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post #1 of 29 Old 09-19-2010, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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detriot locker or ox locker

Is it a bad idea to put the detriot true lock in my jk or go with the ox? this jk is my daily driver but a do alot of wheeling.
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post #2 of 29 Old 09-19-2010, 07:49 PM
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I wouldn't spend a lot of money on the dana 30 front. For me I left my front open for now and put a detroit in the rear until I decide whether I'm gonna swap that front axle or not. I just can't see spending OX $ on a Dana 30, but that's just me.
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post #3 of 29 Old 09-19-2010, 08:29 PM
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True Trac limited slip? Or a full locker? Front or rear, or both?

The true trac is probably the best limited on the market, and with a little brake finesse, can function 'like' a true locker. The downside would be if you have a tire or tires in the air a lot of your time offroad. Keep them mostly on the ground, and it will be great. (with better manners than a lunchbox, and they are only $375ish for the front D30 vs 800-1000 for a selectable)

Never used an Ox, but just from the sheer number of complaints I read (the majority being cable related) I wouldn't get one myself. And I wouldn't spend a grand on a d30 locker in any case...


You could also check the other two locker threads here on the first page

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post #4 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 02:05 PM
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how does the detroit do on the rear on the street? I was thinking of going this route in a year or two, just locking the rear and going with automatic so there is less stuff that can go wrong.
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post #5 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 02:40 PM
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I've got Detroits front/rear. Takes a little to get used to it on the street, but if you drive it like a Jeep, it'll be just fine. Can't power hard through a turn, it'll lock up and bark the tire. Leave it unlock and do it's thing around a turn and it'll be like it isn't there. Off road, it's a beast.

To those who say don't invest in the D30, you guys are soo full of it. There's more locked D30s on 35s-37s in the club I'm with who pin the shit out of their rigs and it holds just fine. You don't need D60s to wheel unless you want to be running 37s+.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester116th View Post
Confucius say "If you no want break axle, Drive with BIG head not LITTLE head"
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post #6 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Suffolk JK View Post

To those who say don't invest in the D30, you guys are soo full of it. There's more locked D30s on 35s-37s in the club I'm with who pin the shit out of their rigs and it holds just fine. You don't need D60s to wheel unless you want to be running 37s+.
agreed, it's not like the JK 44 is this awesome axle...

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #7 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
agreed, it's not like the JK 44 is this awesome axle...
He's just saying if you plan on running 35s or less you're probably fine with the D30. I'm doing the same thing with mine except Eaton up front.
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post #8 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by OttawaJeeper View Post
He's just saying if you plan on running 35s or less you're probably fine with the D30. I'm doing the same thing with mine except Eaton up front.

i get what he's saying, i get sick of hearing about everyone "needing" to upgrade their axle, etc when they're not even close to breaking stuff yet...

that's all i was getting at.

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #9 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
i get what he's saying, i get sick of hearing about everyone "needing" to upgrade their axle, etc when they're not even close to breaking stuff yet...

that's all i was getting at.
Yeah, we're both arguing the same point.

Dana 44 is overkill from the factory and isn't NEEDED until you go beyond 35s.
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post #10 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by OttawaJeeper View Post
Yeah, we're both arguing the same point.

Dana 44 is overkill from the factory and isn't NEEDED until you go beyond 35s.

it isn't even needed when you go over 35's, lots of guys run 37's on dana 30's with no problems.

the 44 has the same weak C's, same outer stub shafts, same ujoints, same unit bearings, same knuckles... the factory 44 isn't that big of an upgrade over the 30

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #11 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
it isn't even needed when you go over 35's, lots of guys run 37's on dana 30's with no problems.

the 44 has the same weak C's, same outer stub shafts, same ujoints, same unit bearings, same knuckles... the factory 44 isn't that big of an upgrade over the 30
Yeah I know a few people with 38s on the Dana 30 but all of them keep spare shafts and replace one or two a season. They are saving for bigger axles.

My personal limit is 35s but I see no reason why 37s wouldn't be a problem if you have spare shafts just in case
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post #12 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 04:44 PM
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I've been through both sides of shafts a few times, but who cares, it's a shaft. As long as the R&P/carrier stay together, I'll break a couple shafts a year.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester116th View Post
Confucius say "If you no want break axle, Drive with BIG head not LITTLE head"
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post #13 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 05:25 PM
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Detroit in the back is no big deal. Like said above, you just have to get used to it's road manners then you won't even notice. I've had several.

Up front though if you live anywhere with snow, get a selectable locker. Detroits and lunch box lockers in the snow are fine on the trail but make it almost impossible to drive in 4x4 on the street in the snow/ice unless you just want to go straight.
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post #14 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olean NY Jeeper View Post
how does the detroit do on the rear on the street? I was thinking of going this route in a year or two, just locking the rear and going with automatic so there is less stuff that can go wrong.
With the full locker in the rear I don't really notice it. I left the front open for now because I flat tow behind the RV sometimes. Can't have an aggressive locker up there because I don't want to have to pull the drive shafts to go on a trip, so it's either leave it open or put in something you engage manually - and I just don't want to spend that kind of money on a dana 30. I'm running 35's already and will be going to 37's within a year, so I will probably be upgrading that axle. At that point I'll probably just buy the complete dana 44 front with the electric locker built in.
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post #15 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 10:14 PM
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Between our 3 Jeeps I've run an OX, a "full" Detroit, and an ARB. ARB is and would be my first choice for a locker were I building another axle. My XJ has a Detroit in the back and while it's not bad on the road, it's annoying in a daily driver that sees commuting traffic. The internal backlash coupled with lower gearing (4.56s) creates a bit of a "kick" as the driveline transitions between coast and power as you get on and off the gas. If I blip the gas just right while coasting you'd think we got bumped from behind by another car. It'll also roll a couple of inches in Park if I don't set the e-brake (auto trans). Offroad it's excellent though, but I'd never use a Detroit again personally for a daily driver. After my experiences with a Detroit in the back of my XJ, I put an ARB in the back of our TJ.

We had an OX in the front of our TJ and honestly can't understand how people can screw up the cable install. Unless you route it wrong and melt the cable, it's all spring loaded now so there's really not that much adjustment that has to be done to get it to work properly. Bonus with the OX is the heavy-duty cover you get, and shifters are cooler than switches. Cable routing and shifter location can be troublesome though, and we have had our fair share of OX troubles (though they were ALL related to 1st gen design flaws which have since been corrected and OX was always great to deal with).

Like I said at the start though, my choice would be ARB. Got one in the front of the XJ and put one in the back of the TJ, and if we hadn't gotten a Rubicon JK, it'd be rockin' a pair of ARBs. As far as ARB vs OX goes, for me a lot really just boiled down to air line is easier to route than cable, and switches are easier to find a place for than the shifters. The all-mechanical action of the OX definitely wins in the KISS department though.

I'll echo the others' sentiments on the durability of the D30 though. Both our XJ and TJ have D30s (low pinion at that!), are locked, with low gearing, and 35" tires (and some 36" beadlocked IROKs for a while) and have never let us down.

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post #16 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navyjkwheeler View Post
Is it a bad idea to put the detriot true lock in my jk or go with the ox? this jk is my daily driver but a do alot of wheeling.
D30 o 44....?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron R View Post
I wouldn't spend a lot of money on the dana 30 front. For me I left my front open for now and put a detroit in the rear until I decide whether I'm gonna swap that front axle or not. I just can't see spending OX $ on a Dana 30, but that's just me.
x2... Don't spend any $$$ on it if its a D30.


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post #17 of 29 Old 09-20-2010, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k2wranglerx View Post
it isn't even needed when you go over 35's, lots of guys run 37's on dana 30's with no problems.

the 44 has the same weak C's, same outer stub shafts, same ujoints, same unit bearings, same knuckles... the factory 44 isn't that big of an upgrade over the 30
Umm... no. Outer stubs on the JK44 are 32-Spline, u-joints are bigger, Unit Bearings are different, and the JK44 gears are nearly as thick as the D60 gears.
A JK44 is a significant upgrade over the 30. Add a truss/sleeves and some gussets to make it even better.
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post #18 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
Umm... no. Outer stubs on the JK44 are 32-Spline, u-joints are bigger, Unit Bearings are different, and the JK44 gears are nearly as thick as the D60 gears.
A JK44 is a significant upgrade over the 30. Add a truss/sleeves and some gussets to make it even better.
Sorry but the outers are 27 spline just like the dana 30

Model 44 Chromoly Front Axle Kit by TEN Factory
2007-10 JK Wrangler, Rubicon and Unlimited
Inner spline 1.31"- 30
Outer spline 1.16"-27
4340 Chromoly material – High strength and ductility
Dual heat treated
Torque equalizing diameters
U-joints not included


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post #19 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 04:56 AM
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Unit bearings are the same, outer stubs are the same spline count, tubes are the same, and no, the D44 R&P is not as big as a D60.

To those saying you shouldn't invest in a D30, I REALLY hope you wheel the piss out of your rig and have grenaded the D30 a few times to say that. Otherwise, stop being fed what other people on the interweb have been saying.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jester116th View Post
Confucius say "If you no want break axle, Drive with BIG head not LITTLE head"
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post #20 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suffolk JK View Post
Unit bearings are the same, outer stubs are the same spline count, tubes are the same, and no, the D44 R&P is not as big as a D60.

To those saying you shouldn't invest in a D30, I REALLY hope you wheel the piss out of your rig and have grenaded the D30 a few times to say that. Otherwise, stop being fed what other people on the interweb have been saying.
Most people just repeat and repeat thats all. Look at Jeepforum.com they all run 33-35s and anything outside of that is crazy. lol
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post #21 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Co4Lo View Post
Umm... no. Outer stubs on the JK44 are 32-Spline, u-joints are bigger, Unit Bearings are different, and the JK44 gears are nearly as thick as the D60 gears.
A JK44 is a significant upgrade over the 30. Add a truss/sleeves and some gussets to make it even better.
u sure about that? i'm pretty sure knuckles out it uses the exact same stuff

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #22 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 07:36 AM
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u sure about that? i'm pretty sure knuckles out it uses the exact same stuff
I've been wrong before. I'm picking up the JK from Avenger today and have some spare OEM shafts in the back. I'm pretty sure that I have physically counted the splines, and am "fairly confident" that they are 30-spline inner and 32-spline outer. BUT... I will confirm in a couple hours.
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post #23 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 07:42 AM
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i plan on using the detroit tru-trac in the rear and the aussie in the front when i do my gear install

ill be running 5.13 gears with 35's till i get my 37's...i wonder how that will be

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wtb: d44 rcv shafts, hydro assist setup, supercharger, 12 or 14" red ori stx struts
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post #24 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 08:00 AM
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dana 30 part number NATIONAL Part # 513272 Hub Assembly

dana 44 part number NATIONAL Part # 513272 Hub Assembly

looks the same to me

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #25 of 29 Old 09-21-2010, 08:54 AM
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Co4Lo is right on with his specs. The outer stub axles (and all parts from the 'C' out) on a 30 are 32 spline and identical to a 44 EXCEPT for the u-joint size.

The larger R&P in the JK is a sturdy piece. How many front 44 R&P failures have we seen on this board, or heard of anywhere? Very, very few. So now that we've discounted the front R&P as a weak piece, let's move on to the axles. Using the most popular option, RCV axles, how many D44 failures there? Again, very, very few. With a 4340 inner shaft and a 32 spine 300M outer, the RCV shaft is a great axle shaft. I'm NOT saying that this stuff is Dana 60 strength but I am saying that it is worthy for many JK owners.

From Superior's site-
OUTER STUB; 32 SPLINE; 07 - NEWER JK W/D30 OR D44 [PA6567]

The PA6567 Outer Front Axle is for the 2007 and newer Jeep Wrangler (JK). It is a direct replacement for the Dana 30 Spline (Non Rubicon) axle, but must be used with the Superior inner shaft for Rubicon Wrangler.
Superior's Evolution Series front axle shafts are made in the USA and are designed with the serious competitor in mind. They feature rolled splines for longer life, beefy ears with reinforced u-joint holes and proprietary heat treating. Superior axles are competition tough and will stand up to the punishment of today's off-road vehicles. Evolution front axle shafts come with Superior's standard lifetime warranty. $189.75
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