What lift for 40" tires? - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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What lift for 40" tires?

A buddy of mine just got a 2011 Rubicon. He wants to put 40" tires on it. What size lift is required for that? TIA. He is going to do flat fenders, front and rear bumbers, winch, gears, super charger and what ever else he can think of. We just wanna be sure what size lift he needs for the 40"s.

Last edited by randyb; 09-08-2010 at 07:55 AM.
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post #2 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by randyb View Post
A buddy of mine just got a 2011 Rubicon. He wants to put 40" tires on it. What size lift is required for that? TIA.
Dude, I dont think your buddy is ready for 40s. There is alot of other stuff you need to do besides just a lift.

You can fit 40s with as little as 2.5" of lift if you have high clearance fenders and dont mind cutting.
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post #3 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ALASHA View Post
Dude, I dont think your buddy is ready for 40s. There is alot of other stuff you need to do besides just a lift.

You can fit 40s with as little as 2.5" of lift if you have high clearance fenders and dont mind cutting.
Let me rephrase that statement then. OP udated.

Last edited by randyb; 09-08-2010 at 07:56 AM.
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post #4 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 07:57 AM
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With flat flares, a 1" body lift, and some fender well trimming, you can run most 40s on wheels with 3.5" or less backspacing, with 3.25" front and rear extended bumpstops.

As a result, with flat flares and a 1" body lift, any 3.5" or taller lift with all adjustable control arms, and front and rear trackbars will get you mostly there if you also run the 3.25" extended bumpstops.

With the flat flares, but without the 1" body lift, you would need 4.25" or more extended bumpstops. So, that would put you in the net 5" lift or more range.

I am running 40s on springs that gave me 3.125" with 0.5" coil spacers added, the rear axle stretched back 0.75", relocated rear frameside trackbar bracket, relocated rear swaybar, a 1" body lift, and flat flares on wheels with 3" net backspacing and much longer than stock steering stops.

Of course, this does not include any of the drivetrain and steering upgrades needed for 40s.

Here is where people typically must trim/cut the body:




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post #5 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you Planman. That is the info i'm looking for. I did forget to mention that his Jeep is an unlimited. I'm trying to convince him to stick with 35"s and the 4" teraflex full flex lift.
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post #6 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 08:20 AM
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40s are nice but to be honest a 4" teraflex with 35s is going to look funny IMO on an unlimited. I run 37s on a 6" and it's borderline and hence the reason i'll be upping it to 38s or 39s. if you get him settled on the 4" then he should go with 37s to 40s. but in the end it's what HE wants to do. 37s and larger were just made for the unlimiteds

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post #7 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyb View Post
Thank you Planman. That is the info i'm looking for. I did forget to mention that his Jeep is an unlimited. I'm trying to convince him to stick with 35"s and the 4" teraflex full flex lift.
If he does a 2.5"-3" lift with 35s, he can skip:

rear upper and lower adjustable control arms
front upper adjustable control arms
driveshafts
hydro assist steering
chromoly axle shafts
rear swaybar relocation
welded in front axle sleeves
welded in front axle gussets
welded on front axle truss
welded on and custom cut rear frameside trackbar bracket
rear tire carrier beefy enough to hold a 135 lbs+ spare
flat flares
body lift
aftermarket and/or reinforced front and rear axle side trackbar brackets

It will handle better on the street and go 90%-99% of the places he wants to wheel.

Then with the $6,000-$7,000+ savings, he can buy a used TJ or YJ on 1 ton axles and 40" bias ply tires with an Atlas transfer case and full cage trail rig on Pirate4x4.com.

There would be even more savings if he was considering a long arm.

If I were to do it over again, that is what I would have done.

Like eMetal says, it depends on what he wants to do.

If he wants to beat the shit out of his daily driver by taking it places that still have some sort of challenge for a rig on 40s--or if he is building it for show--then he should build it on 40s.

If he wants a great daily driver and weekend wheeler but doesn't want to beat the shit out of it, then he would be better off spending the same money on a dedicated trail rig and build his Unlimited Rubi for 35s.


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Last edited by planman; 09-08-2010 at 08:31 AM.
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post #8 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by .:eMETAL:. View Post
40s are nice but to be honest a 4" teraflex with 35s is going to look funny IMO on an unlimited. I run 37s on a 6" and it's borderline and hence the reason i'll be upping it to 38s or 39s. if you get him settled on the 4" then he should go with 37s to 40s. but in the end it's what HE wants to do. 37s and larger were just made for the unlimiteds
Both of these Jeeps are on 4" teraflex full flex lifts with 35"s. IMO they both look fine and preform fine. 37" do look better if you have flat fenders. They look like shit with stock fenders.

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post #9 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by randyb View Post
Thank you Planman. That is the info i'm looking for. I did forget to mention that his Jeep is an unlimited. I'm trying to convince him to stick with 35"s and the 4" teraflex full flex lift.
Awesome!! If he has any questions, tell him to call us on it.


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post #10 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .:eMETAL:. View Post
40s are nice but to be honest a 4" teraflex with 35s is going to look funny IMO on an unlimited. I run 37s on a 6" and it's borderline and hence the reason i'll be upping it to 38s or 39s. if you get him settled on the 4" then he should go with 37s to 40s. but in the end it's what HE wants to do. 37s and larger were just made for the unlimiteds
C'mon e! The 4" TF and 35's isn't bad! But, my 35's are for sale after all.
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post #11 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 12:24 PM
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As already mentioned you can run 40's with not a lot of lift. I have about 5" of lift and 40's on rims with 4" BS, and they rub hard at the front with stock width axles. A little less backspacing would help some, but full width axles is the ultimate answer. Extending the steering stops stops the rubbing for the most part, but you lose a lot of turning radius.

Hydro assist is a big help and will be appreciated off-road.

Make sure the bumpers are small, I have a PJ stubby front bumper that required about 6" to be cut off each side.

C gussets and sleeves (or truss) make a lot of sense at the front. RCV shafts handle 40's well. Aftermarket rear shafts are a good idea too.

FWIW 37's and 4" of lift makes a lot more sense to me, and I don't think you lose much to 40's.
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post #12 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 12:38 PM
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I second PhilD's comments. We are running very similar setups; mine being a true settled 5.5" of lift. My wheel backspacing is 3.5". Minimal rubbing on frame, by 1/2" at most; no steering stop change at the moment. I have had to do no cutting in the front.

Very stable at Rubicon recently, with angles well into 40-50%.

I am not one who would go back to 37s though. 40s are awesome!!!!
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post #13 of 25 Old 09-08-2010, 07:55 PM
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Running 40's takes a bit more planning. I just put 40's on my Unlimited..With only 3.5" of Rock Krawler lift. Besides all the obvious extra strengthening. You will have to revert to Hydro assist steering with in a year. Even sooner if you wheel it all the time.

Put it this way..So that you don't break it every time you wheel it if you have a heavy pedal....Expect to start at $8,000 in parts and labor. If he wants to drive it on the highway you can get away a lot cheaper..

Its a commitment. You either do it right or, expect shop time and more bill's..lol

Just my .02$
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Past jeep:
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- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain

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post #14 of 25 Old 01-06-2011, 11:21 AM
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$
Quite awesome. Was this pic taken on the Hell's Revenge trail in the "Escalator"? I've been there, just looked like it. Very Very neat Jeep you got there Sir. Thanks for sharing.

Pics of my Jeep....
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07 2 Door Red Rocker, 6 speed, AFE intake, 2.5 Terraflex plus 1", 5.13's, rear locked, 35" Cooper STT's on 15" Ions, EVO Sleeves & Gussets, DIY Bumpers & stuff.
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post #15 of 25 Old 01-06-2011, 11:44 AM
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4" Teraflex lift with flatties and some pinch trimming will work just fine.
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post #16 of 25 Old 01-06-2011, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 07XMan2Door View Post
Quite awesome. Was this pic taken on the Hell's Revenge trail in the "Escalator"? I've been there, just looked like it. Very Very neat Jeep you got there Sir. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. That pic is from Hells Gate.


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post #17 of 25 Old 01-06-2011, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyb View Post
A buddy of mine just got a 2011 Rubicon. He wants to put 40" tires on it. What size lift is required for that? TIA. He is going to do flat fenders, front and rear bumbers, winch, gears, super charger and what ever else he can think of. We just wanna be sure what size lift he needs for the 40"s.
Randy,
I run 40" Toyo mud terrains on my Unlimited - give me a call at 866-900-8841 and I'll talk you or your buddy through it. Let's make sure though that 40" tires are what he needs.
Cheers,
Bond
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post #18 of 25 Old 01-10-2011, 06:55 PM
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OK, I haven't read every inch of this thread, but just a quick reply, 35's on a 4" kit is going to look like training wheels, we put 37's on the wifes JKU, with 5:13's, and when the time comes we're going to 39's or 40's

Todd
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40 Toyo Open Countrys on Workz Rims
OrFab Rear Bumper, Smittybilt Front
Cree Light Bar
7.5 Long Arm Lift
Synergy Front Suspension
Artec Front JK Armor
5:13's
Tom Woods Drive Shafts
Hi-Lift & Much More
&
2000 TJ
6" lift
37 TOYO MT's on Worx Rims
$hitty Built bumpers
Air Raid
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post #19 of 25 Old 04-24-2016, 08:16 PM
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new unlimited questions

I am new to jeeps and am looking to get a new unlimited. Wont be doing much 4 wheeling but want something that looks good and my 3 young kids will have fun cruising around town in. Should i be getting the 3.73 gears and the trac loc? i am really wanting to do 40's but it seems like a lot of people think the 37's are better as far as having much less mods to do? 4" lift clear both? I am fine with doing the poison spider fenders for clearance, i just don't want to be doing a ton of other major mods as again i probably won't be off road much other than fields and safe area with the kids. Again new to jeeps so anything helps. Thanks.
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post #20 of 25 Old 04-25-2016, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian B View Post
I am new to jeeps and am looking to get a new unlimited. Wont be doing much 4 wheeling but want something that looks good and my 3 young kids will have fun cruising around town in. Should i be getting the 3.73 gears and the trac loc? i am really wanting to do 40's but it seems like a lot of people think the 37's are better as far as having much less mods to do? 4" lift clear both? I am fine with doing the poison spider fenders for clearance, i just don't want to be doing a ton of other major mods as again i probably won't be off road much other than fields and safe area with the kids. Again new to jeeps so anything helps. Thanks.
You answered your own question. Stick with 37s as 40s will require more stuff.

4" is more than enough lift but 3.73 gears isnt. I would definitely consider a numerically higher ratio.
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post #21 of 25 Old 04-25-2016, 08:40 AM
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It is really going to come down to what you want.
You can go with a lcog build and do like planman suggests in his post or you can go 6"+ where the jeep is over the tires and you don't have to do so much cutting. Does he want a bolt on solution or is a custom or semi custom set up doable? Are you concerned about articulation? lcog builds offer great handling and performance but make it tough to do long travel and you will typically have very limited up travel. One thing I don't agree with planman on is the wheel bs of 3.25". I see the need on a lcog build to be in the net 1.5" bs range to run a 40x13.5" tire which you can get there with the 3.25" bs and a set of 1.75" wheel adapters. No disrespect to planman and maybe his tires have a narrow section width. Wheel width will make a difference here as well so that may be the difference our thinking.

Are the 40's for show or are they for trail?
With a supercharged armored JKU on 40's he should be looking into at least a full float full width ton axle. This will require a different bolt pattern then the JK 5x5. I would recommend a front axle upgrade as well with a lock out hub and stronger bearing then the JK offers. The JK ball joints and unit bearings will become a maintence issue as they are not made to handle the stress of big tires. Ton axles will also give you larger brakes.

Building for show is easy if you don't care how it drives or performs, building to go the the trail and back requires a lot more work. Personally after doing the work to run 40's (mine is kinda extreme) I would recommend anyone with a JK to max the tire size to 35" with a 2" lift and buy or build a buggy for the hard trails. A buggy will not have the limits of the JK and when you roll it you can typically flip it back over and continue on the trail.

Some build info here:
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post #22 of 25 Old 04-26-2016, 12:41 PM
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It is really going to come down to what you want.
You can go with a lcog build and do like planman suggests in his post or you can go 6"+ where the jeep is over the tires and you don't have to do so much cutting. Does he want a bolt on solution or is a custom or semi custom set up doable? Are you concerned about articulation? lcog builds offer great handling and performance but make it tough to do long travel and you will typically have very limited up travel. One thing I don't agree with planman on is the wheel bs of 3.25". I see the need on a lcog build to be in the net 1.5" bs range to run a 40x13.5" tire which you can get there with the 3.25" bs and a set of 1.75" wheel adapters. No disrespect to planman and maybe his tires have a narrow section width. Wheel width will make a difference here as well so that may be the difference our thinking.

Are the 40's for show or are they for trail?
With a supercharged armored JKU on 40's he should be looking into at least a full float full width ton axle. This will require a different bolt pattern then the JK 5x5. I would recommend a front axle upgrade as well with a lock out hub and stronger bearing then the JK offers. The JK ball joints and unit bearings will become a maintence issue as they are not made to handle the stress of big tires. Ton axles will also give you larger brakes.

Building for show is easy if you don't care how it drives or performs, building to go the the trail and back requires a lot more work. Personally after doing the work to run 40's (mine is kinda extreme) I would recommend anyone with a JK to max the tire size to 35" with a 2" lift and buy or build a buggy for the hard trails. A buggy will not have the limits of the JK and when you roll it you can typically flip it back over and continue on the trail.

X2, although I was running 37's, to do it correctly was expensive, brakes/axles/housings/steering assist/lots of $$ in lift and brackets. And then lots of time in the garage wrenching on it. Would have been better do a minor lift and 35's. But then if you have $70 large have at it. We would all like to see pictures.

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post #23 of 25 Old 04-28-2016, 07:13 AM
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http://

40s with a RK 3 link x factor. Built Dynatrac axle front, rear is a built 44

Teachers Rule.
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post #24 of 25 Old 04-28-2016, 11:20 AM
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I am currently running 37's. I have a 2.5" Metal Cloak arm and steering setup, with AEV coils and shocks/bump stops. Soon as I get my 1 ton axle swap done, I'll be running 42's.

40's, on any stock Jeep axle, is asking for some very expensive trouble...
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post #25 of 25 Old 04-28-2016, 01:00 PM
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Ive seen heavily built 4 doors snap 60s on mild trails, and well built 2 doors run all over moab on modded axles and 37-40s. Driver makes the difference.

Teachers Rule.
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