Beadlock mounting help - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Beadlock mounting help

Hey guys,

I've been trying to mount my new 37's on Method 105's. Problem is, I can't get the outer bead to sit around the lip/flat so I can get the ring on. I've been trying for 3 hours now with no avail. I've tried flat heads and walking it around. Rubber mallet and beating it down...but nothing seems to work. I can only get 3/4 of the bead seated before it just starts slipping off again.

The red outline is where I can't seat it. The blue is where it starts to slip off again. I've got them sitting in the sun now (I was trying in the shade), and I'm hoping that loosens it up a bit...but I'm not banking on it. How'd you guys deal with this? 3 hours of going at it...and nothing to show for my efforts. Plz help, this is driving me insane
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2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah

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post #2 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 01:21 PM
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Did you already use a little soapy water on the bead?
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post #3 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I tried that, and it only seemed to induce more slippage. Also tried the ring with starter bolts, and that did nothing but clamp down. Might try that again after they soak in the sun for a little. Bleh...didn't think it'd be this difficult.

2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah

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post #4 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 01:44 PM
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so, and i still maintain my beadlocks were the easiest to mount ever, but when i got to the point that you are in the pic i hit the tire with a deadblow or rubber mallet a few times and it slipped right on. i did use some soapy water. - my 2 cents
(i hit the tire where the letters are where the bead is not set)
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[JKUR - 6 Speed][3.5" MC ARB Lift][40" Nitto Trail Grapplers on 17" TR Beadlocks][5.38s][Fusion 4x4 Kingpin 1 Tons][MC Front & Rear Bumpers][sPOD][Warn Zeon 10s][And more ...]

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post #5 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 02:49 PM
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This ^^^^

Waterless hand cleaner works great as a lube if you need a bit more than plain soap or windex.

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post #6 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 03:14 PM
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I set mine on a 4 gallon bucket. The tire drooping a little bit helps and a big dead blow with soapy water.
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post #7 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Sams Misguided Child View Post
I set mine on a 4 gallon bucket. The tire drooping a little bit helps and a big dead blow with soapy water.
I swear, I must have done right by the tire gods in this lifetime, because I never have had tires that didn't slip on the wheel like a mother of eight.

OP needs to do the running jump like they do on YouTube beadlock videos.
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post #8 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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Ho lee fuk, it took me 5 hours to get one done. I swear my bead was either too thick or this one tire was just a little off. I ended up using some washers to help keep the tire from slipping off...while also using 3 screwdrivers at the same time. Scratched the shit out of the wheel and kinda gouged at the tire in the process...but it's on. I feel like everyone downplays this step, and exaggerates the difficulty of bolting the ring down. Not looking forward to the other 4, but maybe they'll be a little easier.





LOL who am I kidding...
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2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah

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post #9 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 06:20 PM
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You're 20% done. It's all down hill now.

Hope that helped.

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post #10 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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You're 20% done. It's all down hill now.

Hope that helped.

Wow I feel way better now

Mounted the second one, and the fender washer method worked like a charm. Same deal though, bead is way off and no way it would go on without some sort of clamp (like the washers). I blame the Maxxis tires...the bead is over 5/8" thick. Got the second one on with the ring in under an hour, but Jesus... the learning curve was insane. I'm surprised not that many of you ran into this issue.

2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah
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post #11 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 07:44 PM
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ill be curious how many weights your wheel/tire combo requires to balance ...

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[JKUR - 6 Speed][3.5" MC ARB Lift][40" Nitto Trail Grapplers on 17" TR Beadlocks][5.38s][Fusion 4x4 Kingpin 1 Tons][MC Front & Rear Bumpers][sPOD][Warn Zeon 10s][And more ...]

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post #12 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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ill be curious how many weights your wheel/tire combo requires to balance ...
I'll let you guys know. Going to drive on them first and see how they ride with no weight.

2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah
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post #13 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 07:59 PM
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Not sure if it was mentioned but another way is to get 4 bolts of the correct pitch but just a little longer extended length than the ones the wheels came with. An extra 1/2" should be fine. No need to screw around with washers.

Put the 4 long bolts at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions. Bolt them in just far enough that the ring settles and you can get the stock beadlock bolts started. Once you've got the ring started, then replace the 4 extenders with the regular length bolts.

I always keep at least 2 of the longer bolts in the rear cubby just in case.
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post #14 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure if it was mentioned but another way is to get 4 bolts of the correct pitch but just a little longer extended length than the ones the wheels came with. An extra 1/2" should be fine. No need to screw around with washers.

Put the 4 long bolts at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions. Bolt them in just far enough that the ring settles and you can get the stock beadlock bolts started. Once you've got the ring started, then replace the 4 extenders with the regular length bolts.

I always keep at least 2 of the longer bolts in the rear cubby just in case.
I actually forgot to mention, I gave that a go, but my bead was so off that it did nothing for me but clamp the tire down. I was hoping the ring would help line things up, but it seems these Maxxis tires and the Methods just don't play nice together. Might just be the E rated sidewall laughing at me though...

Two down...3 to go

2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah
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post #15 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 08:21 PM
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I have the same wheels and have installed 2 different sets of tires on them. I only had trouble with the last set (maxxis treps) my answer was to take a razor blade and trim just the edge of the tire off all the way around on the part of the tire that wants to hang when you put it on. I did that and they went on easy, I haven't had to put a single pound of air in any of them since that time either.
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post #16 of 24 Old 04-10-2018, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I have the same wheels and have installed 2 different sets of tires on them. I only had trouble with the last set (maxxis treps) my answer was to take a razor blade and trim just the edge of the tire off all the way around on the part of the tire that wants to hang when you put it on. I did that and they went on easy, I haven't had to put a single pound of air in any of them since that time either.
That's good to hear! Did you use the spacers? I've read the ring spacers can cause leaking, but also read that no spacers can cause coning and ultimately snapped bolts.

2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah
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post #17 of 24 Old 04-11-2018, 05:41 AM
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it varies greatly from tire to tire, @BoraBora ; many installs reference having to take a rotary handheld with a sand/ grinder wheel around the innermost edge to remove either just- too-thick bead or ( most often) additional manufacturers flange or flashing left from the last bit of molding of the tire. There’s no rhyme/ reason as some high- end tire companies like your Maxxis CAN require this where el Cheapo , “SuperGoFastInDirtJoe” Chinese made tires will fit like a glove. Lotsa talk about having to trim flashing and production flanges on tires . Might not be your issue ( I have also heard racing friends / shop owners mention struggling with them and having to burrgrind the inner diameter a degree or two). Some tires seem to account for this but I’m wondering if those Razr Maxxis aren’t just thick, crazy HD-built, ( e-rated?) high end tires that were cold and stiff....
( edit: as mentioned, you were using the big 5 gallon bucket with your ‘screwdriver spoons’ , right? Oops...didn’t see your picture details ..yup, you were ...)





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post #18 of 24 Old 04-11-2018, 06:30 AM
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Some times new things are very awkward and has a big learning curve.

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post #19 of 24 Old 04-11-2018, 06:07 PM
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As pictured earlier, use a couple of fender washers and longer bolts to hold one side of the bead down while you beat on the other lubricated side with a rubber mallet.
Use the ring spacers. I broke a couple of bolts trying to mount my Coopers on the 105's.
Be patient, torque the rings down slowly.

"It's not the critic who counts..." T. Roosevelt
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post #20 of 24 Old 04-11-2018, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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it varies greatly from tire to tire, @BoraBora ; many installs reference having to take a rotary handheld with a sand/ grinder wheel around the innermost edge to remove either just- too-thick bead or ( most often) additional manufacturers flange or flashing left from the last bit of molding of the tire. There’s no rhyme/ reason as some high- end tire companies like your Maxxis CAN require this where el Cheapo , “SuperGoFastInDirtJoe” Chinese made tires will fit like a glove. Lotsa talk about having to trim flashing and production flanges on tires . Might not be your issue ( I have also heard racing friends / shop owners mention struggling with them and having to burrgrind the inner diameter a degree or two). Some tires seem to account for this but I’m wondering if those Razr Maxxis aren’t just thick, crazy HD-built, ( e-rated?) high end tires that were cold and stiff....
( edit: as mentioned, you were using the big 5 gallon bucket with your ‘screwdriver spoons’ , right? Oops...didn’t see your picture details ..yup, you were ...)



Yep they are E rated, and they didn't play nice when they were cold (in the shade after sitting inside). I let the rest of them sit out in the sun, and they were a little easier to work with. None of them slid on like a glove though, every single one took a lot of finesse; Fender washers, flat heads, tons of soapy water, and a rubber mallet. They fit so tight that the measly little air compressor on my PowerPlant managed to set the inner bead on all of them in under a minute. Meanwhile my buddy with MTR's couldn't set his bead without using a ratchet strap and high-output compressor.

Quote:
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As pictured earlier, use a couple of fender washers and longer bolts to hold one side of the bead down while you beat on the other lubricated side with a rubber mallet.
Use the ring spacers. I broke a couple of bolts trying to mount my Coopers on the 105's.
Be patient, torque the rings down slowly.

Yep the fender washers was the only way I got them to work. Wish someone had mentioned this trick in one of the multiple YouTube vids I watched prior to mounting them, but granted...it's subjective depending on the tire and wheel. I was really worried about the spacers causing a leak, but so far so good. Got them all on today.

They ride really, really smooth. Compared to my old, wobbly, impossible to keep balanced MTR/K's...these are amazing. Might not need a balance until after I go wheeling in 2 weeks.


Now the only thing killing me is my back........
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2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah

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post #21 of 24 Old 04-11-2018, 10:21 PM
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Now that you're on a larger/heavier wheel combo and since you wheel it, definitely start saving pennies for the brake upgrade. Don't wait to figure that one out when climbing a steep grade and your rig won't hold position...

Looks good otherwise.
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post #22 of 24 Old 04-12-2018, 05:00 AM
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look great . I've always loved the 105s .they are relatively light, too.


I just upgraded tires and the finalists as-far-as models came down to Maxxis Trep bias , Maxxis Razr and the G003 MT from Yokohama . I actually had the button ready to hit on the Razr but just couldn't handle the e-rated LT only offering in the size I require. If they produced a d-rated 37" , no question. The Yoko won for weight and void depth just barely over the Maxxis . ( In deep South and lower Appalachian wheeling region , some mud is inevitable to get to rock)

Seeing your tires and wheels , I had brief 2nd doubts !

I'm sure they'll last a long time and be bombproof for ya . Nice setup.


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post #23 of 24 Old 04-12-2018, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Now that you're on a larger/heavier wheel combo and since you wheel it, definitely start saving pennies for the brake upgrade. Don't wait to figure that one out when climbing a steep grade and your rig won't hold position...

Looks good otherwise.
Thanks! Definitely moved the brake upgrade higher up on my list. All it took was pulling out of my driveway for me to notice the brakes lacking hahah

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look great . I've always loved the 105s .they are relatively light, too.


I just upgraded tires and the finalists as-far-as models came down to Maxxis Trep bias , Maxxis Razr and the G003 MT from Yokohama . I actually had the button ready to hit on the Razr but just couldn't handle the e-rated LT only offering in the size I require. If they produced a d-rated 37" , no question. The Yoko won for weight and void depth just barely over the Maxxis . ( In deep South and lower Appalachian wheeling region , some mud is inevitable to get to rock)

Seeing your tires and wheels , I had brief 2nd doubts !

I'm sure they'll last a long time and be bombproof for ya . Nice setup.
Thank you sir! Just a heads up, I heard the Yokohama Georlander MT's are a pain in the ass to mount, just like these Maxxis tires were (thick bead issues).

So far the E rated has actually felt a little more controlled than my C rated MTR/K's were. They feel less squishy and unpredictable over road imperfections.

2015 JK- trussed and locked 44's, 37's, beadlocks, Synergy/Metalcloak control arms, Genright, Warn, Crawler Conceptz, Poison Spyder...blah blah blah
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post #24 of 24 Old 04-12-2018, 03:45 PM
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Thanks! Definitely moved the brake upgrade higher up on my list. All it took was pulling out of my driveway for me to notice the brakes lacking hahah



Thank you sir! Just a heads up, I heard the Yokohama Georlander MT's are a pain in the ass to mount, just like these Maxxis tires were (thick bead issues).

So far the E rated has actually felt a little more controlled than my C rated MTR/K's were. They feel less squishy and unpredictable over road imperfections.
yeah; the Yokohama's have a reinforced, hexagonal bead bundle (whtever the heck that is) ,pretty tough; the folks I have heard mount them to BLs have said they are nice and clean and had no issue. I don't run BLs yet on OEM axles. Soon.


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