Rear control arm relocation - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 3 Old 06-20-2018, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Rear control arm relocation

This post has two parts: first, has anyone used the metalcloak db3 rear control arm relocation brackets, and how did they change your ride?

Second, can anyone get into the geometry and physics a little, and tell me the benefits and drawbacks of relocating the rear control arms?

I assume that flattening the control arm angles has the same benefits as the front- anti squat, channeling road impact to the springs instead of the frame, etc. I assume caster isn’t a real issue in the back.

Also, I feel intuitively that just like there is a front roll center and a rear roll center, there is probably a left roll center and a right roll center, and there is probably some effect of changing the relationship of the front and rear control arm angles in relation to each other through, say, only using a relocation bracket in the front.

I’m tempted to leave out the details of my rig so we can keep the discussion focused on the concepts, but you all might get bored that way, so here are some details.

Running about 3.5 lift, 35s, adjustable track bars, axle side track bar relocation brackets, drag link flip kit with stock pitman arm, and front control arm relocation brackets (appear to be lower only, frame side with a cam bolt in the bracket). Will go bigger on the tires, but need to save for a 44 front (or 60s). Before you even ask, the answer is “because I want to,” so let’s not let this devolve into one of those threads.
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post #2 of 3 Old 06-24-2018, 01:48 PM
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Benefits would be reduced rear axle steer due to the flatter arm angles.

And I'm not an expert on the rest, but it will also reduce your anti-squat %. This will essentially change the angle at which your axle (via control arm) is pushing the jeep. So that means more force directly forward, and less force upwards. However this force is quite dynamic, since at any given time you may be at full droop or full compression, which varies the angle by quite a lot, depending on how long your arms are.

Btw, people who have them tend to say you want at least 37s and a 4.5" lift, due to the clearance you lose with the brackets sitting down below the body. And they don't rotate and move up out of the way, like a long arm sitting in the same place could.

||||||| 2015 Unlimited Sport S Baja Yellow
Auto / 4.56 Gears / ARB Front, Auburn Ected Rear Locker & LSD / G2 Core 44 35 Spline Axles / Alpine 9-Speakers & Sub / MC 3.5" w 6pak shocks / 37" KM3s on Method 105 Beadlocks

Last edited by chitown35; 06-24-2018 at 01:50 PM.
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post #3 of 3 Old 06-26-2018, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Is the minimum 4.5” only because of ground clearance, or does it over correct the geometry?
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post #4 of 3 Old 06-26-2018, 07:41 AM
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Clearance. Go to Metalcloak.com and look at their rear drop bracket. It has pictures and stop/motion video to explain it.

Also they recommend a certain tire size as well. Smaller tires the more likely you are to hit the bracket.

2010 2 door manual sport
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