D30 Drag link questions and help - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-12-2010, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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D30 Drag link questions and help

Ok here's my issue, the drag link ball joint that connects to the knuckle on my D30 is shot and the joint that connects to the pitman has a rip in the boot. Also, I'd love to find a frame brace while I'm at it that is strickly sold as a brace. I don't have a ton of money to spend on a flip kit to be installed since I have no skills with a reamer or any welding experience. I need a stronger replacement but have't come across any options other than a factory replacement. Any suggestions???

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post #2 of 11 Old 09-12-2010, 04:10 PM
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If you can drill a hole, the poly flip kit is for you. Dont need a reamer, you can use a 7/8 drill bit (think that was the size), they have a tapered sleeve that works. Got to get a tie rod any way. The flip kit handles great on a lifted rig.
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-12-2010, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Not entirely true. The Poly kit requires you to have their track bar bracket which has to be welded on. I would rather have the flip kit but I would have to get a new steering stabilizer set up (have the RC dual set up), I would have to hire someone to weld and ream/drill on top of paying for the parts. I can really only afford around $300 for a fix ATM.

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post #4 of 11 Old 09-12-2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bOLsAK3 View Post
Not entirely true. The Poly kit requires you to have their track bar bracket which has to be welded on. I would rather have the flip kit but I would have to get a new steering stabilizer set up (have the RC dual set up), I would have to hire someone to weld and ream/drill on top of paying for the parts. I can really only afford around $300 for a fix ATM.
What? I think you're confused.

http://polyperformance.com/shop/Poly...t-p-16402.html

Bolt on. There is a weld on option.

Sell that dual stab set up (it's not doing anything anyway) to pay for part of the flip kit. Slap a stock stab on there (I have two, I'll send them to you) and you're good to go.

The drilling part? Easy man. You can operate a drill.
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-12-2010, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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What? I think you're confused.

http://polyperformance.com/shop/Poly...t-p-16402.html

Bolt on. There is a weld on option.

Sell that dual stab set up (it's not doing anything anyway) to pay for part of the flip kit. Slap a stock stab on there (I have two, I'll send them to you) and you're good to go.

The drilling part? Easy man. You can operate a drill.
Ok... Well it's $300 for the kit with the relocation bracket, But I'm still left without a stabilizer (forget that, just saw your freebee offer) and still no upper boot solution. BTW what kind of drilling is required? I can sell the RC stabilizer but not really for much, and it's not in the best looking shape. I'll be running over budget... Great suggestion but do you have any other option ideas maybe? Will be definetely looking further into that idea though.

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post #6 of 11 Old 09-13-2010, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
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Ok... Well it's $300 for the kit with the relocation bracket, But I'm still left without a stabilizer (forget that, just saw your freebee offer) and still no upper boot solution. BTW what kind of drilling is required? I can sell the RC stabilizer but not really for much, and it's not in the best looking shape. I'll be running over budget... Great suggestion but do you have any other option ideas maybe? Will be definetely looking further into that idea though.
Well, I've got a stock drag link at home. I think it has about 6k on it. Pretty good shape. I can send that to you, just cover the shipping, and I need to find a box. You'd still need to fix the pitman arm end though.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-14-2010, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks alot! Much appreciated, I'll let you know.


I'm surprised that I'm looking at only a small set of choices about which way to go on this. I figured there would be a company out there that makes stronger replacement parts for both factory draglink joints without doin the flip, i figured there would be more than a couple frame brace options

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post #8 of 11 Old 09-14-2010, 11:06 AM
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You can run the Poly Draglink in the stock location, under the steering arm with out flipping it. You can flip it at a later time by just buying the bolt on axle bracket. What 'frame brace' were you looking for?

Those of you that think you know everything really annoy those of us that do!
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-14-2010, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks alot! Much appreciated, I'll let you know.


I'm surprised that I'm looking at only a small set of choices about which way to go on this. I figured there would be a company out there that makes stronger replacement parts for both factory draglink joints without doin the flip, i figured there would be more than a couple frame brace options
you can run the currie in either configuration. the ends are fuly rebuildable and flippable and i have yet to see a TRE that's as beefy as a currie


the downside.... it's 400 bucks for the drag link, and 400 for the tie rod

31 jeeps in... still have issues
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-19-2010, 03:02 PM
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Get the rock krawler drag link and moog ES3624 TRE's from Advance Auto. They are 25 bucks each and greasable.

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post #11 of 11 Old 12-19-2010, 03:43 PM
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I don't know if this what your after but the clayton kit is in your price range, they are having a sale right now.. Bolt it on in your driveway and drive it to the shop for a quick weld. I had mine put on about 10,000 miles ago. It helps get everything up and it made a noticeable handling difference, (but that might be due to the stock stuff being clapped out) here's a link..
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/274
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