Interest in Custom Control Arm Shims? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-05-2018, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Interest in Custom Control Arm Shims?

I recently destroyed one of my Rock Krawler Rear Control Arms due to the jam nut coming loose. I could not get the joints straight after installing and didn't have a bench with dual vices so I paid a shop to align and torque the jam nuts. Of course Rock Krawler said it was my fault and the shop said it was Rock Krawler's fault and I'm on the hook for $350 control arm replacement. NO MORE! I decided to make my own shims to keep the joints straight and tighten the jam nuts on the vehicle. I replacement all my arms with Metalcloak and used these shims to install all the arms and torqued them to rated speck with perfect alignment. I'm looking to see if there's any interest in me making more of these and selling them. The metalcloak arms have enough thread to tighten all the jam nuts while on the vehicle on the 2.5" lift but my old Rock Krawler would not. I also have ideas how to solve this that would work for any lift if there's interest in me working on this. Also though I made these shims for metalcloak the only difference for another lift is the thickness of the shims and I've made a whole range of thicknesses so as long as I know the measurements of the joint I can easy use these for another lift.
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post #2 of 14 Old 08-05-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-05-2018, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Also, before anyone points out the arm is backwards, I realized this and flipped it around after taking the pictures.

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post #4 of 14 Old 08-06-2018, 05:57 AM
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You're putting the joints in a bind now when the axle is flexed up or down on either side. Not sure why anyone would need these. Good luck.

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post #5 of 14 Old 08-06-2018, 08:03 AM
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@RedRock0740 He doesn't leave them in while driving, this is the torque the fuck out of the jam nut to prevent it from coming lose. Tighten the beejeezus out of the jam nut, take them off and got to the next arm, then repeat that process for all 8 arms. Take them off and store them till you do regular maintenance.

Not a bad idea.With Metalcloak self-centering bushings, it wasn't that hard to really grind on the jam nut. For my MC arms, I tightened them off the Jeep. But after installing them, I took a big wrench and a break bar. I know they are suppose to be torque to spec, but I've always tightened it till you almost get a hernia (not literally, just figuratively). I could see this being more prevalent using the Rock Krawler joints.

When Goodysgotacuda was on here, he fashioned some jig up on a bench with his vise to keep the RK joint centered when he yanked down on it.

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post #6 of 14 Old 08-06-2018, 10:13 AM
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I hope that you were offered replacement arms at cost as with all of our customers that have a non-warrantied claim.

Those tools look great, does the 3-D print material hold up well?
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-06-2018, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cduemig View Post
I recently destroyed one of my Rock Krawler Rear Control Arms due to the jam nut coming loose. I could not get the joints straight after installing and didn't have a bench with dual vices so I paid a shop to align and torque the jam nuts. Of course Rock Krawler said it was my fault and the shop said it was Rock Krawler's fault and I'm on the hook for $350 control arm replacement. NO MORE! I decided to make my own shims to keep the joints straight and tighten the jam nuts on the vehicle. I replacement all my arms with Metalcloak and used these shims to install all the arms and torqued them to rated speck with perfect alignment. I'm looking to see if there's any interest in me making more of these and selling them. The metalcloak arms have enough thread to tighten all the jam nuts while on the vehicle on the 2.5" lift but my old Rock Krawler would not. I also have ideas how to solve this that would work for any lift if there's interest in me working on this. Also though I made these shims for metalcloak the only difference for another lift is the thickness of the shims and I've made a whole range of thicknesses so as long as I know the measurements of the joint I can easy use these for another lift.

Respectfully I ask this ( primarily because of a glaring omission of details in your above / intro comment... ) because in your 2nd sentence , you clearly state that ,”...so I paid a shop to align and torque the jam nuts.. This is immediately followed-by you stating that Rock Krawler said it was your fault / shop said it was manufacturer but did I miss something there?
If the shop tightened the jam nuts , I do not understand any of what comes afterwards. Did you go back & loosen them after the shop aligned & tightened them ?
I haven’t read further & seen replies from others yet because that was so confusing.




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post #8 of 14 Old 08-06-2018, 08:22 PM
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I had to re torque the Jam Nuts on my RK Arms from time to time, it was a bit annoying but they performed great. My MC arms on my new JK are much easier to install and maintain.
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post #9 of 14 Old 08-06-2018, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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@RedRock0740 - As Treader pointed out these are just for install to keep the joints straight. That's why they have the pull tab to remove them easier after torquing the jam nut.

@Treader - I agree the self centering Duraflex MC joints are much easier to keep straight than the Krawler Joint or Johnny Joint. My rear upper RK arms on install were loose enough I could lift the arm and it would drop back down when fully installed. Also the MC arms have longer thread and a bigger jam nut making the process a bit easier.

@Rock Krawler Suspension - No, I was told the arm is not covered under any warranty and I would have to purchase from the website. I called about a joint that the retainer backed out. I was really looking for an rebuild tool as it was undamaged but you sent me a whole new joint. After finding that I did a full inspection and found the rear lower control arm near failure. The nut was still locked in place and the joint threads were loose. I also had a sway bar link that spit out the liner. I was told I could buy replacement parts for both from the website. I plan on doing a three year updated review of my X-Factor kit and the reasons I removed it in another post. Overall I was pretty happy with my kit until now. Also in fairness to RK, I got my kit literally a week before you launched the updated kit so it has older style sway bar links, no wrench flats, etc.

The first run I made were printed in PLA. I just did this to test the shape and fit but tried the shim and had no issues. PLA tends to warp in the heat but a piece of this thickness with 100% fill has been sitting in the jeep for weeks now with now warping. I've made them in ABS since as well and both work nicely. My first run were quite tight and I hammered them in place. Surprisingly there was only some scuffing on the faces.

@j3ff3ry_j33p - You read that correctly. I installed my kit in my unheated garage in January. I torqued the jam nuts the best I could using some metal shims to hold the joints but I couldn't get much on them especially a couple where the jam nut is tucked inside the control arm mount. I didn't have a bench to put them on with two vices as shown in the videos so I paid a shop to align the kit and then torque and locktite the nuts. It is a 4WD shop in Chicago but not an official shop of RK. RK made it clear it doesn't matter how they came loose, if they are it's your fault for not tightening the jam nuts and not re torquing them periodically. I can see their point as there are a ton of people that do not get the jam nut tight enough BUT, that's exactly why I made these shims. Also if it's that big of a problem eventually it's on the manufacturers to devise solutions the customers can realistically install properly.
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-07-2018, 06:58 AM
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well, then, these are a cool idea & ingenious usage of your 3D printer.

At the risk of sounding asshole-ish , I gotta admit that a thread topic such-as this really makes me appreciate the Synergy Mfg adj control-arm design which yields user not having to contend w any of this ...


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post #11 of 14 Old 08-07-2018, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
well, then, these are a cool idea & ingenious usage of your 3D printer.

At the risk of sounding asshole-ish , I gotta admit that a thread topic such-as this really makes me appreciate the Synergy Mfg adj control-arm design which yields user not having to contend w any of this ...


I switched to Synergy with DDB for just this reason.

I misalign the RK joints so when i tighten it would straighten out, then go hulk tight on the jam nuts. But years later i couldn't undo the joints. I had to remove each arm and set into a vise to persuade with a hammer and breaker bar to loosen

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post #12 of 14 Old 08-07-2018, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cduemig View Post
@Rock Krawler Suspension - No, I was told the arm is not covered under any warranty and I would have to purchase from the website. I called about a joint that the retainer backed out. I was really looking for an rebuild tool as it was undamaged but you sent me a whole new joint. After finding that I did a full inspection and found the rear lower control arm near failure. The nut was still locked in place and the joint threads were loose. I also had a sway bar link that spit out the liner. I was told I could buy replacement parts for both from the website. I plan on doing a three year updated review of my X-Factor kit and the reasons I removed it in another post. Overall I was pretty happy with my kit until now. Also in fairness to RK, I got my kit literally a week before you launched the updated kit so it has older style sway bar links, no wrench flats, etc.
I genuinely hope that isn't accurate. Our website doesn't even take orders at this time. If that is accurate, my sincerest apologies. The arm is covered under warranty, every warranty should be evaluated on an individual basis. What should have happened was to gather photos to evaluate a warranty. If a warranty was denied which it appears it would have been in this case, you should have been offered whatever replacement parts you needed to get the Jeep back together, AT COST, and get them out the door here ASAP.

If a joint had a retainer come out, it is likely that the joint housing or the retainer's threads are bad so sending a full joint rather than the tool is the standard. We would rather send the whole joint and get you on your way quickly than send a tool and have you discover a damaged thread and that you can't get the joint together.
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post #13 of 14 Old 08-07-2018, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
well, then, these are a cool idea & ingenious usage of your 3D printer.

At the risk of sounding asshole-ish , I gotta admit that a thread topic such-as this really makes me appreciate the Synergy Mfg adj control-arm design which yields user not having to contend w any of this ...


Bingo!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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post #14 of 14 Old 08-08-2018, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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I reviewed the emails. I sent Adam an email with the pictures he requested of the damaged parts after talking to him on May 4th. I called twice and sent him several emails. On the 18th I got a response he was out of the office so I called again and talked to Jeremy. I forwarded the emails including pictures. You guys sent the front joint which I appreciate but the response on the control arm was a concern the jam nuts weren’t maintained. You did say I get a 15% discount on replacement parts for the sway bar link and gave a part number. It didn’t specifically say to buy on the website. Since two weeks had gone by with no response I ordered the control arm kit from metalcloak. I can’t keep my DD down for more than a day or two. Fortunately they had them in stock and rushed them out to me.

Per the RK install manual, “Threads that fail over time are due to improper maintenance of jam nuts and can be proven very easily. Thread sections and jam nuts not properly maintained or setup, are not covered under warranty. This is the end user and installer's responsibility”

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MC 3.5" Lift
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ATX Ravine 17x9 Rims
Barricade (SRC) Roof Rack
Barricade Front Bumper
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ARB Locked ProRock44 Front w/ 35 Spline Shafts
LOD Rock Rails
MC Overline Fender Flares
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