2 words for ya. Crush sleeve eliminator - Page 6 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #126 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by libordemise View Post
No definitely not in 4 wheel. It must be related to the locker... I recall now it still happened with my passenger axle shaft removed when i drove to work that way. With these new sensors, all was fine for like i said about 30 feet and then the abs tested itself a few times and the traction light and the abs lights both came on and stayed. I was really hoping this would go away after the rear gears were installed but if there is no wheel speed variance It seems maybe not.
You drove with the axle removed? I am willing to bet you toasted the unit bearing because I am pretty sure the stub shaft preloads the bearings, I know it does on the rear end of BMWs which also uses a unit bearing type set up.
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post #127 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tspevacek View Post
You drove with the axle removed? I am willing to bet you toasted the unit bearing because I am pretty sure the stub shaft preloads the bearings, I know it does on the rear end of BMWs which also uses a unit bearing type set up.
It's pretty common for when guys break axle shafts on the trail

And I would have thought the weight of the jeep is on the 3 12-point hub bolts not the bearing? Is the front considered semi float?

2nd edit, i know nothing about these hub units i ran my liberty without the CV in the hub as i was doing various different things to it and it was fine, I know they are different vehicles, I'll stop you all there, I did assume the hub assemblies would be rather similar

Last edited by libordemise; 05-28-2019 at 06:47 AM.
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post #128 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Tspevacek View Post
You drove with the axle removed? I am willing to bet you toasted the unit bearing because I am pretty sure the stub shaft preloads the bearings, I know it does on the rear end of BMWs which also uses a unit bearing type set up.
The front unit bearings on the JK are preloaded and secured from the factory.
They can be run without the stub shaft.
OEM Front Wheel Unit Bearing Study

2008 Unlimited Rubicon Automatic
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post #129 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 08:57 AM
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Wow, I've read the whole post. Please OP ignore anyone just bashing. It's getting quite old in these forums. I can build anything I try and doing gears every time sucks. It's tedious and just when you think you have everything going well, you have to take it all apart again. Few things:

Your preload is a bit high. The spec for Dana 30 is 12-15inlbs when new. Dana 44's are higher. I personally wouldn't tear it apart for 15 inch lbs but that's your call. I'd recheck them after break in. I did crush sleeve with my d30 and d44 when I initially did my gears and I did a CSE in the ProRock 44 I just built. For me CSE's don't gain you much. Pulling them on and off for changing shims is a pain. It's difficult to get to the shims and preload should be checked with the carrier installed with full preload once finished. The axles and tires don't change pinion running torque much but the preload on the carrier does especially before break in. Yes you definitely can precrush a sleeve for those mocking. When you use a setup tool as soon as the sleeve starts to crush the torque required to crush down to running torque becomes considerably less. It's no different precrushing in a press. For those that said run it down near the length required, bad idea an not necessary. Crush the sleeve in a press until it starts to move, then stop. Install and crush with the pinion bearing until running torque achieved. That's it.

The abs coming on is definitely not caused by the locker. Unless the front tires are chirping they are spinning free. The abs sensors are on the hubs and just check wheel speed. I damaged my abs sensor when changing my gears the first time with no visible damage to wire or sensor. Recheck the wires, unhook and reconnect the connectors, and pull them off the hubs to make sure nothing broke. It's very easy to snap them inside the hub. Recheck your steering wheel is absolutely straight at ride height with wheels straight. Finally replace them. I did fine with an aftermarket but OEM is always a good way to go.

Keep posting your symptoms and everything you've tried. Scan the codes (autozone will do it for free) and post up what you're seeing.
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post #130 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cduemig View Post
Wow, I've read the whole post. Please OP ignore anyone just bashing. It's getting quite old in these forums. I can build anything I try and doing gears every time sucks. It's tedious and just when you think you have everything going well, you have to take it all apart again. Few things:



Your preload is a bit high. The spec for Dana 30 is 12-15inlbs when new. Dana 44's are higher. I personally wouldn't tear it apart for 15 inch lbs but that's your call. I'd recheck them after break in. I did crush sleeve with my d30 and d44 when I initially did my gears and I did a CSE in the ProRock 44 I just built. For me CSE's don't gain you much. Pulling them on and off for changing shims is a pain. It's difficult to get to the shims and preload should be checked with the carrier installed with full preload once finished. The axles and tires don't change pinion running torque much but the preload on the carrier does especially before break in. Yes you definitely can precrush a sleeve for those mocking. When you use a setup tool as soon as the sleeve starts to crush the torque required to crush down to running torque becomes considerably less. It's no different precrushing in a press. For those that said run it down near the length required, bad idea an not necessary. Crush the sleeve in a press until it starts to move, then stop. Install and crush with the pinion bearing until running torque achieved. That's it.



The abs coming on is definitely not caused by the locker. Unless the front tires are chirping they are spinning free. The abs sensors are on the hubs and just check wheel speed. I damaged my abs sensor when changing my gears the first time with no visible damage to wire or sensor. Recheck the wires, unhook and reconnect the connectors, and pull them off the hubs to make sure nothing broke. It's very easy to snap them inside the hub. Recheck your steering wheel is absolutely straight at ride height with wheels straight. Finally replace them. I did fine with an aftermarket but OEM is always a good way to go.



Keep posting your symptoms and everything you've tried. Scan the codes (autozone will do it for free) and post up what you're seeing.
Thanks man. I've been trying to ignore some of these guys. Experience and knowledge always exposes itself eventually.

Where did you get those inch lbs torque specs? I am considerable high if your numbers are right. I'm actually at 32 in the front. Which was 2 higher than i wanted but from what I'd read still in spec..? What are you torquing the d44 at? I would take my front apart again if I was 16 too high
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post #131 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 09:33 AM
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https://www.crawlpedia.com/ring_pinion_setup.htm

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post #132 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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That is significantly different from all the lit. I've found...


Starting to freak out a bit... can anybody tell me that I'm in spec please? I have read some articles now that say 15 inch lbs is max. I'll call the dealer shortly

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post #133 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 09:50 AM
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To the original questions of the post - A crush sleeve wouldn't be any better in this situation but a CSE doesn't help much either. To fix this you need to pull the entire front end apart including the carrier so you can press the pinion through. Make sure you check running toque with everything removed. Use the difference between running torque with everything installed to add the difference once you add shims to the CSE. You'll need to replace the pinion seal as well. I did this exact thing after final install of my PR44. The running torque with new bearings was higher than with setup bearings. The only advantage of a CSE is if you pull the yoke or flange you can put it back on without worrying about the sleeve.
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post #134 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cduemig View Post
To the original questions of the post - A crush sleeve wouldn't be any better in this situation but a CSE doesn't help much either. To fix this you need to pull the entire front end apart including the carrier so you can press the pinion through. Make sure you check running toque with everything removed. Use the difference between running torque with everything installed to add the difference once you add shims to the CSE. You'll need to replace the pinion seal as well. I did this exact thing after final install of my PR44. The running torque with new bearings was higher than with setup bearings. The only advantage of a CSE is if you pull the yoke or flange you can put it back on without worrying about the sleeve.
Nice! Yeah I actually decided to go with the traditional crush sleeves only because the CSE are like 60 bucks and weeks out.

I liked the idea of pre pressing the crush sleeve just slightly but didnt bother on my dana 30. I have a powerfist 12 ton press and I dont think it will be able to budge the smaller dana 44 crush sleeve but may try. I bought a 3/4 inch breaker and socket haha just need a pipe now.

Last edited by libordemise; 05-28-2019 at 07:27 PM.
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post #135 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 10:40 AM
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I have a harbor freight 12 ton shop press and compressed both the D44 and D30 crush sleeves without an issue.
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post #136 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Welp here's what came up. I'm not sure how to interpret.

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post #137 of 175 Old 05-28-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Guess I'll check it and replace as needed
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post #138 of 175 Old 05-29-2019, 04:18 AM
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I got Mopar WS Sensor replacements for both fronts via Rock Auto,iirc. I have kept 1-2 additional in garage ,just in case ...good to have an extra since these models are so dependent upon them.

Hope this gets you all sorted out!


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post #139 of 175 Old 05-29-2019, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Things are pretty fragile, I was very considerate of all brake components.
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post #140 of 175 Old 05-29-2019, 07:18 AM
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If you don't want to just throw a new sensor at it right away, swap the front sensors and see if the code follows the sensor, if it does, replace the sensor. If it does not, you know its a tone ring/hub issue.

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post #141 of 175 Old 05-29-2019, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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With the 2 min research I just did I'm reading that a tone ring issue will trigger abs when stopping? My issue is the first few minutes if driving from each and every start up exactly the same.
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post #142 of 175 Old 05-29-2019, 08:54 AM
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Tone rings are in the rear. They exist in the front but are integral to your unit bearing. It's possible to damage it but highly unlikely. Like KnightJK suggested you can swap the sensors and see if the code follows. That will tell you if you have an issue with hardware or the sensor. As j3ff3ry_j33p said the sensors are pretty fragile. I keep an extra as well. I took great care when I installed my first lift and exactly what you're seeing happened immediately when I left the garage. Replaced the sensor and haven't had a problem since.

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post #143 of 175 Old 05-29-2019, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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If you don't want to just throw a new sensor at it right away, swap the front sensors and see if the code follows the sensor, if it does, replace the sensor. If it does not, you know its a tone ring/hub issue.
New sensor is in the mail I will return this one and call it faulty from factory, i am not switching the sensors and pulling my rotors several more times. I'm getting old.

New sensor corrected left abs code will hope right follows suit.
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post #144 of 175 Old 05-29-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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post #145 of 175 Old 05-30-2019, 05:39 AM
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New sensor is in the mail I will return this one and call it faulty from factory, i am not switching the sensors and pulling my rotors several more times. I'm getting old.

New sensor corrected left abs code will hope right follows suit.
Hope it solves the issue.

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post #146 of 175 Old 05-30-2019, 08:12 AM
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I'm sorry, I can't hold this in any longer. I think it every time I see this thread title pop up. In fact, I thought it as soon as this thread was started and almost posted a snarky remark right away, but decided not too because "tech" not "chat."

Crush Sleeve Eliminator is three words! I can't help but think of the line from Midnight Run: "I've got two words for you: Shut the F up!"

Anyway, I hope the OP gets his issue sorted out. Hopefully the sensor swap clears up the ABS problem. Then it's just a matter of tackling the rear gears.
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post #147 of 175 Old 05-30-2019, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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I'm sorry, I can't hold this in any longer. I think it every time I see this thread title pop up. In fact, I thought it as soon as this thread was started and almost posted a snarky remark right away, but decided not too because "tech" not "chat."



Crush Sleeve Eliminator is three words! I can't help but think of the line from Midnight Run: "I've got two words for you: Shut the F up!"



Anyway, I hope the OP gets his issue sorted out. Hopefully the sensor swap clears up the ABS problem. Then it's just a matter of tackling the rear gears.


I've been accused of making stupid ' old dad' jokes too much. Thanks for the well wishes. I'm confident.


***Could everybody who's actually installed their own gears please post their personal pinion preload specs they ACTUALLY set with their own hands?
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post #148 of 175 Old 05-30-2019, 09:18 AM
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For years have relied on the Yukon list of specs without issue on JK axles along with AMC and other Dana products.

If the spec doesn't say "JK" (as in "Dana 44 JK") then I assume it is for the non-JK variant of the housing.

https://www.randysworldwide.com/wp-c...tallManual.pdf

Keep in mind this should be actual rotational torque and not the breakaway measurement.
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post #149 of 175 Old 05-30-2019, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Oh boy
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post #150 of 175 Old 05-30-2019, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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I've read many posts on forums and multiple different sites saying 20-30, 20-40, 15-35 never such a low number as 12-15
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