Teraflex LCG longarm - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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Teraflex LCG longarm

Narrowing my choices down to three long arms:
Teraflex Lcg longarm
synergy
Evo

I like the design of the teraflex, it doesn't bother me it removes stock brackets and replaces them with more suitable ones. it would appear to me this kit offers the best geometry compared to synergy and Evo.

Does anyone one have experience with it? Im not talking about the alpine system. Do any of you run the synergy/Evo setup?
Thoughts/ideas/experiences would be awesome! Dirtman hopefully you'll help me out here.

-Nomad
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post #2 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 06:45 AM
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Out of the 3 I would pick Synergy but I'm a fan boy so ..

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post #3 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 07:45 AM
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The rear uppers on the Teraflex are only ~1" longer than the stock uppers so that will be a limiting factor in terms of articulation.

Out of the 3 I would pick Rock Krawler but as Tap said, I am also a fan boy


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post #4 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post

Out of the 3 I would pick Rock Krawler but as Tap said, I am also a fan boy
That's cool, we don't mind.

OP, when you look at geometry, what are you looking for? We are currently engineering a 4 link long arm front and rear it will be out in a couple months, not that we are getting away from our tried and true 3 links but we know that the average customer might want something a bit more "normal"

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post #5 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
That's cool, we don't mind.



OP, when you look at geometry, what are you looking for? We are currently engineering a 4 link long arm front and rear it will be out in a couple months, not that we are getting away from our tried and true 3 links but we know that the average customer might want something a bit more "normal"



Adam C


If we already have the 3 link pro can we just add a 4th control arm?


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post #6 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Redrockjeepin View Post
If we already have the 3 link pro can we just add a 4th control arm?


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In the front you will be able to purchase 2 new upper control arms and use your existing brackets on the frame and factory brackets on the axle to turn the front into a 4 link. In the rear it will be different all around, no easy swap there.

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post #7 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock Krawler Suspension View Post
In the front you will be able to purchase 2 new upper control arms and use your existing brackets on the frame and factory brackets on the axle to turn the front into a 4 link. In the rear it will be different all around, no easy swap there.



Adam C


Curious why you have to buy two arms vs just adding a fourth.


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post #8 of 36 Old 02-16-2018, 07:09 PM
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The teraflex kit does not have better geometry it actually has the worst of the kits listed. I would rank 1. synergy, 2. EVO and would not even consider teraflex.
Actually it really comes down to what you are wanting to get out of your set up and likely could get what you are after with a metal cloak or synergy short arm kit for a lot less money and easier install.

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post #9 of 36 Old 02-17-2018, 06:22 PM
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thedirtman and ALASHA are on point.
I have the Teraflex kit, but I bought it to replace a normal ( short/mid arm ) on a JKU - solely for on-street reasons and since i had to do an arm replacement and mount repair otherwise anyways. If you do get the Teraflex kit, get the Nemesis slider for the lower mount nt just to slide but reinforce.
( I couldn't get the Synergy in stock by when I wanted to install, and I was getting the work done through a shop that doesn't sell EVO.)

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post #10 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
The teraflex kit does not have better geometry it actually has the worst of the kits listed. I would rank 1. synergy, 2. EVO and would not even consider teraflex.
Actually it really comes down to what you are wanting to get out of your set up and likely could get what you are after with a metal cloak or synergy short arm kit for a lot less money and easier install.
Metal cloak seems like a tried and true setup maybe ill go the mid arm route.....
Dirtman, have you installed any of the rock crawler long arms? (That being the x-factor and the pro long arm) If you have what are your thoughts on the install and performance?

Thanks,

Chad

-Nomad
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post #11 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 10:08 AM
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We did a install of the RK Trail gunner and it was one of the worst kits I have ever installed in terms of fit and finish and ride There is a review on this site. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/modifi...ll-review.html It is also on jk-forum with photos.

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post #12 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
We did a install of the RK Trail gunner and it was one of the worst kits I have ever installed in terms of fit and finish and ride There is a review on this site. https://www.jkowners.com/forum/modifi...ll-review.html It is also on jk-forum with photos.

Thanks for the input, looks like you guys had a fun time with the install and tune of the coilovers.

Could be faulty R&D/ Manufacturing/etc. But if I'm shelling out that kind of money (Which is way out of my ball park) I would think a company should have a product such as the trail gunner down pat.

Still doing some more research, and as always thanks again for the info

Best,

Chad

-Nomad
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post #13 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 12:46 PM
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My thoughts as well. For that money and the way people worship them on the forums and facebook the kit should be dialed in and complete not a batch parts thrown in a kit an shipped. Very shoddy from opening boxes to fitting brackets to the test ride and tuning. Last time I checked the site they still had the instructions with bad info in them.

BTW many of the parts from the trail gunner are the same as their other kits like the x-factor. The big difference on the trail gunner is the addition of the bypass related stuff.

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post #14 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrockjeepin View Post
Curious why you have to buy two arms vs just adding a fourth.
I'm curious on this too. I have the ORP on my jeep (and happy with it's performance to date). Lately I've been thinking about a (aluminum) front driver side uca as a trail spare if something seriously fubar ever happens or just put it on if I know some trip is going to be a bombing though washboard style terrain outting vs the standard rock crawling I tend to do.

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post #15 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheNomad&Chad View Post
Narrowing my choices down to three long arms:
Teraflex Lcg longarm
synergy
Evo

I like the design of the teraflex, it doesn't bother me it removes stock brackets and replaces them with more suitable ones. it would appear to me this kit offers the best geometry compared to synergy and Evo.

Does anyone one have experience with it? Im not talking about the alpine system. Do any of you run the synergy/Evo setup?
Thoughts/ideas/experiences would be awesome! Dirtman hopefully you'll help me out here.
I ran a rebel kit with terflex, want wasnt bad but having your coils at 34-36 degrees and you hardly get any compressing in rear. Just a bad design.

I 4linked the rear if my JK and run custom made control arms off fabricated truss.

The terflex are not bad but the heim is, way to fat and limits side to side movement in bracket.


I am selling upper/lowers if my rear teraflex

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post #16 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRauzer View Post
I'm curious on this too. I have the ORP on my jeep (and happy with it's performance to date). Lately I've been thinking about a (aluminum) front driver side uca as a trail spare if something seriously fubar ever happens or just put it on if I know some trip is going to be a bombing though washboard style terrain outting vs the standard rock crawling I tend to do.
If you already have a front three link you should only have to buy one arm along with a new axle joint. The frame mounts RK uses have both the upper and lower all as one and there should be no reason for a different length of arm.

I bet he was confused and was talking about the new rear 4 links they are coming out with. In this case you would need to add both frame upper brackets and two arms since the current 3 link rear arm would not work with the bend it has for clearance.

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post #17 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by moddedbmw View Post
I ran a rebel kit with terflex, want wasnt bad but having your coils at 34-36 degrees and you hardly get any compressing in rear. Just a bad design.

I 4linked the rear if my JK and run custom made control arms off fabricated truss.

The terflex are not bad but the heim is, way to fat and limits side to side movement in bracket.


I am selling upper/lowers if my rear teraflex

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The rebel bolt on kit is shit like other bolt on coil overs and it is a product for those that don't know what they are doing and want coil overs. It gives the end user coil overs but they are poorly set up when used in LCOG builds which most people want.

Teraflex uses a Johnny joint style joint and has plenty of misalignment for a 12" travel shock and should not bind. Heim joint is a different type of joint but also offers max misalignment with the proper spacers.

Your links are mounted to a bridge not a truss. Two very different things. A truss goes from end to end of the axle and is boxed at several points to add rigidity to the axle housing. A bridge just spans the differential to allow you to have mount points there. A bridge offers little strength to the axle. A mistake that is often repeated.

Some build info here:
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post #18 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
If you already have a front three link you should only have to buy one arm along with a new axle joint. The frame mounts RK uses have both the upper and lower all as one and there should be no reason for a different length of arm.

I bet he was confused and was talking about the new rear 4 links they are coming out with. In this case you would need to add both frame upper brackets and two arms since the current 3 link rear arm would not work with the bend it has for clearance.
Coil springs & Six Pack setup? For alittle more cash money I could have coilovers.
Thoughts & opinions from those who have experienced the ride and performance of the six pack setup.

I'm not wildly crazy about how the six pack shock looks, but hey it is tunable and nitrogen charged, so if they work as well as a coilover, then they've got my vote

-Nomad
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post #19 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 02:46 PM
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The 6 pack shocks are not comparable to coil overs. Two different applications. The 6 pack shocks are for those that want max articulation from a minimal lift like running 37's with 2" of lift and require you to run their high fenders and have room to stuff the tires. They are expensive most people that run them don't have them set up correctly. They are a total waste if you are running 40's as you just don't have the up travel needed to utilize them. The 6 packs are all about up travel to gain the overall increased articulation over conventional shocks.

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post #20 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
The 6 pack shocks are not comparable to coil overs. Two different applications. The 6 pack shocks are for those that want max articulation from a minimal lift like running 37's with 2" of lift and require you to run their high fenders and have room to stuff the tires. They are expensive most people that run them don't have them set up correctly. They are a total waste if you are running 40's as you just don't have the up travel needed to utilize them. The 6 packs are all about up travel to gain the overall increased articulation over conventional shocks.
So really the six pack is just going to give me a lot of droop and really not much of a better ride on the trail.

-Nomad
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post #21 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 03:09 PM
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No, a 6 pack shock gains its articulation from up travel not droop a 13" travel 6 pack will have about 3" less overall droop then a 12" 2.0 king coil over. The 6 packs gains its articulation on the up side having a shorter collapsed length.

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post #22 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
The rebel bolt on kit is shit like other bolt on coil overs and it is a product for those that don't know what they are doing and want coil overs. It gives the end user coil overs but they are poorly set up when used in LCOG builds which most people want.

Teraflex uses a Johnny joint style joint and has plenty of misalignment for a 12" travel shock and should not bind. Heim joint is a different type of joint but also offers max misalignment with the proper spacers.

Your links are mounted to a bridge not a truss. Two very different things. A truss goes from end to end of the axle and is boxed at several points to add rigidity to the axle housing. A bridge just spans the differential to allow you to have mount points there. A bridge offers little strength to the axle. A mistake that is often repeated.
Mine are mounted to a truss

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post #23 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
The rebel bolt on kit is shit like other bolt on coil overs and it is a product for those that don't know what they are doing and want coil overs. It gives the end user coil overs but they are poorly set up when used in LCOG builds which most people want.

Teraflex uses a Johnny joint style joint and has plenty of misalignment for a 12" travel shock and should not bind. Heim joint is a different type of joint but also offers max misalignment with the proper spacers.

Your links are mounted to a bridge not a truss. Two very different things. A truss goes from end to end of the axle and is boxed at several points to add rigidity to the axle housing. A bridge just spans the differential to allow you to have mount points there. A bridge offers little strength to the axle. A mistake that is often repeated.
Agree its a crappy kit, I am putting my kings thru tub & bracket up top integrated into cage ect.

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post #24 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 03:34 PM
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Thats a bridge not a truss even though some people call it a truss a truss is a different animal. This is a good example of a truss. A bridge just bridges the diff so you can install mounts.
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post #25 of 36 Old 02-18-2018, 04:01 PM
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Thats a bridge not a truss even though some people call it a truss a truss is a different animal. This is a good example of a truss. A bridge just bridges the diff so you can install mounts.
I agree with that

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