PSC ported cap - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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PSC ported cap

as promised, here are some pics of the PSC ported cap. Its got two additional barbs at the bottom to allow the connection of the hydro assist ram.






Mounting orientation.




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post #2 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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off to install.
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post #3 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenFoo View Post
off to install.
Good luck
Keep me posted how it goes

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post #4 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 10:59 AM
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Can you buy that rather than have your box ported? What'd it cost? Also, isn't it tempermental & a lot of fine tuning to do when pulling the caps on & off?

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post #5 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Prope View Post
Can you buy that rather than have your box ported? What'd it cost? Also, isn't it tempermental & a lot of fine tuning to do when pulling the caps on & off?
Im not sure you can buy just the ported cap. I got it as a whole kit here.

I havnt seen any issues with pulling the cap so far. Just make sure your lower intermediate shaft is lined up properly.

Really wish i had my tie-rod mount


pics soon.
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post #6 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a pic of the cap installed. I'm still messing with the hoses and fittings. Ill have to redo the hose, it seems way to long.


Some learnings from the way I did it. I kept everything in place and tried to work around the jeep.....It might be easier to just drop the steering gear and do it that way....I don't have a second jeep and kit to try it that way. Worth a thought.

Not removing the steering gear way....
1) There are no instructions but its pretty straight forward.
2) You have to take the intermediate steering shaft out to remove the cap. I also decided to do the 'steering clunk fix' while i had the shaft out.
3) Relocate the coolant bottle, it gives you more space to move around
4) The new outputs on the cap for the hydro ram are very close to the bolts that attach the cap to the steering gear. You have to take the higher one off to bolt the cap into the gear. Once off, you can bolt the cap back onto the steering gear BUT you cant get a socket on it and you can only rotate a wrench about 1/8 - 1/4 turn so its slow going.
5) Which new port to which port on the RAM? Its not logical I can tell you that. You'd think the furthers port would go to the farther (pass side) port on the Ram right? nope....complete opposite. The lower of the two fittings goes to the pass side port, the higher of the two goes to the driver side port.
6) DO NOT FORGET TO un-relocate your coolant bottle before you start up the jeep.......oops


I wish I had my tie-rod clamp/mount and I could give more info on how the system works all together.......

Here's where I'm at....waiting for my TR clamp
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post #7 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 10:34 PM
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Dumb question, but how do you plan to pass inspection here in PA? Or are you hoping they overlook it? Or do you know a friend of a friend?

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post #8 of 67 Old 09-24-2010, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Joneszj View Post
Dumb question, but how do you plan to pass inspection here in PA? Or are you hoping they overlook it? Or do you know a friend of a friend?
Luckily PA has nothing to say about that. However, this is just a hydro assist steering system and not a full hydro. I dont think id want to run a full hydro system on a road going vehicle.


175.63. STEERING.
(a) Condition of Steering Components - The
steering assembly and steering mechanism
shall be in safe operating condition as
described in ß175.80 (relating to inspection
procedure).
(b) Steering Wheel - The steering wheel, except
if specially designed for handicapped drivers,
shall be equivalent to original equipment in
material strength and have minimum outside
diameter of 13 inches.

175.80
(b) Internal Inspection
An internal inspection shall be performed
as follows:
(1) Check steering column and REJECT IF
one or more of the following apply:
(i) Free play exceeds the following
allowances:
Wheel Diameter Freeplay
16 inches or less .......... 2 inches
18 inches ................. 2 1/4 inches
20 inches ................. 2 1/2 inches
22 inches ................. 2 3/4 inches
(ii) The gear box is loose on the frame.
(iii) The energy-absorbing column is
defective.
(iv) The steering wheel, except if
specially designed for handicapped
drivers, is not circular or equivalent in
strength to original equipment or has
an outside diameter less than 13
inches.
(v) The front wheels cannot be turned to
the full right or left position without
binding or interference.
(vi) The flexible steering coupler–rag
joint–is badly misaligned–twisted or
out of alignment between attaching
collars.
(vii) The number of turns of the steering
wheel from a straight ahead tire
position to the right stop is not equal
to the number of turns to the left stop
within a tolerance of 1/4 turn.


(2) Inspect steering system and REJECT IF
one or more of the following apply:
(i) Steering gear box is loose on frame.
(ii) Measured movement at the front or
rear of a tire is greater than 1/4-inch.
Eliminate all wheel bearing movement
by applying the service brake; then,
with the vehicle raised and wheels in
the straight ahead position, grasp the
front and rear of the tire and attempt
to move the assembly right and left
without moving the steering gear.
Measure the movement.
(iii) The linkage components are not
secured with cotter pins or other
suitable devices.
(iv) The steering stops allow the tire to rub
on the frame or chassis parts.
(v) The front wheels are incapable of
being turned to the right and left
steering stops without binding or
interference.

Looks like I'd pass from that inspection procedure, no?

Last edited by BenFoo; 09-24-2010 at 11:41 PM.
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post #9 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 05:36 PM
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Hydro assist, I must've missed that somewhere along the line. So how has the whole install of this been going? Do you feel this is necessary if going to 37s, or only once the jump to 38s or larger is made?

I'm between both these sizes of tires and I've already noticed how much the steering blows off-road with the 35s.

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post #10 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joneszj View Post
Hydro assist, I must've missed that somewhere along the line. So how has the whole install of this been going? Do you feel this is necessary if going to 37s, or only once the jump to 38s or larger is made?

I'm between both these sizes of tires and I've already noticed how much the steering blows off-road with the 35s.

it all comes down to you. if you're struggling on the trails then it's helpful... i run full hydro on my trail rig and i don't know how i lived without it!

jeepnick just ordered his kit, that'll be going on this week.

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #11 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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I dont have a problem onroad steering its when youre offroad with the tires aired down to 10psi and the front axle locked. Hard to steer in a rock field.

Id say if you do more difficult stuff even a 37 youd notice a huge difference with hydro assist. Or have forearms like popeye.
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post #12 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Ryan/Nick,

Let me know if you guys need any help with the install. You guys should be alright though. It was pretty straight forward. See notes above

I did use ATF+4 fluid
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post #13 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
it all comes down to you. if you're struggling on the trails then it's helpful... i run full hydro on my trail rig and i don't know how i lived without it!

jeepnick just ordered his kit, that'll be going on this week.
is his going to be full hydro or hydro assist?

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post #14 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 08:27 PM
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is his going to be full hydro or hydro assist?
assist, the jk is my dd

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post #15 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 08:33 PM
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Ryan/Nick,

Let me know if you guys need any help with the install. You guys should be alright though. It was pretty straight forward. See notes above

I did use ATF+4 fluid
we picked up some royal purple it takes 3 quarts

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post #16 of 67 Old 09-26-2010, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepnick View Post
we picked up some royal purple it takes 3 quarts
Unless you got the kit that replaces the pump id stay with the ATF+4. But thats me.

You run the RP Ill stay with the ATF and well see if either has issues. =]

You might want to pickup more than 3 qts. I went through 2 during my install and i didnt flush the system. Although i did spill some =]
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post #17 of 67 Old 09-29-2010, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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This is wheels turned full driver


So I got my tie-rod clamp and everything is now fully setup. I shortened the lines going to the hydro-ram they were WAY to long. I forgot to take into account the length of the fittings and that the shocks already had 4-5" of the 12" travel exposed. Anywho....its done.

I took my first road test with it around my neighborhood. Between correcting the steering geometry and adding the hydro assist it drive pretty damn good. The steering is a bit more touchy, which i expected. So far so good. I do notice a slight delay when stopped at a stop sign. But, if you start accelerating then turn you dont even notice it. With 5.38 gears in, i get up above 1000rpm pretty fast, so there is little time that there is any lag or stiffness in the steering wheel.

Ive got 2 days of wheeling planned for this weekend .... front-ended by ~5hr drive on the highway. So the new steering should get a good workout both on and offroad.
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post #18 of 67 Old 09-29-2010, 05:07 PM
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Looks great, really interested to hear how it performs off road. I'm sick of the ambiguous steering of my JK, and I'm sure it would only get worse with 37s or larger.

1972 Commando on Tons & 40s
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post #19 of 67 Old 09-29-2010, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
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This is wheels turned full driver
Nice Tie-rod clamp.

Sorry, about the screw up on the other clamp. Fully My bad.

Looks good all together.
Let me know how it works out.

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post #20 of 67 Old 09-29-2010, 05:27 PM
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How hard or easy was the install of this?

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post #21 of 67 Old 09-29-2010, 05:29 PM
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Can you just re-use the stock tie rod clamp? The axle side bracket looks necessary, but I didn't see mention of it on Poly's website for the econo kit...did it come with the kit?

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post #22 of 67 Old 09-29-2010, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joneszj View Post
Can you just re-use the stock tie rod clamp? The axle side bracket looks necessary, but I didn't see mention of it on Poly's website for the econo kit...did it come with the kit?
No, It requires a larger Dia bolt. That's where I screwed up his install as noted above.

If you have a welder, you can weld the tabs that are included to the tie-rod clamp.
Most likely though you will want to use a PSC-TRCL07. The bolt goes from being 1/2" on our clamp to 5/8" for the larger rod end on the cylinder.
It works with the 1-3/8" dia. tie-rods.

Edit:
LINK

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post #23 of 67 Old 09-29-2010, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crusty1007 View Post
Nice Tie-rod clamp.

Sorry, about the screw up on the other clamp. Fully My bad.

Looks good all together.
Let me know how it works out.
Ahh....no worries Thean. I appreciate you taking care of it. Should be shipping back the other TR clamp tomorrow.


Incorrect TR clamp left........correct on right. You can notice the difference


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post #24 of 67 Old 10-03-2010, 06:31 PM
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FWIW, I just installed this kit. The tower/block that has the extra ports for the assist works on pre 2010 JKs. I, along with PSC learned that Chrysler changed suppliers for the 2010 box and the tower is different. After learning that, Kevin gave me a great deal on their pre 2010 modified box. After I sell my stock steering box, I'll have less than $400 into the project. I didn't want to relocate my tracking bar bracket, which the poly mount requires, so I built my own out of 1/4" flat stock and reenforced the axle tb bracket in the process. The kit install was a snap. If I were going to switch the blocks, I would advise removing the box and swap them on the bench. It takes about 5 minutes to remove the box and a little more to put it on. The longest process was bleeding the system. Once that was done, it worked right the first time. Mine is not sensitive on the road at all. The feel is solid with no surprizes. It requires the same input up against a rock as it does turning a corner. I probably don't need it, but being retired, I did not want to deal with a broken sector shaft out in the boonies.

The tower is available for $179 from PSC. It was itemized on my invoice, but don't know if they sell it separate. With the stock pump, which I have, PSC recommended staying with ATF+4. Actually, Chrysler recommends Mopar Power Steering Fluid+4,(which is a clear color), but if not available, ATF+4 is ok. The specs for the two are almost identical.

I've been thinking of getting the PSC high volume pump, but from what I've been reading, I think I'll stick with the stock pump.

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post #25 of 67 Old 10-04-2010, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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So I offer my feedback after 2 days of tough usage on it......

Day One:
Once in 4-low, i had to keep the engine at 2000rpm give or take to get full usage from the hydro assist with my stock pump. This left some akward steering situations heel-toe driving to keep the rev up but keep the rate of the jeep the same or slipping the clutch to allow higher rev.

After the fluid got hot and the pump squeeling like a pig, i had to park it. The trails we were doing are hard enough when you can steer. This was after maybe 5-6hrs of usage.


Day Two:
Started ok with slight bit of sluggish in the steering but it was fine ~2000rpms still. It didnt take quite as long to get the pump to sqeal this day and I found myself parking it sooner than the day before.

I was very dissapointed. Im not sure if A) my stock pump was/is on its last legs or B) the hard usage the first day caused the pump to start making that awful squealing noise from hot fluid. At that point it was almost impossible to turn and had to be parked.


Looks like ill be getting the PSC highflow pump kit and a cooler.
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