2 words for ya. Crush sleeve eliminator - Page 4 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #76 of 175 Old 05-13-2019, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Oops meant to quote YOU Jeffrey jeep!!

Hey bud, I got my gears set up as good as I'd like, checked everything 3 times, pulled it all out and checked and rechecked again

The problem I am having is my passenger side axle shaft wont go into the torq locker no matter what I do. I tried to persuade it a few times and it closed the gap in the locker and I wouldnt dare run it that way??

I got the TL13227 model for next gen models, did you have any trouble getting the axle in???
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post #77 of 175 Old 05-13-2019, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by libordemise View Post
Yeah you guys are dumb and wrong. Preload is 30 inch lbs in the dot pattern is perfect and backlash is .005.
Dumb and wrong? You are the STUPID MOTHER FUCKER doing a gear swap in a public place. For being dumb I ain't doing to bad for myself as I have a nice detached 4 car to work on my shit in. I also have the right tools and do not look at ways to bypass the intended purpose of the crush sleeve. But it is not my axel. post up pics of the pattern, do not forget to post both driven and coast patterns as they are both equally important.
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post #78 of 175 Old 05-13-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tspevacek View Post
Dumb and wrong? You are the STUPID MOTHER FUCKER doing a gear swap in a public place. For being dumb I ain't doing to bad for myself as I have a nice detached 4 car to work on my shit in. I also have the right tools and do not look at ways to bypass the intended purpose of the crush sleeve. But it is not my axel. post up pics of the pattern, do not forget to post both driven and coast patterns as they are both equally important.
That's funny that you assumed I meant you, I was mentioning the people who are calling me mean names on the internet. Now it does apply to you. I rent an apartment. I have lots of different Bills. No garage. You couldn't afford a house with a garage where I live guarantee you that. Can you guys try and just post helpful productive things? I'm making due with what I've got. Fuck.
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post #79 of 175 Old 05-14-2019, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by justdifferentials View Post
Check this video out on the topic:



https://youtu.be/iZInF95qHX8
Nice, thanks for a relevant and helpful post. It does seem a better choice for guys who go into their diff often. I'm going to have to get a 3/4 breaker and socket to torque the d44 I'm sure. I almost broke my 1/2 inch breaker bar on the d30 lol
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post #80 of 175 Old 05-16-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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This weekend I plan to tackle the rear dana 44 in my regear project. I have a question about about packing the bearings... I read we are not supposed to because it can throw off the preload reading??

Obviously we dont pack them for the trial setup phase I mean the installation
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post #81 of 175 Old 05-16-2019, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by libordemise View Post
This weekend I plan to tackle the rear dana 44 in my regear project. I have a question about about packing the bearings... I read we are not supposed to because it can throw off the preload reading??

Obviously we dont pack them for the trial setup phase I mean the installation
The bearings in a differential are lubricated by oil so you would not pack them with grease. Drip some oil on them before installation, doesn't need too much effort here they'll be lubricated immediately upon driving just don't want them totally dry initially.
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post #82 of 175 Old 05-16-2019, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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The bearings in a differential are lubricated by oil so you would not pack them with grease. Drip some oil on them before installation, doesn't need too much effort here they'll be lubricated immediately upon driving just don't want them totally dry initially.
I shouldnt have said pack I did mean to say oil, but I was sure it was bad to have them dry until oil got back there. Thanks
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post #83 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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The bearings in a differential are lubricated by oil so you would not pack them with grease. Drip some oil on them before installation, doesn't need too much effort here they'll be lubricated immediately upon driving just don't want them totally dry initially.
Ok I have been troubleshooting this front end torq locker issue and I'm out of ideas.

I got a rebuild kit with a new carrier supplied that's the only thing I havent checked is for a problem with it. I have set up the gears, backlash preload etc all I spec, the torq locker is in spec they say 160 is ideal Im at 156

Because I have only done the frontt gears would that be a problem?? When I have the passenger side axle Installed the locker seems to be partially engaging or something causing a loud thunk when I turn the wheel either direction, I had a abs light come on so i thought maybe I was getting partial abs trips, so I cut those lines, not much difference but there was a sliiight difference.

I know the front doesnt engage when t case isnt so I am stumped. This is holding me back from rear install
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post #84 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by libordemise View Post
Ok I have been troubleshooting this front end torq locker issue and I'm out of ideas.

I got a rebuild kit with a new carrier supplied that's the only thing I havent checked is for a problem with it. I have set up the gears, backlash preload etc all I spec, the torq locker is in spec they say 160 is ideal Im at 156

Because I have only done the frontt gears would that be a problem?? When I have the passenger side axle Installed the locker seems to be partially engaging or something causing a loud thunk when I turn the wheel either direction, I had a abs light come on so i thought maybe I was getting partial abs trips, so I cut those lines, not much difference but there was a sliiight difference.

I know the front doesnt engage when t case isnt so I am stumped. This is holding me back from rear install
You did a front install and got an ABS light so you cu the wiring? the difference in the gears could have the 2 axels rotating at different speeds even if the transfer case is not engaged you have wheels rotating and in theory they are going to attempt to rotate at different speeds giving the gearing difference, I am pretty sure even if the transfer is not applying power the carrier in the Dana 30 is rotating with the wheels since there is no lock out hub on the JK front end. Manual hubs will allow you to disengage the front carrier completely when the transfer is not applying power to the front, Pretty sure you do not have them on your jeep.
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post #85 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Just assume that I checked and rechecked the sensors cleaned them, and finally decided I broke one during the work so I cut it so the hole in the hub would stay sealed and we'd be on the same page.

Do you know how much these torqs are supposed to click?? Mine seems to do it alot!
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post #86 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tspevacek View Post
You did a front install and got an ABS light so you cu the wiring? the difference in the gears could have the 2 axels rotating at different speeds even if the transfer case is not engaged you have wheels rotating and in theory they are going to attempt to rotate at different speeds giving the gearing difference, I am pretty sure even if the transfer is not applying power the carrier in the Dana 30 is rotating with the wheels since there is no lock out hub on the JK front end. Manual hubs will allow you to disengage the front carrier completely when the transfer is not applying power to the front, Pretty sure you do not have them on your jeep.
Oh! Also I figured the sensor was damaged because I was getting bad shimmy and traction lights while starting to drive every time I start it up from a stop, then after a bit the shimmy would disappear completely and it always felt like traction control was in it was killing my mileage
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post #87 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so in addition to the clicking sound do you guys feel the thing causing a little bounce as well?
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post #88 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 03:29 PM
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Oh! Also I figured the sensor was damaged because I was getting bad shimmy and traction lights while starting to drive every time I start it up from a stop, then after a bit the shimmy would disappear completely and it always felt like traction control was in it was killing my mileage
if the sensor is damaged or disconnected it is going to trigger a code for the abs system. cutting the wire is not going to change it. having front wheels and rear wheels attempting to rotate at different speeds is going to play hell on the system over all. kind of like if you would put tires on the rig with different heights front and rear. The traction control is not going to directly kill your mileage unless you had something funny going on that would trigger it with a wheel spinning faster then the other and it was attempting to slow said wheel down. a hanging caliper or worn out wheel bearing could cause such issues. the shimmy could come from a worn unit bearing sending bad signals to have the system getting funny readings and trying to correct the issue.
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post #89 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tspevacek View Post
if the sensor is damaged or disconnected it is going to trigger a code for the abs system. cutting the wire is not going to change it. having front wheels and rear wheels attempting to rotate at different speeds is going to play hell on the system over all. kind of like if you would put tires on the rig with different heights front and rear. The traction control is not going to directly kill your mileage unless you had something funny going on that would trigger it with a wheel spinning faster then the other and it was attempting to slow said wheel down. a hanging caliper or worn out wheel bearing could cause such issues. the shimmy could come from a worn unit bearing sending bad signals to have the system getting funny readings and trying to correct the issue.
Thank you for being one of the few people on here to help with a symptom. I had the passenger side axle removed so I could get to work and back that would explain the shimmy. Oh well, sensors are 30 bucks each and I'm just trying to get this thing back together at this point.

From everything I've read about the torqs they are supposed to be unnoticeable until engaged, this one is noticeable.
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post #90 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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Do you think having the front and rear rotating at different speeds would affect an auto locker in the front differential?
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post #91 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 04:44 PM
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Looks like you guys have this pretty well figured out....

Last edited by cjindna; 05-18-2019 at 04:55 PM.
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post #92 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 06:34 PM
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I do not think it is the front and rear rotating at different speeds as much as if you had a side to side difference in speed that would screw with the auto locker and push it to engage. I am not sure of the auto locker engagement and what causes it to lock, but I am sure it is based on a difference in pressure side to side.
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post #93 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 07:02 PM
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If you have a different gear ratio front to back DO NOT lock the transfer case and try to drive around. Something would have to slip, and best case scenario would be tires. But it would put a ton of strain on everything.

However, with the transfer case unlocked the front driveshaft will spin a different speed than the back while you drive, but the wheels will not be spinning (or trying to spin) different speeds, and should not mess with ABS or traction control.

I know some of the auto-lockers click when turning, but we have no idea how much yours are clicking to say if it is normal. Any chance you can record a short video of the sound?
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post #94 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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post #95 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Tspevacek View Post
I do not think it is the front and rear rotating at different speeds as much as if you had a side to side difference in speed that would screw with the auto locker and push it to engage. I am not sure of the auto locker engagement and what causes it to lock, but I am sure it is based on a difference in pressure side to side.
They are actually ďlockedĒ all the time, technically. Basically nothing causes them to ďlock.Ē There is a ratcheting system that allows one side to spin faster than the carrier, so when you turn the outside wheel can turn faster than the inside wheel, and the locker will ratchet, causing a clicking sound. So it does technically allow for different speeds between the two sides when the transfer case isnít locked, but the diff never truly unlocks. Neither wheel can ever spin slower than the carrier.
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post #96 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Welp. I put the rtv on and I'm running this tomorrow.

Next up; dana44 regear.
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post #97 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 07:50 PM
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*locker noise video*
Sounds fairly typical to me. I only have experience with one locker like that (in my cousinís TJ) so maybe someone else will chime in, but thatís about what I would expect.
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post #98 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by libordemise View Post
this sounds identical to mine when I had installed it. Not any difference. I love the TorqLocker. It makes a little ratchet sound but it's a bloody auto-locker; comparatively, in the realm of the auto-locker, it makes virtually no sound however, by design it's going to make more noise than the open diff.

Here is a video of mine on tarmac.
It may make a difference in the amount of noise from u-joint shafts to CV joints; fwiw, I run RCVs with it plus those G003 MTs were sticking to the blacktop in the video:


you requested some input from me on this on another thread so figured I would respond with what feedback on this subject that I could, sir. I hope that helps. You install looks and sounds solid from where I sit. But, i am just a dude on the Internet

I will let you know something you probably have already experienced; Erik and Cora that run TorqueMasters are solid as they come. If you require any assistance or want some confirmation that you've got everything kosher, just email or Facebook one of them., They respond and can help.

Yu'll love the autolocker offroad.


(edit: I saw your post about asking if there were a 'bounce' or 'bump" ; sure. it is an auto-locker. it ratchets and clacks and clicks but, again, this is about 60-80% less noise and ratcheting and clunking and bumping or slight bounce mid turn when compared to a Spartan or a Aussie lunchbox autolocker with the cups and pins. It will not be absolutely unnoticeable . If you read the literature it comes with it even says it is going to drive and behave a little different. I can attest to it really starting to mellow out after the fist 500-1500 miles. )

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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 05-18-2019 at 08:29 PM.
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post #99 of 175 Old 05-18-2019, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks bud, I agree it sounds good on the spin test but I am having behaviour trouble when the weight is on the wheels. Yeah Cora has always been great. I'm sure this will shake out.

Cheers!
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post #100 of 175 Old 05-19-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
this sounds identical to mine when I had installed it. Not any difference. I love the TorqLocker. It makes a little ratchet sound but it's a bloody auto-locker; comparatively, in the realm of the auto-locker, it makes virtually no sound however, by design it's going to make more noise than the open diff.

Here is a video of mine on tarmac.
It may make a difference in the amount of noise from u-joint shafts to CV joints; fwiw, I run RCVs with it plus those G003 MTs were sticking to the blacktop in the video:
https://youtu.be/-bsdiTur4eg


you requested some input from me on this on another thread so figured I would respond with what feedback on this subject that I could, sir. I hope that helps. You install looks and sounds solid from where I sit. But, i am just a dude on the Internet

I will let you know something you probably have already experienced; Erik and Cora that run TorqueMasters are solid as they come. If you require any assistance or want some confirmation that you've got everything kosher, just email or Facebook one of them., They respond and can help.

Yu'll love the autolocker offroad.


(edit: I saw your post about asking if there were a 'bounce' or 'bump" ; sure. it is an auto-locker. it ratchets and clacks and clicks but, again, this is about 60-80% less noise and ratcheting and clunking and bumping or slight bounce mid turn when compared to a Spartan or a Aussie lunchbox autolocker with the cups and pins. It will not be absolutely unnoticeable . If you read the literature it comes with it even says it is going to drive and behave a little different. I can attest to it really starting to mellow out after the fist 500-1500 miles. )

Ok I am at wits end thinking this cannot be normal please advise? I emailed customer support bit I am sure they are busy this is a busy weekend.

Here is the link for the vid

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