Extras needed for 2.5-3.5 inch lift - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Extras needed for 2.5-3.5 inch lift

Hey again guys, back looking for more expert advice on lifting a 2dr wrangler sport..

Question is about driveshafts and pinion angles! I'm going to get a 2.5 or 3.5 inch metalcloak lift and in not sure if I need a slip yoke eliminator? The lift comes with control arm drop brackets and trackball relocator bracket but I read somebody saying there is a lot more extra stuff needed with a lift like this.

What more is needed for over 3 inch lift that is not needed with a 2.5? I know about the exhaust spacers..

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by libordemise View Post
Hey again guys, back looking for more expert advice on lifting a 2dr wrangler sport..

Question is about driveshafts and pinion angles! I'm going to get a 2.5 or 3.5 inch metalcloak lift and in not sure if I need a slip yoke eliminator? The lift comes with control arm drop brackets and trackball relocator bracket but I read somebody saying there is a lot more extra stuff needed with a lift like this.

What more is needed for over 3 inch lift that is not needed with a 2.5? I know about the exhaust spacers..

Thanks in advance!
No SLE, JKs don't have slip yokes on the TC output shafts.

You'll need to extend your brake lines including the abs lines (newer JKs already have longer ABS lines I believe). Would also be good to flip your drag link to keep TB and DL parallel. Without the flip you'll have bump steer and possibly other undesirable handling effects.

2dr will need new rear DS I think. Front DS may last a few 10s of thousand miles before throwing grease from the rzeppa as the rubber boot fails.

Also recommend raising your rear TB axle side as high as you can for higher/better roll center and flatter more stable ride on and off road. Looks like the new JL comes with higher TB rear mount as stock.

Other good upgrades (not absolutely needed) : track bar frame side mount reinforcement brackets, front upper C gussets, front axle tube gussets (external gussets are most effective).

Good luck!

Last edited by rockystock; 07-28-2018 at 01:09 PM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, good starting point.

I just don't wanna put in a lift and then find I have to order 15 different parts one at a time and wait until they arrive to be able to drive hahaha🤩
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 04:15 PM
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I hear ya. If youre going to 35+ tires with stock wheels you'll also need 1.25 or 1.5" wheel spacers. You'll also need 2-3" of bumpstop especially if you do the DL flip. (I went to my local hockey rink and bought 6 pucks from them lol). You could run on road for a while without too much risk but since your springs are out in front, may as well cycle your suspension and add the stops then. Rears you can add/modify directly.
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Thanks, good starting point.

I just don't wanna put in a lift and then find I have to order 15 different parts one at a time and wait until they arrive to be able to drive hahaha🤩
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 07:20 PM
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we installed a MC game changer 3.5 on my buddies 2016 rubicon and his stock brake lines (both front and rear) were actually longer than the ones MC supplied with the kit.
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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I hear ya. If youre going to 35+ tires with stock wheels you'll also need 1.25 or 1.5" wheel spacers. You'll also need 2-3" of bumpstop especially if you do the DL flip. (I went to my local hockey rink and bought 6 pucks from them lol). You could run on road for a while without too much risk but since your springs are out in front, may as well cycle your suspension and add the stops then. Rears you can add/modify directly.
Nice, so the hockey pucks work up front pretty good? I think the MC lift im getting has bump stops. I've used hockey pucks in a rear chrysler 8.25, I do plan to get 37s after my regear i have 33s now with 1.5 inch wheel spacers, 3.21 gears really suck. I will get a drag link flip kit, I dont want to deal with any bump steer, that's for sure.

Again, will any thing have to be done about the drive shafts? Or just the stock ones wear out faster and an aftermarket one will last longer? Or does this lift cost 3 drive shafts per year?
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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we installed a MC game changer 3.5 on my buddies 2016 rubicon and his stock brake lines (both front and rear) were actually longer than the ones MC supplied with the kit.
Nice.. I bet it's pretty sweet.. I really like the dual rate bushings in their arms etc.. and the coils sound pretty awesome too
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 08:22 PM
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Yep the hockey pucks have worked well so far. Just had to drill the holes. I'm pretty sure several kits out there use hockey pucks too.

Not sure about your rear ds. You could just do the lift and if the rear binds, just leave it off and go front wheel drive to the shop lol. My front lasted about 30,000 miles on ~4.25 lift (3.5 RK lift but no extra weight) before the joint boot opened up. If your ds is young, you might try replacing the boot with the Teraflex kit. I don't have any experience with it but I'm thinking about just getting a low-mile front ds and trying that kit. I say low miles because the front u-joint (axle end of the shaft) is not replacable without cutting/rewelding. Anyway, junkyard front ds with the Tera kit is probably half the cost (or better) of a double cardan CV shaft and less potential vibration problems.

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Originally Posted by libordemise View Post
Nice, so the hockey pucks work up front pretty good? I think the MC lift im getting has bump stops. I've used hockey pucks in a rear chrysler 8.25, I do plan to get 37s after my regear i have 33s now with 1.5 inch wheel spacers, 3.21 gears really suck. I will get a drag link flip kit, I dont want to deal with any bump steer, that's for sure.

Again, will any thing have to be done about the drive shafts? Or just the stock ones wear out faster and an aftermarket one will last longer? Or does this lift cost 3 drive shafts per year?
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-28-2018, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome! Yes I had a driveshaft with that CV boot fail on my liberty. Fixing it solved so many vibes on that rig.

Thanks again!
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post #10 of 11 Old 07-29-2018, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yep the hockey pucks have worked well so far. Just had to drill the holes. I'm pretty sure several kits out there use hockey pucks too.

Not sure about your rear ds. You could just do the lift and if the rear binds, just leave it off and go front wheel drive to the shop lol. My front lasted about 30,000 miles on ~4.25 lift (3.5 RK lift but no extra weight) before the joint boot opened up. If your ds is young, you might try replacing the boot with the Teraflex kit. I don't have any experience with it but I'm thinking about just getting a low-mile front ds and trying that kit. I say low miles because the front u-joint (axle end of the shaft) is not replacable without cutting/rewelding. Anyway, junkyard front ds with the Tera kit is probably half the cost (or better) of a double cardan CV shaft and less potential vibration problems.

Hey if I drive without the rear driveshaft won't all the tcase fluid leak out??
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-29-2018, 02:10 PM
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Nah the flange yokes can stay bolted in the TC.
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Hey if I drive without the rear driveshaft won't all the tcase fluid leak out??
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