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post #1 of 7 Old 06-27-2018, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Interview question

I HAVE A BRAKE ISSUE!!!
I have a 2010 JK 2 door sport and my issue is this. When I bought it the rear calipers were sticking and then I replaced them and then it was fine for a few months and then my passenger side calipers were locking up (both the rear and the front but the rear more). I then replaced the hoses on all 4 calipers and the caliper symptoms flip flopped (the front clamped harder than the rear but still on the passenger side) I then replaced the master cylinder and nothing changed. I then replaced all 4 brake pads because they become brittle after hitting 550 degrees several times and it was a good deal when they came with 4 calipers and rotors. My rotors were warped from the continuous grabbing (copying a high speed death wobble) and the calipers have seen better days. I drove the new set around with no issues and even did the "brake in"(no pun intended). Yes they were bled and flushed, yes I did everything correctly. 2 weeks later after the install I parked it on my semi slopped driveway in neutral and let off the e-brake and no movement. After a drive I splashed my brakes with warm water to prevent my cast iron and cast aluminum things from cracking. I put the water on the rear ones and no issues then I tried the front and a nice cloud of steam came out and I could feel and see the heat coming off of the wheels from a good 5 feet away(now my front is acting up and the others are normal). I narrowed the issue down to the ABS system or the brake booster (not just because those were both the last two things left). The symptoms didn't match up for the ABS system and the lines looked and functioned great.

I need a brake booster but the jeep JK from 2008 and up has a brake assist which enables it the to gain better traction in a 4wd situation. I talked to the guys at my local Auto Zone and they said that there is two brake booster options for the jeep Jk, a 9 1/4in diameter and a 9 5/8in diameter one( idk the actual measurements off of the top of my head) and they don't know the differences between the two. My question is, do I go with the bigger booster (because I do have assisted braking in my jeep and I would guess a bigger booster for the more compensated braking) or does it even matter which one? I see brake booster swaps in jeeps all of the time and they seem to do it with very little to no issues. Can some one PLEASE help.
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-27-2018, 08:53 PM
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whoa


that is some seriously hard to sort-thru typing, man.



so, I have a few questions and hopefully helpful considerations :


First, you checked and greased the caliper guide-pins prior to all of the replacement & your H2O pouring - I presume to see if the rotors were hot- to make steam & so-forth, right? ( I honestly could not keep up with all you were typing it was so complex but that questions stood out as I tried to consume your post. ) non-greased caliper guide pins will cause sticking.

Your reference about 'assisted braking' is called BLD ( brake-lock differential) and this uses the ABS system to act as a pseudo- & rather effective - sort-of locking for off road traction assistance. In a nutshell, it uses the ABS to stutter the brake on when one wheel is on ground and one is not so that the side with no traction does not get all the "attention" and this helps the wheel that would normally be on ground to have some forward momentum applied thru the BLD activation. It is very cool stuff. There is a great article on Allpar you can search for which explains the BLD system you should do a google search for when you've got time. I mention that because aside from the guide pins , the ABS module itself could be the culprit. You have not given any information on any warning or alert indicators on the dash. IF the BLD or ABS is having issue, you will most times see the brake dash indicator illuminated and indicating issue. Are you seeing warning lights on dash?



On the subject of water on seized rotors, maybe do not do that...you should be more than capable of smelling hot brakes as well as seeing a blue-ing to rotors that are overheating.


Lastly, the only booster for the 2010 Wrangler JKs or JKUs that I am aware of is MOPAR part # 68003619AD .



you may listen to the various auto-part store worker opinions , that is your prerogative, but careful with that axe, Eugene; some may know wtf they are talking about and others...not so much. It does not sound at all like you need a booster replacement to me ; is it quite difficult to press the brake-pedal and activate them? I would look first at booster vacuum lines and also that your caliper itself isn't sticking which is known to happen.


If you are needing to test a booster, you can just

  1. With the engine off, pump the brakes 5-6 times
  2. Turn the engine on while pushing down lightly on the brake pedal
  3. If your brake booster is working, the pedal will sink down about ”
  4. If your brake booster is not working, nothing will happen or the brake pedal will push back against your foot
Take a step back and do not go into info overload ; this is likely more simple than you are allowing it to whirlwind you into thinking. Do not let parts store guys tell you what is going on or you'll just keep throwing parts at it.

Are you doing all of this work yourself?



answer these questions / take these things I have mentioned into consideration ; respond in as few words as you can after checking these to confirm. It really sounds like the ABS module or a stuck/non grease guide pin.





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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 06-27-2018 at 08:58 PM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-28-2018, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for answering me. there was no bluing int the rotors before and my new set are powder coated black and haven't worn off enough for me to see the bare metal yet.

Over time I had gotten used to the smell and so did my parents so I didn't see any issue accept for a build up of brake dust. But I am in NC with a heat index around 110 so I could never feel the heat directly...I just felt heat. I would use the water (not to cool it down) but to help me look for which ones were causing the issue. an I have heard it 100 times over that it is the caliper guide pins and it isn't and if that was the case all of them should be clamping.

I don't have any dash lights so that is why I didn't assume the ABS was at fault. that is why I assumed the brake booster.

The brake booster I have tested and it seems normal.

Sooooo I'm lost.
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-28-2018, 03:39 PM
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Sounds like a more complicated issue but these calipers are somewhat common in the seize dept. Yours is on the odd side due to the low mileage compared to the three I have had seize at one time or another. The piston actually seized on mine. Bought some time spraying some brake clean behind the boot but replaced shortly after. All three had some mileage on them though.

I blame the copious amounts of salt/brine the lay down here in NJ. Shit eats everything.

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post #5 of 7 Old 07-02-2018, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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I took the Jeep in to the dealer on Friday and they tried the "cheater dealer" move said it was a caliper issue but we quickly corrected them and established that they were replaced twice and it is a different issue besides the calipers. But still no solid confirmation on any issue.
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-11-2018, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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OK. Found out the issue. the rear calipers were replaced from a previous job by a mechanic down the street and he installed the calipers "flip flopped"(so the passenger rear was on the driver rear) and as a result the bleeder valve was higher than the hoses resulting in air in the lines causing a soft...very soft brake pedal. That is now fixed.

And the front calipers are no longer locking up (same with the rear and passenger side). So a while back I introduced the issue to the owner of Mieneke that the brake booster push rod was too far out (resulting in an unequal pressure to the other lines)but he denied the issue but let me figure it out for free so I took it to Jeep and after just over a week of arguing ( saying the issue was the calipers when it wasn't) they adjusted the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder adjustment screw (which equalized the fluid to each caliper).

So in total...$1,820 I have spent to find out an issue that not only could I have done by myself but I could have done for free.

So to anyone with an issue like mine check those following items. It is easy but you can bring it in to the Jeep and pay roughly $300 but it is 12 month 12,000 mile guarantee. and if there is a recall on the brake system Jeep will refund you all of it and fix it for free. Same with any other small mom and pop mechanics.

'bout freakin' time!

Last edited by JEEPJKJAY; 07-11-2018 at 11:17 AM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-11-2018, 11:16 AM
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Glad you got it squared away

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