I apologize if this has already been covered, but I couldn't find anything in the search. I installed a new set of Currie Rock Jock 60's last month, and have been battling with the ESC and ABS errors ever since. If this has been covered before, please point me to the appropriate threads. If not, I'm open to any and all information from some of you that may have solved this in the past.
My build is as follows;
*2015 Rubicon Hardrock
*Currie Rock Jock 60's F&R (New in the crates, but bought from a private party not Currie)
*Rock Krawler X-Factor 4.5
*Teraflex Monster Track Bars (New because the RK's hit the Currie Diff Covers)
*Synergy Draglink (New)
I never had a problem with the wheel speed sensors on the Dana 44's, but since I installed the RJ's it is constant.
Right after installing them, I went for an alignment, and noticed I had these problems, but ignored them since I attributed it to the wheel center position being off from the install. After the alignment, everything seemed to be OK, but I only put about 20 miles on it. The first time out, on a trail ride, I climbed straight up a wall about 5 feet with the drivers front wheel, and after coming back down, the steering wheel was in the 3 o'clock position when driving straight, so I knew I bent something, and upon checking, it looked like the stock draglink was the issue. Needless to say, the dash lit up with the ESC and ABS lights on the ride after that, and gave me an error for the drivers front WSS. I bought a Synergy DL, and installed it, then centered the wheel, but still had the same problem with ESC (activating, but I don't know which wheel is activating it), and an error on the scan tool that tells me the drivers front wheel had erratic and implausible readings. So I replaced all 4 of the WSS, and went in for another alignment. There was also a tiny bit of play in the steering box, but you can barely notice it driving, or when parked, so I don't think that has anything to do with it. After the 2nd alignment, it seems better, but occasionally the ESC would activate (again not telling me which wheel), but today I got another error for the drivers WSS being erratic and implausible and these sensors are new. The sensors looked fine when I removed them, so I doubt they are the problem.
Any ideas, or am I missing something obvious here? I don't want to take apart the axle hub to check the ring unless that is the last resort because I have not had the apart, and I'm not sure about making anything worse by opening it up. From what I can see inside the hole for the WSS, the tone ring looks good, clean, and is not loose or damaged.

I would bet the air gap on the sensor is a little to far away. I would go and adjust the wheel bearing preload on the side thats giving you issues. I bet the wheel bearing is a little loose and causing the reluctor ring to pull away from the sensor at times and causing issues.

OK, that's the one place I have not yet investigated because I have never had the bearing assembly opened yet. I don't have a problem doing that, but I would feel more confident if I had some technical drawings, or saw a video of the proper disassembly first. I hate taking something new apart, without knowing what to expect inside. An exploded isometric drawing would be very helpful.
Do you happen to know what the air gap should be?

I would bet you just need to tighten up the bearing preload. I wouldn't dissemble the whole thing.

My battery also died twice this weekend, and I'm wondering if a weak battery could cause false DTC's like this so I'm going to replace the battery Wednesday, clear the DTC's, and drive it on Thursday. In case that is not the problem, I called Currie today, and talked to one of the engineers. I asked about the bearing pre-load, and the air gap specs. He told me there was no pre-load, and I should just swap the unit bearings left to right. If the problem shifts to the right, he will send me a new unit bearing. if it stays on the left, its the Jeep, not the axle, and I'll need to keep digging into it. Makes sense, so I'll give it a try this weekend, if the battery doesn't do the trick.

I just finishedmy ton swap on a 12+ jk, and the computer needs a good sensor input from at least three sensors to be happy. Are you noticing any transmission shifting issue sat all? One recommendation is to run a scanner that can pick up speed from each wheel and spin by hand or drive.

I am having to play with teh sensors and air gap. One issue I am finding is the connector for one rear sensor wheel seems loose at times giving the implausible error. I have all my front and rear sensors going to the rear axle as only have tone rings there. try the air gap adjustment first, then swap sensors around. It is very possible that even a new sensor could be bad.

I’ve had a few customers’ new axles come in with bad tone rings. We fought and fought until we finally replaced tone rings. No issues since then. Just an FYI- even the simplest bits are some times bad out of the box.

Well, I replaced the battery today, but only had time for a short 5 minute ride to check everything out. The ESC went off on a tiny pot hole in the driveway, but for 5 minutes driving down my dirt road, I had no ABS or ESC lights come on. I'm not convinced the battery was the problem just yet, but tomorrow I will take the Jeep to work, and see if it acts up on the 1 hour drive into work. If it still sets off ESC, or gives me an ABS code, I guess the simplest thing is to measure the air gap. Thanks for all the advice.

No, I have not noticed any shifting problems (I have an automatic). Hope I don't have any computer issues from this axle swap, because the computer is one place I don't want to troubleshoot. Only a billion things that can go wrong there...
Fingers crossed it's just the weak battery, or a sensor/air gap problem. I can deal with those type of things.

Ruled out the Battery!
Made it 30 miles today, but the ABS/ESC still came on with 2 DTC's for the front left wheel speed sensor.
I tried to check the air gap, but the reluctor is sealed inside the unit bearing. I cannot see it, or measure the gap without disassembling it, and you need a huge custom 4" spanner to do that. So I swapped the left and right unit bearings like Currie recommended. If the problem moves to the other side, it's the unit bearing/reluctor. If it stays on the left side, it is the Sensor/wires/ABS module.
I'll be driving it tomorrow to work, so that will give me a 40 mile test drive.

I had the same issue when I went with the Teraflex full float front hub conversion. Once I tightened up the bearings on that side the problem went away.

You have to take it loos to swaps side anyway. just tighten it up first and see if its fixed before you go to the trouble of swiping sides and potentially causing a issue on both sides.

This is my first time diving into an axle this deep. I'm not sure how the Teraflex 60's are, but I believe they have the traditional hub nut on the spindle to tighten up the bearing. On the Currie Rock Jocks, I was told there is no bearing pre-load, and it is all internal to the unit bearing. When I removed the hubs, I had no hub nut in there, just an outer snap ring for the hub, and an smaller snap ring on the spindle. In the picture below, you can see the assembly on the rotor.

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So I swapped the unit bearings last week, and took it to work one day, and out on a ride over the weekend. At first, it was all good, driving it to work, but 50 miles into the weekend ride the ESC came on for the right front (was always on the left before), and damn near caused me to run off the road (I thought these safety features were suppose to make things SAFER). The problems I had with the left front WSS, are now on the right. Spoke to Currie today, and they are sending me out a new unit bearing. I will update after the new one is installed.

Did you get your battery tightened/fixed. I been fighting the Currie hubs and it wasn’t the hubs but the battery terminals being loose.

That right front locking up is exactly what mine was doing two days ago