Built D30 vs D44??? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-21-2018, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Post Built D30 vs D44???

Hey guys,


I've done my research quite a bit and I'm still undecided.

In my friends garage awaits a D30 50k miles, trussed, gusseted and sleeved, 4.10s and just needs ball joints. I've already paid for it so all I really need to drop it in are the ball joints. (ball joints and gears to do it the RIGHT way)
But after doing some research I'm contemplating selling the D30 and looking for a D44.

I have a 2011 sport 3.8L automatic, 37s w/ 3.73s (I know -__-) It's my daily and I spend quite a bit of time on the highway, couple Rausch trips on it but I plan to do more wheeling.


What front axles are you guys running? What's your preference and how well have they held up? Include pictures if you have them


Thanks!
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-21-2018, 09:17 AM
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How much did you pay him already?

Skip if you can, or just sell it. You'd have to pay for a regear anyways. No point is going up to 4.10 from 3.73 as it's still an inadequate gear ratio. It'd also be sacrilegious to pay someone to regear a dana 30 to 3.73. Lower gears (4.56, 4.88's) in a D30 with 37's can be done if you're really light on the gas, and winch when it gets sketchy. 5.13's is asking for trouble.

Pick up a 44 (rubi, crate, whatever) and regear both axles to 4.88 (or 4.56 if you really do a lot of highway driving). You'll need the stronger r&p for those 37's if you're really trying to play on the blacks at Rausch and do sections of Rock Creek. I think Globex Performance is still running its special right now, $999+tax OTD for a regear (parts, labor,and fluids).
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2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah

Last edited by BoraBora; 05-21-2018 at 09:19 AM.
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-21-2018, 09:50 AM
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Dear Leon

Step 1 - by all means spend your money on that used dana 30. Step 2 - have someone close to you immediately kick you in the sack for spending money on that used dana 30. Step 3 - get a D44 of your choice for added peace of mind.


Love

Crazylarry
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-21-2018, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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I paid $600 for it.
Which gears are you running?
Thanks for the info

"It's hard to beat a person who never gives up"

2011 Wrangler Sport
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-21-2018, 05:29 PM
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I'm running 4.56 on my 2 door 6 speed. Works well for me.

2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-22-2018, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds good, thank you both

I ordered ball joints just so I can press them in and post it up for sale. Cause nobody wants to buy death wobble
I'll try to remember to post updates on my process

"It's hard to beat a person who never gives up"

2011 Wrangler Sport
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-22-2018, 04:50 PM
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I went with PR44-U. No problems, been a great axle. But this was way back when there weren't all the other options you can find these days. My choice was: pay to straighten a bent 30, replace the broke 5.13's, then pay for some strength mods - and hope it didn't bend (again). Or a pr44 or pr60.

One suggestion would be to price out some aftermarket alternatives as well as a takeoff/crate rubi axle. After gears, truss, gussets, sleeves, balljoints, whatever else you decide it needs, see how the price comparison turns out. Who knows, you may talk yourself into a 60.

And a note on the ratio, read/get as many opinions as you can before deciding. I went from 3.73 to 5.13, then to 5.38 in my 3.8 auto.

Last edited by GreenJK; 05-22-2018 at 04:57 PM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-22-2018, 05:41 PM
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I would recommend at least 5.13 with 37's and the 3.8 automatic. 4.88 is not going to be enough.
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