Question for you Dana 60 rock slayers.... - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Question for you Dana 60 rock slayers....

What width did you go with? I'm just doing the back for now, but would love to hear what your combo is.

The standard lengths over at Currie are 66" for the rear and 68-1/2 for the front. I talked to somebody over the weekend that is running 69 rear and 70 front and is also running the Currie Anti Rocks like me.

My tires rub my rear antirocks on full flex now with 37" Pitbulls and 4.5" backspacing. I would really rather have wider axles than less backspacing. Seems to make more sense to me. Currie is wanting a good chunk of change to make them wider. You would think they would just make the standard size wider to begin with since not too many folks are gonna be running a D60 with stock tires and no lift.

For those wondering about running the wider rear axle with the stock D44 front, I would run spacers until one of my kidney's sells and I can afford the front.

Thanks for the input.

I
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post #2 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 09:04 PM
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Running standard width Currie 60, 4" backspacing, and 37" Iroks. No clearance issues for me.

To tell you the truth, I would not want to go wider. I barely fit through trails I used to squeeze through easily. I also have a trailer that I use sometimes, one of the wide ones, and my Jeep barely squeezes on it. I think the Currie width is a perfect balance between stability and the ability to still run "Jeep Trails".
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post #3 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by desert dog View Post
Running standard width Currie 60, 4" backspacing, and 37" Iroks. No clearance issues for me.

To tell you the truth, I would not want to go wider. I barely fit through trails I used to squeeze through easily. I also have a trailer that I use sometimes, one of the wide ones, and my Jeep barely squeezes on it. I think the Currie width is a perfect balance between stability and the ability to still run "Jeep Trails".
What rear sway bar are you running?
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post #4 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 09:20 PM
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Assuming @ some point you will be going to 40's - add width & dont look back.

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post #5 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by crusty1007 View Post
Assuming @ some point you will be going to 40's - add width & dont look back.
That's what I'm thinking. Just wanted to get opinions from you guys that are already there. Thanks for the input Crusty. Missed having you guys there at Savannah.
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post #6 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 10:12 PM
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I have the currie rock jock 60 in the front. Its about 3" wider than the stock axles. I still have the stock 44 in the back and added a set of 1 3/8" spacers in to spread it out a little. Ill eventually get a matching 60 for the back.

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post #7 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by STUPIDFACE View Post
I have the currie rock jock 60 in the front. Its about 3" wider than the stock axles. I still have the stock 44 in the back and added a set of 1 3/8" spacers in to spread it out a little. Ill eventually get a matching 60 for the back.

corey d
Yes, the front one is wider to accommodate the D60 knuckles. Stock is 66 on both axles I believe and the front is 68-3/4 on the currie. I know there are benefits to running the rear narrower than the front and am down with that, but don't want to have to limit flex to prevent rubbing on the rear.

Take the spacers out of the rear and that's what you'd have with the standard Currie rear.
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post #8 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 02:30 PM
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Mike, you know I'm running the stock widths and MTR 40's (39.75 really). Had to add some stop to the front turn stops to stop the tires and the frame rub on the back side. No rear sway bar currently. No rub anywhere now.

I'd talk to John Currie who made a custom setup for his Hemi JK before he sold it I think it was 69.5 in the front and 68 rear, and had no rub with the currie sways and full turn with MTR 40's at 4.5 bs WE's like me. But he did it on a 3" lift.

I chose not to spend the bling on the wider axles.


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post #9 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 02:49 PM
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My rear currie is @ 68.5 and my stock I added spidertrax spacers, works well..

Hopfully I will have the matching front, soon..

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post #10 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Keep it coming.
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post #11 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorHead View Post
What width did you go with? I'm just doing the back for now, but would love to hear what your combo is.

The standard lengths over at Currie are 66" for the rear and 68-1/2 for the front. I talked to somebody over the weekend that is running 69 rear and 70 front and is also running the Currie Anti Rocks like me.

My tires rub my rear antirocks on full flex now with 37" Pitbulls and 4.5" backspacing. I would really rather have wider axles than less backspacing. Seems to make more sense to me. Currie is wanting a good chunk of change to make them wider. You would think they would just make the standard size wider to begin with since not too many folks are gonna be running a D60 with stock tires and no lift.

For those wondering about running the wider rear axle with the stock D44 front, I would run spacers until one of my kidney's sells and I can afford the front.

Thanks for the input.

I

Dang, how much is a good chunk of change? I was planning on a wider rear also so I could run outboard coilovers... but I have time to figure that out cause I'm gonna wait until I grenade my rear (locker is acting up so i'm assuming it's going to be sooner than later).

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post #12 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrelopez99 View Post
My rear currie is @ 68.5 and my stock I added spidertrax spacers, works well..

Hopfully I will have the matching front, soon..
I got the high dollar one out of the way first. That back is less than the front, but still not cheap at all. I have a few things to do before i get the 60 for the rear. If the rock jock rear is narrower than the front, i will use spacers.

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post #13 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STUPIDFACE View Post
I got the high dollar one out of the way first. That back is less than the front, but still not cheap at all. I have a few things to do before i get the 60 for the rear. If the rock jock rear is narrower than the front, i will use spacers.

corey d
The rear is 66", true that about not cheap all... but worth it..

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post #14 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 04:15 PM
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Front Currie RJ 60 - 68.75"
Rear Currie RJ 60 - 66"

Running ATX AX756 Bead Locks with 3.5"of BS.

I'll let you know how that works out once we get the axle installed in a week or so. I don't know if I am going to run a spacer in the rear or not.

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post #15 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prope View Post
Dang, how much is a good chunk of change? I was planning on a wider rear also so I could run outboard coilovers... but I have time to figure that out cause I'm gonna wait until I grenade my rear (locker is acting up so i'm assuming it's going to be sooner than later).
Right now they are trying to get me for about $700 just to add a couple of inches. Really frustrating. I understand that it becomes a custom axle at that point, which is one of the reasons I started this thread.

If most people buying D60's would prefer wider than stock, why don't they make that the standard size? To be honest, the only problem I have is with their rear sway bar which wasn't exactly cheap either. Not trying to knock on their sway bars. I love them and don't want to have to remove the rear, especially after spending a bunch of money on a shiny new D60.

Sorry for the rant. I'm just frustrated because I have the cash in hand ready to order and they aren't working with me too well.
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post #16 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RotorHead View Post
Right now they are trying to get me for about $700 just to add a couple of inches. Really frustrating. I understand that it becomes a custom axle at that point, which is one of the reasons I started this thread.
Mike, I'll try and find what John quoted me but I know it wasn't that much.

You're right, it does make it a custom axle, and I assume it cost more in tube and axle shaft, but that should be all. As you and I discussed, it will also make it harder to get a replacement if something should happen like it did to me, and they overnighted the replacement to me in Moab.

My rear is definitely noticeably narrower than the front and I've contemplated running a spacer for appearance, but that would make it weaker, and the narrow rear helps turning the battleship on the trail and at the mall.



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Last edited by Slippery; 09-22-2010 at 06:13 PM.
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post #17 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorHead View Post
Right now they are trying to get me for about $700 just to add a couple of inches. Really frustrating. I understand that it becomes a custom axle at that point, which is one of the reasons I started this thread.

If most people buying D60's would prefer wider than stock, why don't they make that the standard size? To be honest, the only problem I have is with their rear sway bar which wasn't exactly cheap either. Not trying to knock on their sway bars. I love them and don't want to have to remove the rear, especially after spending a bunch of money on a shiny new D60.

Sorry for the rant. I'm just frustrated because I have the cash in hand ready to order and they aren't working with me too well.
Currie rear D60 is longer than stock by one inch though. Not sure on the front. But I agree with you, needs to be a longer. Just do it and don't look back..when I ordered mine I didn't want to let go of the cash either.

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post #18 of 29 Old 09-22-2010, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Slippery View Post
Mike, I'll try and find what John quoted me but I know it wasn't that much.

You're right, it does make it a custom axle, and I assume it cost more in tube and axle shaft, but that should be all. As you and I discussed, it will also make it harder to get a replacement if something should happen like it did to me, and they overnighted the replacement to me in Moab.

My rear is definitely noticeably narrower than the front and I've contemplated running a spacer for appearance, but that would make it weaker, and the narrow rear helps turning the battleship on the trail and at the mall.


Slippery, your right on the cost, Thats about what the $$$ me - it also involved the readjustments of their JIG.

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post #19 of 29 Old 09-23-2010, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorHead View Post
What width did you go with? I'm just doing the back for now, but would love to hear what your combo is.

The standard lengths over at Currie are 66" for the rear and 68-1/2 for the front. I talked to somebody over the weekend that is running 69 rear and 70 front and is also running the Currie Anti Rocks like me.

My tires rub my rear antirocks on full flex now with 37" Pitbulls and 4.5" backspacing. I would really rather have wider axles than less backspacing. Seems to make more sense to me. Currie is wanting a good chunk of change to make them wider. You would think they would just make the standard size wider to begin with since not too many folks are gonna be running a D60 with stock tires and no lift.

For those wondering about running the wider rear axle with the stock D44 front, I would run spacers until one of my kidney's sells and I can afford the front.

Thanks for the input.

I
I had the same problem with the rear antirocks, I'll take a picture today show what I did to fix this.

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post #20 of 29 Old 09-23-2010, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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I had the same problem with the rear antirocks, I'll take a picture today show what I did to fix this.
Glad to know I'm not alone. Looking forward to the pictures.
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post #21 of 29 Old 09-23-2010, 10:00 AM
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I had the same problem with the rear antirocks, I'll take a picture today show what I did to fix this.
Blue paint fixes rubbing?
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post #22 of 29 Old 09-23-2010, 12:01 PM
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Glad to know I'm not alone. Looking forward to the pictures.
I switched the bottom connections on the drivers side, it did the trick for me.

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post #23 of 29 Old 09-23-2010, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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I switched the bottom connections on the drivers side, it did the trick for me.
Hmm. Not sure how that would help in my case. My tires rub the arms at full droop. I don't have any problems with the links.
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post #24 of 29 Old 09-23-2010, 01:57 PM
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Hmm. Not sure how that would help in my case. My tires rub the arms at full droop. I don't have any problems with the links.
I tried, sorry. Remember, it's the thought that counts.

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post #25 of 29 Old 09-23-2010, 01:59 PM
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I switched the bottom connections on the drivers side, it did the trick for me.
Did you switch under you rear mounts (frame sides), pics?

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