Stock Rubi Locker Solenoid - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 Old 06-18-2018, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Stock Rubi Locker Solenoid

So my lockers have stopped engaging and I'm throwing a C141D code Rear Diff control circuit low. Everything that I have read has said it's either the wiring harness or the solenoid itself. Has anyone had any experience with this and if so how hard is it to swap that solenoid out. I'm guessing that the gearing and locker will have to come out to do so. Thanks for the help!

JKUR Rock Krawler 3.5", Fox 2.0 shocks, RK High Steer/Drag link flip, 37x13.5/20 & 5.13's and a whole bunch of other stuff
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post #2 of 5 Old 06-18-2018, 03:48 PM
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Have you done any of the electrical troubleshooting to see if power is getting to the locker connector?
Have you applied 12 volts directly to the locker to see if the solenoid moves?

If you do need to replace the solenoid, the differential has to come out, and the bearing on that side has to be pulled off the carrier.

Solenoids are available, but they are not cheap.

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post #3 of 5 Old 06-18-2018, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't done any yet, I'm going to shoot the wires when I get a chance and see what I get. Thanks brother!

JKUR Rock Krawler 3.5", Fox 2.0 shocks, RK High Steer/Drag link flip, 37x13.5/20 & 5.13's and a whole bunch of other stuff
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post #4 of 5 Old 06-18-2018, 08:24 PM
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If you have to replace the switch there are a few videos on how to replace it. It's not difficult but it is time consuming.

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post #5 of 5 Old 06-19-2018, 11:00 AM
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Replacing the solenoid requires removing the carrier.

Some notes:
- You MUST keep the bearing caps on the same sides, and oriented the same.
- You will probably need an axle spreader to get the carrier out.
- You must keep track of the carrier shims AND the carrier bearing cups. I'd try to keep them in the exact same order/position. Order isn't as important as side-to-side position - this determines your ring gear backlash and your contact pattern.
- You will need to press one of the bearings off the carrier to get to the solenoid. Once you swap it (and swap your spacer over) you'll need to press the same bearing back on. A shop might charge you $10-20 for this if you bring it to them.
- You'll probably need that axle spreader (again) to get the carrier back in, with the bearing cups and shims in their correct spot.
- Then, properly re-torque the bearing caps to 80 ft-lb. (again, in the same positions they were removed from, in the same orientation.)

If I were you, I would consider measuring ring gear backlash before disassembling, at a minimum, to make sure it's the same when you re-assemble. If it's not the same, you know you have a problem before you go to run the axle and grenade it.

If you've been thinking about freshening up the axle with new bearings and/or re-gearing, this would be a great time. You're already going to be in there. But, it is more complicated since you'll need to set preload/backlash, and get the pattern right.
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