and Needle Zerk Fittings

Hey guys, this is my first experience with Needle Zerks, the Dynatrac Balljoints (lowers) have a needle zerk fitting in them and while I am getting the needle in (seems like about 1/4") when I pump grease into the fitting (electric grease gun) it seems like all the grease is still come back out around the needle through the fitting.

Am I doing something wrong, or how the heck can I tell if I am actually getting any grease in there?

Sorry for the lame question but I don't want to burn up a new set of ball joints and I'm just not sure what I am or am not accomplishing here.
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-01-2019, 08:06 AM
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Might try lifting the front axle off the ground.


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post #3 of 11 Old 04-01-2019, 08:36 AM
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Are you using the really small needle fitting or the larger fitting like the one in the pic? On my synergy lowers I have the needle fitting and I have to press the gun really hard to get it in there.


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post #4 of 11 Old 04-01-2019, 08:48 AM
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On my g2 joints, I use the one in the pic above. I find the needle one just squirts grease everywhere. Again like 1/4", and I have to push really hard too but once I get in just the tip and pump a few times, it lubricates it well.

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post #5 of 11 Old 04-01-2019, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Mine is the really thin needle style so that may be my issue.

Thanks guys, I’ll grab one of these bigger ones and give it a shot.
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-09-2019, 06:45 PM
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I installed the Dynatrac Ball Joints in my JKUR six years ago. I've had the same problem. The grease goes in but the check ball allows the grease to push back out through the zerk. I use a small pick to push the check ball around and sometimes it stops before the mess gets too big. I grease mine with the Jeep on the lift so there is no weight on the axle. I'm not as young and flexible as I used to be so I don't crawl on the ground to do maintenance unless I have to. I have had no issues with the ball joints. As long as I see grease pushing on the rubber cups I know they are full and I'm ready to wheel.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-09-2019, 07:40 PM
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When I search for Dynatrac ball joints, the ones that come up have a grease fitting where the hole is at the bottom of a cone shaped depression. Is that what your Dynatrac ball joints have on them?

If so, the needle fitting isn't the one that should be used. That type of fitting requires a rounded nose on the adapter.[IMG][/IMG]
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-10-2019, 05:31 AM
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I contacted Dynatrac last year when I purchased their rebuild kit. I had problems keeping the boots seated when greasing. They basically said the joints don't need to be greased. I'm skeptical but may just replace at least the lower joint fittings with plugs.

My original check balls didn't hold up well over only 30k miles and monthly trail rides with lots of Tennessee mud. One of the balls was actually missing.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-10-2019, 08:20 AM
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A lot of needle fittings don't really work. None of the ones at my local auto parts store worked, all worthless garbage.

The Plews Lubrimatic 05-019 works really well, you can get it on Amazon. I haven't used it on Dynatrac ball joints, but I've yet to find a standard needle-fitting on a 4x4 part that this fitting doesn't work well on.
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-10-2019, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christensent View Post
A lot of needle fittings don't really work. None of the ones at my local auto parts store worked, all worthless garbage.

The Plews Lubrimatic 05-019 works really well, you can get it on Amazon. I haven't used it on Dynatrac ball joints, but I've yet to find a standard needle-fitting on a 4x4 part that this fitting doesn't work well on.
That one will work as long as it doesn't push directly on the ball. The ball should be moved only by grease pressure.
The really sharp ones will wreck the ball return spring.

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post #11 of 11 Old 04-10-2019, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
That one will work as long as it doesn't push directly on the ball. The ball should be moved only by grease pressure.
The really sharp ones will wreck the ball return spring.
I think it does press the ball, but it's large enough that it shortly thereafter bottoms out on the fitting long before the spring becomes over-compressed, sort of the best of both worlds. It's the one that's recommended by Tom Wood for the centering ball, which is just your standard needle fitting.
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