PSC Power Steering Pump Install with Hemi - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 09-17-2018, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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PSC Power Steering Pump Install with Hemi

I have a 2011 with a 5.7L Hemi. My Steering pump died so I bought the PSC pump for JKs with the Hemi. Anyone have any photos of where and how you mounted the reservoir?
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post #2 of 16 Old 09-17-2018, 09:42 PM
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I'm using the PSC bracket. It bolts to the master cylinder. You may have to modify the JSS a/c suction line (larger hose) to run this bracket.
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-28-2018, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
I'm using the PSC bracket. It bolts to the master cylinder. You may have to modify the JSS a/c suction line (larger hose) to run this bracket.
Did you have to swap out the pulley for the Truck Hemi pulley. The pulley that came in the kit didnt work. Todd responded pretty quick with change the pulley to use the one in the BOM, and it works. My fittings are not the same either.It looks like you have a straight out fitting coming off your reservoir. Mine is a slight curve. I will try and post a picture in the morning.
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-28-2018, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenjoh1972 View Post
Did you have to swap out the pulley for the Truck Hemi pulley. The pulley that came in the kit didnt work. Todd responded pretty quick with change the pulley to use the one in the BOM, and it works. My fittings are not the same either.It looks like you have a straight out fitting coming off your reservoir. Mine is a slight curve. I will try and post a picture in the morning.
I'm using the PSC 5" pulley, #P3508. With all other stock size accessories, the correct belt is 78.5" or slightly larger (I'll be running the 6-rib Gates RPM, #K060785RPM, also numbered as 6PK1993). Contitech 6PK1990 as a spare.

The fittings on the reservoir are easy: 12AN to 3/4" push-loc; 8AN to 1/2" push-loc (or 6AN if you're running 3/8" lines), no clamps needed on either. I'm running 1/2" hose on the low pressure side from the steering box to cooler to reservoir. Make sure you use hose rated for oil (I used Parker Push-Lok for the 3/4" return line; Jegs 102021 push-loc for the 1/2" line).

Here are some more shots in final position...

Last edited by rockystock; 09-29-2018 at 12:00 AM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-05-2018, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
I'm using the PSC 5" pulley, #P3508. With all other stock size accessories, the correct belt is 78.5" or slightly larger (I'll be running the 6-rib Gates RPM, #K060785RPM, also numbered as 6PK1993). Contitech 6PK1990 as a spare.

The fittings on the reservoir are easy: 12AN to 3/4" push-loc; 8AN to 1/2" push-loc (or 6AN if you're running 3/8" lines), no clamps needed on either. I'm running 1/2" hose on the low pressure side from the steering box to cooler to reservoir. Make sure you use hose rated for oil (I used Parker Push-Lok for the 3/4" return line; Jegs 102021 push-loc for the 1/2" line).

Here are some more shots in final position...
What did you do with your Trans Cooler? What radiator, and fan are you going to use. I have the Northern Radiator now. When it leaks "again", I am going to swap out to the C&R. As for fans. I went with an electric fan setup. the engine driven fan in JSS kit would not fit. Not enough clearance. I also had to put a louver in the hood to vent the heat, and blocked off the area to the side of the radiator to force the air through. It will blow cold AC on a 100+ degree day and never get above 215. At the moment, I am not running a cooler for the pump.
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-05-2018, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjoh1972 View Post
What did you do with your Trans Cooler? What radiator, and fan are you going to use. I have the Northern Radiator now. When it leaks "again", I am going to swap out to the C&R. As for fans. I went with an electric fan setup. the engine driven fan in JSS kit would not fit. Not enough clearance. I also had to put a louver in the hood to vent the heat, and blocked off the area to the side of the radiator to force the air through. It will blow cold AC on a 100+ degree day and never get above 215. At the moment, I am not running a cooler for the pump.
- no trans cooler (manual trans.)

- C&R radiator. It's probably the nicest thing in this whole swap, besides the engine lol. It has all provisions to reattach the plastic shroud pieces, just like stock. Save your stock pieces if you're swapping to C&R! Sent the Northern back to Jeep Speed Shop over six months ago; still waiting for $800 refund. Ate $100+ in return shipping.

- 2012+ JK fan with AEV fan conversion harness and procal module to set PCM to PWM fan. It gave me the "two honks" indicating the reprogram took and the TIPM is compatible; we'll see... For clearance, I had to cut 5/8" off the back side of the upper radiator support and weld on a strip of 1/8" steel, and drill/tap new holes for the 2 upper radiator bolts. Also cut most of the water pump pulley threaded hub off with grinder cutoff wheel and lots of water spray while cutting, hopefully didn't cook the pump seal or destabilize the pulley.

- p/s cooler - you could reuse the trans cooler for p/s and mount a trans cooler similar to how I have my new p/s cooler in front, trans. hoses route to the other side I think?
- hood vents - none on mine yet, will probably do some eventually. Also planning for vented fender liners.

- going with AEV snorkel for true cool air. I'm currently working on fabbing a coolant overflow tank to mount in stock location (driver side, no room on passenger side with stock air box). It's tight over there but looks like I can get around 80oz which is close to stock 3.6 bottle capacity (TJ bottle is huge. ~115+oz, about 50% more volume than 3.6!!). I think some overheating issues may be caused by too little reservoir volume, air bubble remains in radiator, etc. The universal 3x10 or 2x17 round steel bottles are just too small. If you have Todd's newer air box / coolant tank setup, recommend finding out how much volume that tank has. If it's less than ~75oz (135 cubic inches) it may be too small...

Last edited by rockystock; 10-21-2018 at 09:25 PM.
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-05-2018, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
- no trans cooler (manual trans.)

- C&R radiator. It's probably the nicest thing in this whole swap, besides the engine lol. It has all provisions to reattach the plastic shroud pieces, just like stock. Save your stock pieces if you're swapping to C&R! Sent the Northern back to Jeep Speed Shop over six months ago; still waiting for $800 refund. Ate $100+ in return shipping.

- 2012+ JK fan with AEV fan conversion harness and procal module to set PCM to PWM fan. It gave me the "two honks" indicating the reprogram took and the TIPM is compatible; we'll see... For clearance, I had to cut 5/8" off the back side of the upper radiator support and weld on a strip of 3/16" steel, and drill/tap new holes for the 2 upper radiator bolts. Also cut most of the water pump pulley threaded hub off with grinder cutoff wheel and lots of water spray while cutting, hopefully didn't cook the pump seal or destabilize the pulley.

- p/s cooler - you could reuse the trans cooler for p/s and mount a trans cooler similar to how I have my new p/s cooler in front, trans. hoses route to the other side I think?
- hood vents - none on mine yet, will probably do some eventually. Also planning for vented fender liners.

- going with AEV snorkel for true cool air. I'm currently working on fabbing a coolant overflow tank to mount in stock location (driver side, no room on passenger side with stock air box). It's tight over there but looks like I can get around 80oz which is close to stock 3.6 bottle capacity (TJ bottle is huge. ~115+oz, about 50% more volume than 3.6!!). I think some overheating issues may be caused by too little reservoir volume, air bubble remains in radiator, etc. The universal 3x10 or 2x17 round steel bottles are just too small. If you have Todd's newer air box / coolant tank setup, recommend finding out how much volume that tank has. If it's less than ~75oz (135 cubic inches) it may be too small...
I need to figure out how to post pictures, and I will share what I did with mine. I had a custom shroud that was made, along with a coolant bottle. If you can tell me how to post photos, i will upload them. For some reason, it doesnt matter if it is a jpeg, or png. Photos wont upload.
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-05-2018, 03:36 PM
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On my phone I use Tapatalk - I think it automatically resizes the image, but regardless it's pretty painless. It can be more tricky using the JKOwners web site directly; if you post that way, you may need to resize each of the photos on your own (maybe down to 300kb or less?) before attaching them. You'd have to use the "go advanced" button instead of the "quick reply" to post any attachments. Hope that helps!
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjoh1972 View Post
I need to figure out how to post pictures, and I will share what I did with mine. I had a custom shroud that was made, along with a coolant bottle. If you can tell me how to post photos, i will upload them. For some reason, it doesnt matter if it is a jpeg, or png. Photos wont upload.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 06:07 AM
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I saw the photos you posted on photobucket...
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 07:00 AM
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I hope to someday have a HEMI in my 2011 JKU.

looks cool, OP






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post #11 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
I hope to someday have a HEMI in my 2011 JKU.

looks cool, OP




My Jeep is for sale. 45k.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
- no trans cooler (manual trans.)

- C&R radiator. It's probably the nicest thing in this whole swap, besides the engine lol. It has all provisions to reattach the plastic shroud pieces, just like stock. Save your stock pieces if you're swapping to C&R! Sent the Northern back to Jeep Speed Shop over six months ago; still waiting for $800 refund. Ate $100+ in return shipping.

- 2012+ JK fan with AEV fan conversion harness and procal module to set PCM to PWM fan. It gave me the "two honks" indicating the reprogram took and the TIPM is compatible; we'll see... For clearance, I had to cut 5/8" off the back side of the upper radiator support and weld on a strip of 3/16" steel, and drill/tap new holes for the 2 upper radiator bolts. Also cut most of the water pump pulley threaded hub off with grinder cutoff wheel and lots of water spray while cutting, hopefully didn't cook the pump seal or destabilize the pulley.

- p/s cooler - you could reuse the trans cooler for p/s and mount a trans cooler similar to how I have my new p/s cooler in front, trans. hoses route to the other side I think?
- hood vents - none on mine yet, will probably do some eventually. Also planning for vented fender liners.

- going with AEV snorkel for true cool air. I'm currently working on fabbing a coolant overflow tank to mount in stock location (driver side, no room on passenger side with stock air box). It's tight over there but looks like I can get around 80oz which is close to stock 3.6 bottle capacity (TJ bottle is huge. ~115+oz, about 50% more volume than 3.6!!). I think some overheating issues may be caused by too little reservoir volume, air bubble remains in radiator, etc. The universal 3x10 or 2x17 round steel bottles are just too small. If you have Todd's newer air box / coolant tank setup, recommend finding out how much volume that tank has. If it's less than ~75oz (135 cubic inches) it may be too small...
Do you have any pictures of how you trimmed and installed the radiator?
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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I saw the photos you posted on photobucket...
Thanks man,

Now you see what I did with my coolant overflow. That is is it next to air filter. Water Wetters, or Evans Coolant will help reduce temps even more.
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 11:00 AM
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Here they are. For the upper support I drew a line on the steel part using a carpenter square on the back face of the support, marking 5/8" in from the face. I then cut along the line with the angle grinder cutoff wheel. 5/8" is about as much as you can take off and still clear the very top of the ac condenser, and have all the holes for the hood latch and plastic headlight mounts. I did have to sacrifice the hood rod prop, but good riddance; going with the gas cylinder hood lifts anyway.

I also bumped out the bottom of the radiator by about the same amount. I accomplished that with some 5/8" ID x 3/4" thick aluminum spacers on the front of the lower mount bolts, along with some short pieces of 1/2" copper tubing (~3/4" long) as a sleeve between the spacers and the body bracket bolt holes. Gorilla clear glue and clamped the spacers in place. Then I ground them down a bit to fit.

Also in the pics you can see the springs and other hardware supporting the top of the radiator. All of these ideas came from @elusive and @Rodjk (thanks much guys!). After sorting out the front end fitment, I saw that Dakota Customs also bumps their radiator supports out a bit with spacer plates (hellcat swaps). The last two pics show the grille cover in place. The bottom sticks out just a bit and so do the Dakota Customs swaps. You can find their HC swap guide online; their spacer plates are shown there as well.
Quote:
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Do you have any pictures of how you trimmed and installed the radiator?

Last edited by rockystock; 10-07-2018 at 12:13 PM.
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post #15 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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I wish I had your skillset. Lucky for me, I know some smart folks, but they are not free.... It has been money well spent.
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post #16 of 16 Old 10-07-2018, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockystock View Post

Also in the pics you can see the springs and other hardware supporting the top of the radiator. All of these ideas came from @elusive and @Rodjk (thanks much guys!).
Not a problem at all. Happy to see my contribution helped a fellow Jeeper jam a Hemi between the rails
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