Which heavy duty crossmember? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Which heavy duty crossmember?

Hey gang....

Looking to replace my bashed up OEM crossmember with one of the heavy duty options that are available.

Anyone have thoughts on the options that are available? Seem to be a ton of options - Poison Spyder, Artec, Clayton, Church of eVo.

Just looking for a stronger replacement.
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post #2 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 09:38 AM
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It's extremely easy to make one yourself out of 1/4"2x4 rectangular tube if you're into that type of thing. I chose to flat belly mine with it.
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post #3 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 09:49 AM
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I have used poison spider and Evo. I prefer the Evo only because it comes Powdercoated. Both are very nice pieces.
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post #4 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 10:12 AM
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I had the Poison Spider and it was nice and everything bolted right in but when I get another I will get one that is already powder coated. I never could get the paint to stick and locally they wanted too much to powder coat it.
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post #5 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 10:30 AM
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Iím on my 2nd Poison Spyder crossmember. 1st dented to replacement, 2nd dented but still useable. An inside weld nut popped off this 2nd one as I was reattaching skid after some work. Annoying and you could see it was just a little tack weld.

Any of the members would have dented IMO so equal there but the nut popping off is cheap quality, so for that Iíd use another if I ever replace again.
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post #6 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 10:34 AM
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Would you be interested in a custom one, I have been wanting to get a 3.6 to do some prototyping on.
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post #7 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 10:56 AM
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We make one. Not powder coated, but easy to paint or get coated.
https://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-J...t-p-30914.html
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post #8 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 11:35 AM
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Just replaced my stock with a poison spyder, had to drill only 2 holes to fit the RROR skids on. Yeah no paint on the inside. Oh well I live in AZ we are not known for being in the rust belt.

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post #9 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Would you be interested in a custom one, I have been wanting to get a 3.6 to do some prototyping on.
That sounds great but I am not sure when I could get out your way. I'll see what I can work out and PM you.
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post #10 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 11:47 AM
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i have an Evo. a little work getting it in. but, nothing too bad. the worst part was making sure to get all of the damned packing peanuts out it.

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post #11 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 05:32 PM
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I used the Artec crossmember with the brackets pre installed for long arm 3 link. It fit flawless and the 3 link was a great upgrade. I later ditched the track bar and went 4 link with the help of a drivers side bracket from ruffstuff. Perfect amount of triangulation.
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post #12 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 05:35 PM
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post #13 of 43 Old 01-29-2018, 08:46 PM
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i am overdue and have been shoppin crossmembers for my four door '11 as the oem is squished and not loookin too good.
I'm targeting the Rockhard 4x4 crossmembercause for the $ it's got the most beef ( Artec is beefier). The OEM holes ( including the wiring harness holes like th estock one) will match my skid coverage without resizing or replacing bolts , it's powdercoated inside/out and weighs as much as I wanna add;the other stuff I have of their s is high qual for the $.
Having just receivedauth to buy new tires , I don't wanna spend any more than necessary on this.


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post #14 of 43 Old 01-30-2018, 07:41 AM
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I would recommend running whichever crossmember whose skids you may upgrade to later on down the road.

I'm running EVO skids with the stock gas tank skid, stock transfer case skid, & the Clayton crossmember. I decided on the Clayton with the e-coated finish and will be taking the EVO's off and going to Clayton's transfer, engine, and gas tank skids eventually.

The nice thing is that with Clayton, I can buy everything at once or each piece as the budget allows. (Artec is nice but pretty damn pricey)

The Artec and Rockhard are nice BUT they don't protect the exhaust "trumpet" which is known to get whacked and cause manifold/leak problems. The EVO and the Clayton are the only ones that protect it BUT the EVO's construction, especially on the crossmember/exhaust skid is absolute garbage.
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Last edited by DJ1; 01-30-2018 at 08:00 AM.
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post #15 of 43 Old 01-31-2018, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedirtman View Post
Would you be interested in a custom one, I have been wanting to get a 3.6 to do some prototyping on.
I got one that's in desperate need of a crossmember and I'm in reno.
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post #16 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ1 View Post
I would recommend running whichever crossmember whose skids you may upgrade to later on down the road.

I'm running EVO skids with the stock gas tank skid, stock transfer case skid, & the Clayton crossmember. I decided on the Clayton with the e-coated finish and will be taking the EVO's off and going to Clayton's transfer, engine, and gas tank skids eventually.

The nice thing is that with Clayton, I can buy everything at once or each piece as the budget allows. (Artec is nice but pretty damn pricey)

The Artec and Rockhard are nice BUT they don't protect the exhaust "trumpet" which is known to get whacked and cause manifold/leak problems. The EVO and the Clayton are the only ones that protect it BUT the EVO's construction, especially on the crossmember/exhaust skid is absolute garbage.
are you referring to the exhaust loop on Ď12s and up ? Yeah, that is a factor that I hadnít considered since Iím an Ď11 but OP, @White13JKUR obviously would take that into consideration.
I wouldnít be goin too far out on a limb to assume most guys that see real trailtime do delete that and add spacers to eliminate that loop, yeah?

Anyway, I agree on runnin what works for any skid setup already in place.

Oh, fwiw , the rockhard4x4 crossmember has a version offered for the 12s and up, too
Jeep Wrangler JK 3.6L Crossmember
My inclination was to go with the Synergy or the Artec but for the MORE and Rockhard Franken-skid combo I run , havin a big ole stock crossmember was best for me. Plus, Iíve seen the powder coating rockhard4x4 uses and it is some of the best. Anyway, another subjective upgrade part for JKs, whoda thunk?





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post #17 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
[COLOR="Mediumturquoise"]are you referring to the exhaust loop on Ď12s and up ? Yeah, that is a factor that I hadnít considered since Iím an Ď11 but OP, @White13JKUR obviously would take that into consideration.
I wouldnít be goin too far out on a limb to assume most guys that see real trailtime do delete that and add spacers to eliminate that loop, yeah?

The loop/trumpet is there to keep exhaust lengths the same length otherwise you get funky exhaust back pressure coming into the y-pipe. Unless you're running a true dual exhaust setup, which I have yet to see someone do on a JK 2012+ unless Genright/Motech does it on their builds after relocating the gas tank, you're stuck with the trumpet.

Adding to that, for those in Commiefornia, you also can't "legally" relocate your gas tank for a street driven d/d rig.
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post #18 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ1 View Post
The loop/trumpet is there to keep exhaust lengths the same length otherwise you get funky exhaust back pressure coming into the y-pipe. Unless you're running a true dual exhaust setup, which I have yet to see someone do on a JK 2012+ unless Genright/Motech does it on their builds after relocating the gas tank, you're stuck with the trumpet.

Adding to that, for those in Commiefornia, you also can't "legally" relocate your gas tank for a street driven d/d rig.
yeah, I know what it's for but I've seen Afe, Magnaflow and several others offer solutions which remove the loop (as well as users on here that have replacement runs for getting rid of that without dual exhausts.)

Doesn't Clayton offer the Afe?






I am pretty sure I've see one of our vendors , ExtremeTerrain offer one on the adverts, iirc.


I cannot , on that note, imagine it's cause too much interference or enough to merit replacing it. Although, I have had stumps and big ass ricks hit shit I never thought they could up and under. but, I do understand the length being necessary for proper scavenging and pressure back to the powerplant to be equal to the other 3 ports.
Just askin.


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Last edited by j3ff3ry_j33p; 02-01-2018 at 01:36 PM.
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post #19 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j3ff3ry_j33p View Post
yeah, I know what it's for but I've seen Afe, Magnaflow and several others offer solutions which remove the loop (as well as users on here that have replacement runs for getting rid of that without dual exhausts.)

Doesn't Clayton offer the Afe?






I am pretty sure I've see one of our vendors , ExtremeTerrain offer one on the adverts, iirc.


I cannot , on that note, imagine it's cause too much interference or enough to merit replacing it. Although, I have had stumps and big ass ricks hit shit I never thought they could up and under. but, I do understand the length being necessary for proper scavenging and pressure back to the powerplant to be equal to the other 3 ports.
Just askin.

Nice! I figured Magnaflow probably had a "fix" for it. After slapping on a Dynomax back in 2012 I haven't researched any of the exhaust options since.

I guess if our JK was more a trail rig and seeing only a few thousand miles a year, I would consider the loop delete mod but with the 3.6 already being anemic as it is (although much better than the 3.8 imo), at least for me it's best to keep the engine running efficient as possible.

We've had guys who play in the rocks bang them up. Doesn't happen all the time but when it does and you later find out that you have to replace the manifold and your warranty is up, then you wish you had it protected.

If you're already shelling out for skids, may as well go for the one with the most protection and the better quality if the price is essentially the same. The EVO skids are cheaper but how it's all setup is garbage really. The only reason I have them is because they were the only one's readily available for the 2-door prior to my first Rubicon Trail run.
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post #20 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 07:06 PM
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The 3.6L has no exhaust manifold. It's built into the head. Do people actually have to replace their head after hitting the exhaust loop?
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post #21 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 09:01 PM
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The 3.6L has no exhaust manifold. It's built into the head. Do people actually have to replace their head after hitting the exhaust loop?
Yup exactly. You're changing out the head. The exhaust flange is typically the victim because the exhaust tube ends up acting like a huge lever when slamming down on a big boulder.

You either replace the head/manifold or your try to weld/seam it back up. Either way it's time and time = $$.

Ain't nobody got time for that...

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post #22 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 09:46 PM
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Yup exactly. You're changing out the head. The exhaust flange is typically the victim because the exhaust tube ends up acting like a huge lever when slamming down on a big boulder.

You either replace the head/manifold or your try to weld/seam it back up. Either way it's time and time = $$.

Ain't nobody got time for that...
Well that'd suck. I ain't got time for that. I need to get around to deleting that since I already have dual exhaust straight back. Just been too lazy to actually do the job. I figured worst case was denting the pipe and being no worse off than I already am. I'll get right on that in the next few weeks.
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post #23 of 43 Old 02-01-2018, 11:11 PM
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QUOTE=christensent;4359274]Well that'd suck. I ain't got time for that. I need to get around to deleting that since I already have dual exhaust straight back. Just been too lazy to actually do the job. I figured worst case was denting the pipe and being no worse off than I already am. I'll get right on that in the next few weeks.[/QUOTE]

I was in AZ this week for work and took a day to do a little wheeling / exploring. When I got back home, I was looking at the under side and noticed that I must have bashed my loop at some point. Total oh shit moment. My theory is it's used as a sound baffle. I don't believe it would offer much scavenging benefit.
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post #24 of 43 Old 02-02-2018, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snout View Post
My theory is it's used as a sound baffle. I don't believe it would offer much scavenging benefit.
Additional sound baffling typically uses a mid-muffler / resonator. This section here is just bent tube with no baffling.

I'm pretty sure the engineering behind the loop here accounts for the extra exhaust length needed to match the length of exhaust crossing over from the passenger side.

*edit*
...had to dig up the diagram on the original 2012+ exhaust and the mid-muffler/resonator is there but not at the loop. It's part #4 after the y-pipe...

https://www.quadratec.com/parts/jeep...-exhaust-parts


.

Last edited by DJ1; 02-02-2018 at 02:38 AM.
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post #25 of 43 Old 02-02-2018, 02:30 AM
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On a separate note, looks like Magnaflow has a cat-back exhaust with loop delete. Looks like they address the unequal lengths caused by the loop delete by engineering in larger pipe diameter....

https://www.dieselops.com/magnaflow-...3-6l-2012-2015

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/c...ront-pipes#tab
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