Please help with new sway bar links - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-30-2018, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Please help with new sway bar links

Hey gang, need to get new sway bar links and have some questions.

I want to keep stock sway bars and have the Rubicon smart bar with an evo manual disconnect. Running a 4" lift.

Trying to figure out what length end links to go with and I don't know if the last ones were necessarily the right length.

How do i want my sway bars oriented when the jeep is just sitting there, level? Do I want the bar ends, for example, parallel to the ground?

Should I find some fixed length end-links that get me close or should I get adjustable and really dial it in?

What brands will be the strongest as well as most reliable etc.?

Thanks
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-30-2018, 06:05 PM
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Slightly above parallel and I have run a few brands of links all adjustable. FWIW i have had the least amount of rusting/seizing issues with the jks adjustable.

They r not cheap but u can find them on special with a pretty good discount from time to time on amazon.

Here in NJ everything seems to get eaten by the stupid brine they dump daily it seems and these have done the best so far.

Teraflex and synergy both rusted to shit and had to be cut off.....

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post #3 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 12:14 AM
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What's most important is to confirm that at full axle droop, the link doesn't become parallel with the sway bar arm as this can lead to inversion on rebound and cause major damage. It's also good to confirm that at full compression nothing hits anything. The ideal angle is for the arms to be parallel with the ground at ride height, but as stated above usually the sway bar arms will point up a bit in order to meet the requirement of not inverting on extension.
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post #4 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks gents. I found this thread last night:

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/modif...bar-angle.html

Seems like +20 to -5 degrees from level is the way to go on the front. I am sort of there now with the left over bits from my original AEV kit. That kit has you move the OEM rear links to the front and then they have extension brackets. IIRC, it's around 12.25" total length.

Yeah, full droop and full stuff have me concerned but I have been good so far with the current sway bar angle. I'll work to keep it. I'm just pulling the remaining AEV bits off from my original lift and replacing them with new links.

What about the rear? The bar ends on the rear sway bar are angled down when the jeep is level. Does that sound right? Have not found info on angling the rear bar.
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 08:05 AM
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The rear is not as big of a deal as it cant flip like the front but you would want the links long enough for you to go full droop without the links holding you. If you can go full droop now with no issues then I woudl just go with links that were a bit longer so your sway bar can set level at ride hight. With just about any link that moves in an arc you are best off running them as level as you can.

You are not running 6-pack shocks right?
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback gents.

The front sway has been working flawlessly since I first lifted the jeep. So I will keep that link length where it is. What I will do is just replace the AEV bracket and shorter link with one, longer link. Metalcloack makes one in the exact size i would need.

On the rear, I think I might be a tad short on the links. Pretty sure I can get a little more droop in the back with slightly longer links. I'll have to go back and look but I am pretty sure that I have some flex pics showing the rear sway bar end and the end link as an apparent straight line.
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 08:43 AM
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Your links going straight with the sway bar arm is bad. Like said above you want them angled a bit at full droop.

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post #8 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Your links going straight with the sway bar arm is bad. Like said above you want them angled a bit at full droop.
I am figuring that with the heavier tons, that I will be getting a tad more droop. I'll tun up those rear link lengths.

The rear links can't be too far off as they came from AEV originally for their 3.5" and 4.5" lifts.

They send you new links for the rears and then have you move the OEM rear links to the front and add an extension for the fronts.

Those links and the bump stops are the only AEV parts left on my jeep.

Edit: and for simplicity/reliability, it looks like I can stick with non-adjustable links,
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 10:42 AM
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I wouldn't guess the extra weight of the ton axle would droop any more than the stock axle, unless you're running the stock arms with the clevite bushings. Are you also going to run the duroflex axle side bushings?

Last edited by rockystock; 12-01-2018 at 10:49 AM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
Are you also going to run the duroflex axle side bushings?
I am running all MetalCloak arms. Last time I checked, they only had bushing for the stock axle. Not the ProRock, for example. It was the PR that i called about a long time ago.

You reminded me to ping Dan at Fusion on that. Would be good to utilize that bushing if possible.
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post #11 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 11:37 AM
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You can also upgrade to the new kevlar duroflex bushings while you're at it. I bought my arms about a month before the new bushings were released; pretty sure I got the last batch of old bushings lol. Not sure what real benefit kevlar provides, time will tell...

Anyway the only reason I brought up the bushings is that the stockers will limit droop and flex but heims, johnnys, duroflex etc. Will not. I'm finishing a build going from stock arms to MC and now thinking seriously about limit straps to protect shocks, DS, and sway bar links.
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post #12 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
You can also upgrade to the new kevlar duroflex bushings while you're at it. I bought my arms about a month before the new bushings were released; pretty sure I got the last batch of old bushings lol. Not sure what real benefit kevlar provides, time will tell...

Anyway the only reason I brought up the bushings is that the stockers will limit droop and flex but heims, johnnys, duroflex etc. Will not. I'm finishing a build going from stock arms to MC and now thinking seriously about limit straps to protect shocks, DS, and sway bar links.
I sent Dan at Fusion a link to the UCA Duroflex joints for the axle side. Sounds like he can do it. We'll see. Would be nice to have them on axle side of the UCAs. Can't do that on a Dynatrac, last I heard.

https://www.metalcloak.com/JK-Front-...Kit-p/7321.htm
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 03:52 PM
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You could run a truss with flat top like Artec, then maybe use two of the right-side MC sleeve lugs welded to top of truss. Probably have to cut some off the bottom of the lugs to match factory height.
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post #14 of 14 Old 12-01-2018, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
You could run a truss with flat top like Artec, then maybe use two of the right-side MC sleeve lugs welded to top of truss. Probably have to cut some off the bottom of the lugs to match factory height.
Trussing the bracket or the axle? These are tons. No truss.
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