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post #1 of 16 Old 06-26-2018, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Sway bar disco

Hi all,
I"m running the RK 2.5 XFactor and have trouble every time I disconnect the sway bars on the trail. I adjust them in my driveway and they slip on and off very easy. Once I disconnect for the trail and articulate for several hours it's a pain in the ass to get them reconnected. I park on flat ground and still the same issues. Am I doing something wrong? I was thinking about swapping them out with another brand. Any recommendations? I'd love the Currie Antirock but that's not in the budget right now. Thanks for any help you can provide
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-26-2018, 10:42 AM
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When you say they're difficult to get back on, do you mean they don't line up? Or they're just hard to slip on.

If they aren't lining up, you're not level or they're not the same length. You can hook up one side and have a passenger rock the Jeep to change the angle enough to get it hooked up.

I usually carry a hammer in my trail bag just for this reason. Make sure you wipe down the mounting surfaces before you reconnect.

Last edited by Blakspire; 06-26-2018 at 10:44 AM.
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-26-2018, 12:00 PM
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I carry a 36" pry bar so I can pry up or down on the side that is giving me a hard time lining them back up, this is not abnormal as you are very nearly never going to be on perfectly level ground, even on level ground with your steering wheel turned hard in one direction will throw them off.
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-26-2018, 02:48 PM
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I hook up my driver side then do the passenger side. 99.9% of the time I have to pry up on the sway bar to get the discos to line up and to slide on.

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post #5 of 16 Old 06-26-2018, 11:31 PM
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it becomes an art form , mastering the manual re-connection of the endlinks after wheeling. An annoying as f*ck art form but you get used to it. I connect one then drive or roll forward enough to lift or lower the opposite side just enough to allow me to get the ball inside the hiem of the link aligned to the mounting stud , then hammer it back on then wingnut & cotter pin it back. I usually just yell at someone or my co-pilot to bounce up&down on bumper about 1-2 times and it'll go back on.

If you're using a rubber /polyurethane bushing equipped endlinks, it is more annoying/difficult since you cannot really swivel one of those as you can move the ball that a hiem /FK bushing ( I think my endlinks are RKs) equipped swaybar endlink has.



it gets easier as time/wheeling goes on ....I also carry a BFRubber H , a bag of milspec zipties and my needle-nose channellocks under the pssgr seat as the manual disconnection tools, specifically to reconnect/disconnect



FWIW, this is probably close to the top of my least favorite things about my JKU but , again, you grow used to the crap. I can by now recognize/feel the level required to get them lined back up for self re-attachment 95% of the time .





I dunno how much all of this helps you except maybe that misery loves company?




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post #6 of 16 Old 06-27-2018, 10:41 AM
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I had a JKS that was easy to reconnect. Liked that I could just slide it back over the pin and throw the cotter pin in there. Had trouble with durability over time, so moved to a Rough Country with a center piece in it... could remove the center tube. That never went back together smoothly. Thought I was doing something wrong, since the design made absolutely no sense to me.

Finally, I gave up and got the Antirock. Best decision I ever made. Agree on budget. Feels very expensive for what you get. I think the Antirock helped me more onroad (bobble-head feeling) than offroad. +1 on saving up for it. Wish I had done it before some of my more "visual" and cool mods.
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post #7 of 16 Old 07-21-2018, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
it becomes an art form , mastering the manual re-connection of the endlinks after wheeling. An annoying as f*ck art form but you get used to it. I connect one then drive or roll forward enough to lift or lower the opposite side just enough to allow me to get the ball inside the hiem of the link aligned to the mounting stud , then hammer it back on then wingnut & cotter pin it back. I usually just yell at someone or my co-pilot to bounce up&down on bumper about 1-2 times and it'll go back on.

If you're using a rubber /polyurethane bushing equipped endlinks, it is more annoying/difficult since you cannot really swivel one of those as you can move the ball that a hiem /FK bushing ( I think my endlinks are RKs) equipped swaybar endlink has.



it gets easier as time/wheeling goes on ....I also carry a BFRubber H , a bag of milspec zipties and my needle-nose channellocks under the pssgr seat as the manual disconnection tools, specifically to reconnect/disconnect



FWIW, this is probably close to the top of my least favorite things about my JKU but , again, you grow used to the crap. I can by now recognize/feel the level required to get them lined back up for self re-attachment 95% of the time .





I dunno how much all of this helps you except maybe that misery loves company?


Very helpful, thank you! As long as I know I'm not alone in this misery. I really do hate it, so much so I'm thinking about dropping the $500 for the Currie Antirock system up front. Any comments on that system? Thanks
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post #8 of 16 Old 07-21-2018, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schlieko View Post
I had a JKS that was easy to reconnect. Liked that I could just slide it back over the pin and throw the cotter pin in there. Had trouble with durability over time, so moved to a Rough Country with a center piece in it... could remove the center tube. That never went back together smoothly. Thought I was doing something wrong, since the design made absolutely no sense to me.

Finally, I gave up and got the Antirock. Best decision I ever made. Agree on budget. Feels very expensive for what you get. I think the Antirock helped me more onroad (bobble-head feeling) than offroad. +1 on saving up for it. Wish I had done it before some of my more "visual" and cool mods.
So you highly recommend the anti rock huh? I've been leaning towards it myself.
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post #9 of 16 Old 07-21-2018, 08:23 PM
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I've been running the anti rock for years because I'm lazy.

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post #10 of 16 Old 07-21-2018, 08:41 PM
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Thinking of putting my electro-disco up for sale and paying the anti-rock tax.
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post #11 of 16 Old 07-21-2018, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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Looked at alot of videos today. I'm about sold on the anti rock, I think I'll just do the steel arms and save a little cash there unless there is a distinct performance advantage for the aluminum?
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-22-2018, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscribn1 View Post
Looked at alot of videos today. I'm about sold on the anti rock, I think I'll just do the steel arms and save a little cash there unless there is a distinct performance advantage for the aluminum?
ive read mr Currie himself state the aluminum is mostly aesthetics - appearance related. The aluminum might be slightly lighter.

So, if I may offer you som3 advise ...
I have wheeled in rigs with antirocks and Iíve wheeled in rigs without them , only endlinks . I have also experienced auto disconnects but we arenít talking about that.

This will open an old, occasionally-returning verbal from those that run the costly things but just realize that West of Mississippi wheeling is different than East.
in same way , running the AntiRock swaybar solution differs from our manually discoed SBs . Even further difference exists between running the Currie antirock (or the ORO swayloc or a TeraFlex dual rated ) only on the front or rear of your JK/JKU.

From my experience and what threads Iíve been in where this is discussed, the only way to attain the intended functionality of the AntiRock ď systemĒ is to run them both front and rear. Having the stock or no swaybar out back with an AR on the other side will be useless on the street which, if that doesnít matter to you then youíre golden. Some get use to swaying around corners and stuff but I like my wheels mostly on the road if Iím on asphalt.

You will get different opinions , about 50/50 , on the AR. For the front high wheel to be swaybared into contact with the ground with an AntiRock requires the opposite rear AntiRock to be forcing that half of the suspension, too. In other words, to get the true functionality of the system you need both. Out West on slick, dry rocks that is the way to go.
Note, those who recommend and love the AR will claim this isnít such an issue but you will not experience the same droop with the AR as you will manually or electronically disconnected. The AR droops just an inch or two less than full cycle extension since the opposite side is countering its level. Thsys why itís imperative to have the rear AR working in tandem to maintain solid contact for the wheels.

I ,
personally, wheel in Eastern rocks with sometimes slippery , deep drops with little traction in between the boulders or babyheads so I like my rear connected with the front wheel each separate and able to reach down regardless of what the other side is doing . I also , personally, know of more guys who buy and install an AR on the front of their rig only to post it for sale within a short timeframe after they realize it wasnít what they had imagined it would perform like.

I highly recommend you ride or drive a buddies rig that has the AntiRock(s) installed so you can see.

I have much greater aftermarket items I need on my jeep than the performance which a $2000 roll mitigation system is gonna provide.

But, if youíre out west on traction laden, dry rocks more than youíre in mixed, grab bag bombedout trails , the AR can be quite an advantage. There a reason the ultra4 and KoH guys run them ( Ďcause they donít just rock crawl , they bomb thru the flats at 160mph , hint hint)


This morning ,coffee-ramble reply has been brought to you by the fine, underpaid coffee pickers of Indonesia and my gorilla thumbs. I hope it helpsout about the AntiRock solution more than it confuses. I admit that typing this has worked great to permit me to tack on a few extra procrastination minutes ; Iím slacking off going to garage to complete my steering rebuild for which I was up until 2 am last nite connecting...




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post #13 of 16 Old 07-22-2018, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snout View Post
Thinking of putting my electro-disco up for sale and paying the anti-rock tax.
For modded up Sahara and Sport JK's, getting a Rubi disco takeoff is where it's at especially if the person selling it to you thinks it's broken.

Slap on the EVO manual knob and call it a day but I prefer the EVO air actuated unit because it also has a gasket to keep the crud out (the manual knob does not have the gasket) and I can disconnect on the fly (at any speed) without ever having to step out of the rig.

Slap on some JKS, Rubicon Express, Teraflex, etc. disconnect endlinks as a fail safe in case your OBA craps out or you puncture an air line however most running ARB's have (should) keep an air line spare or upgrade to the thicker, beefier ARB air line.
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-22-2018, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ1 View Post
For modded up Sahara and Sport JK's, getting a Rubi disco takeoff is where it's at especially if the person selling it to you thinks it's broken.

Slap on the EVO manual knob and call it a day but I prefer the EVO air actuated unit because it also has a gasket to keep the crud out (the manual knob does not have the gasket) and I can disconnect on the fly (at any speed) without ever having to step out of the rig.

Slap on some JKS, Rubicon Express, Teraflex, etc. disconnect endlinks as a fail safe in case your OBA craps out or you puncture an air line however most running ARB's have (should) keep an air line spare or upgrade to the thicker, beefier ARB air line.
I'm still hopping around like an Irishman at a one-legged ass-kicking contest but Ill get some photos up on my build thread soon with what I have going on. I'm still not quite happy with my bumper / disco arrangement.
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-23-2018, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ1 View Post
For modded up Sahara and Sport JK's, getting a Rubi disco takeoff is where it's at especially if the person selling it to you thinks it's broken.

Slap on the EVO manual knob and call it a day
Yes this. I have my stock rubi e-disco on there still with the evo knob. Works well. I cay the wrench in my air up/down kit and just open or close it in the middle of air up/down. The air actuated is cool if you want that but the simple one has been working at this point for maybe 5 years without issue. Super quick too.
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post #16 of 16 Old 08-03-2018, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Pulled the trigger on the anti rock yesterday. I'll post up when i get it installed and when I wheel it for the first time. Thanks for all the replies and comments....
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